Originally Posted by farmwalker
Ok, so I'm putting the oil pan on my 406 and I am trying to get this right before I put the engine in the car and have no room to do this over. Heres the deal... I have a melling m55HV (high volume) oil pump and a Milodon 7 qt. oil pan that measures 8 & 1/4 inchs deep. I have a pick-up tube but when I measure the clearence, I have 1/16 to 3/16 of an inch clearence. The way that I measure the clearence is, I tape a drill bit of what ever size to the pick-up and put some greese on the drill bit, then put the pan on and see if there is any greese in the bottom of the pan when I take it off. What I am wondering is what should the clearence be from the oil pick-up tube to the pan?
Thanks for all the input!
1/4 to 3/8ths should work fine. The common way of measuring the thickness is from the shield portion of the pickup head with a lump of kids play clay. Put it together, take it apart and measure the compressed thickness. Make sure to clean up anything that got into the inlet pipe.
It's a mighty good idea on this pump (which I like a lot) is to drill the bolt heads that hold the pickup to the pump and tightly safety wire them together.
The problem you'll have with the 25 percent increase in volume with this pump is either or both the following:
1) Lots of oil in the windage, a very good tray with a lot of louvers or a screen will go a long way in getting the oil off the crank and cylinder walls (that floods the rings and makes an oil hungry engine) back into the pan. An oil scraper is a must on the right side (passenger side American) of the pan to catch the fly off oil from the crank, trap it and let it flow back into the sump.
2) The excess volume has to be vented or it results in too much pressure, this is the job of the oil pump's relief valve. This oil is rerouted back to the inlet side of the pump. This gets it heated up and foamed pretty good. There is no simple solution to this, just letting you know. The solution is complicated if you wish to pursue it, itís taking the pump apart, tapping and plugging the hole that connects the relief return back to the intake side and making damn sure the work is smooth so the shuttle valve can't hang up. Then making a sheet metal baffle to catch the bypass from the now open outer passage hole to catch and redirect the bypass oil away from the crank and into the sump. This isn't absolutely necessary for a street engine, but is a benefit for a competition engine.