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Old 07-15-2008, 05:34 PM
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Oil on plugs, What do I check for?

Hello guys I had a rebuilt 350 chevy with a 4.00 bore along with a hydraullic roller cam. Have bouble springs on heads with all matched valvetrain for my cam. When the motor was put together last summer it only had about 5000 miles on it and I did not need to have it bored over and I had the cylinders deglazed for new moly rings.

The clearance for the rings was around .020 give or take a little. I had a hydraullic roller cam put in so did not have to brake in the cam. It was started up and timing set and runed for a little say about 10 min or so but not the normal 20 minutes or so.

It was taken out after carb was tuned and my dad runned it up to around 6500rpm a few times to break in the rings. Well I have always had just a tad bit of oil on my spark plugs on the far back threads where they start.

The plug is dry on the insulator and at the end of the threads and not fowled out or anything and they all look the same kind of a little bit of soot on the ends but I have a comp big mutha thumpr cam with a lot of overlap on it so I have always had that look with big cams.

I have yet to try a compression test but last summer I was told to take it out and bring the rpm's up to around 4000 rpm then just let off of the gas to help finish breaking in the rings. Did that about 20 times or so.

I had a different type of valve seals put on and they told me at the machine shop that they are more oriented for street motors to allow a little bit of oil for your valve guides but not too much. Dont know what kind they are but I used to use the ones with the rings on top but they did not allow enough of oil onto my guides and had to have them all replaced on my heads and I did not even get many miles out of them.

So I don't know is this normal for plug to be like that with big camed motors with double pumper carb? I will have to rent a compression gauge to check the compression to see if rings sealed ok. I am just wondering on what to check and try to figure out whats causing this. I do have a pcv hookup so no problems there that I am aware of.

Thanks for any clues.
Eric

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Old 07-15-2008, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric32
Hello guys I had a rebuilt 350 chevy with a 4.00 bore along with a hydraullic roller cam. Have bouble springs on heads with all matched valvetrain for my cam. When the motor was put together last summer it only had about 5000 miles on it and I did not need to have it bored over and I had the cylinders deglazed for new moly rings.

The clearance for the rings was around .020 give or take a little. I had a hydraullic roller cam put in so did not have to brake in the cam. It was started up and timing set and runed for a little say about 10 min or so but not the normal 20 minutes or so.

It was taken out after carb was tuned and my dad runned it up to around 6500rpm a few times to break in the rings. Well I have always had just a tad bit of oil on my spark plugs on the far back threads where they start.

The plug is dry on the insulator and at the end of the threads and not fowled out or anything and they all look the same kind of a little bit of soot on the ends but I have a comp big mutha thumpr cam with a lot of overlap on it so I have always had that look with big cams.

I have yet to try a compression test but last summer I was told to take it out and bring the rpm's up to around 4000 rpm then just let off of the gas to help finish breaking in the rings. Did that about 20 times or so.

I had a different type of valve seals put on and they told me at the machine shop that they are more oriented for street motors to allow a little bit of oil for your valve guides but not too much. Dont know what kind they are but I used to use the ones with the rings on top but they did not allow enough of oil onto my guides and had to have them all replaced on my heads and I did not even get many miles out of them.

So I don't know is this normal for plug to be like that with big camed motors with double pumper carb? I will have to rent a compression gauge to check the compression to see if rings sealed ok. I am just wondering on what to check and try to figure out whats causing this. I do have a pcv hookup so no problems there that I am aware of.

Thanks for any clues.
Eric
What sort of weight motor oil are you using?
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:14 PM
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sounds like it is fuel not oil, is the carb jetted properly?

sam-missle
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
they all look the same kind of a little bit of soot on the ends
sounds like the carb is a little rich to me.
Have a look at this on spark plug reading
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Old 07-16-2008, 03:16 PM
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Well it lookds like oil and feels like oil not gas. It does not have a fuel smell on the plugs. I did ask my dad last night and he thinks they stuck viton valve seals on my dart heads. As far as what jets I have on my quick fuel carb here is my specs on motor first. 350 chevy 9.6 compression, Edelbrock air gap rpm performer intake, Dart iron eagle 200cc fully ported heads, Comp big thumpr cam hydraullic roller 246/250@50 with 537/517 lift. TRW forged flat top pistons. Scat forged 4340 rods with a Scat cast steel crank. HEI with 50,000 volt coil and high performance cap rotor and springs. What color springs I don't know. Advance timing is around 36 degrees mechanical and I do have vaccume advance hooked up.


Here are my carb specs. Quick fuel Q series 650 mechanical secondary, Primary jets 72, secondary jet 80 with extensions, PV primary 45, PV secondary plugged, primary and secondary nozzle 33,acc pump 30cc, Idle air bleeds.070 , High speed bleeds .031, that is all I have on the carb specs. I don't think its burning to rich as to when I put it into gear it quicks on me at idle anyways. i called Quickfuel yesterday they said to turn al the idle metering control screws 1/4 of a turn cause right now its too lean once in gear. Hope that helps.
Thanks
Eric
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Old 07-16-2008, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric32
Well it lookds like oil and feels like oil not gas. It does not have a fuel smell on the plugs. I did ask my dad last night and he thinks they stuck viton valve seals on my dart heads. As far as what jets I have on my quick fuel carb here is my specs on motor first. 350 chevy 9.6 compression, Edelbrock air gap rpm performer intake, Dart iron eagle 200cc fully ported heads, Comp big thumpr cam hydraullic roller 246/250@50 with 537/517 lift. TRW forged flat top pistons. Scat forged 4340 rods with a Scat cast steel crank. HEI with 50,000 volt coil and high performance cap rotor and springs. What color springs I don't know. Advance timing is around 36 degrees mechanical and I do have vaccume advance hooked up.


Here are my carb specs. Quick fuel Q series 650 mechanical secondary, Primary jets 72, secondary jet 80 with extensions, PV primary 45, PV secondary plugged, primary and secondary nozzle 33,acc pump 30cc, Idle air bleeds.070 , High speed bleeds .031, that is all I have on the carb specs. I don't think its burning to rich as to when I put it into gear it quicks on me at idle anyways. i called Quickfuel yesterday they said to turn al the idle metering control screws 1/4 of a turn cause right now its too lean once in gear. Hope that helps.
Thanks

Eric
What weight of motor oil are you running in your motor? On my motor if I run any lighter than 20w-50 then it leaks past certain areas that it shouldn't. I have an old 351W block that is been rebuilt a few times with .060" over pistons. So I use the Valvoline racing VR-1 20w-50 and no problems!
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:06 PM
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Sorry about not posting what oil I use. I use Valvoline 10w40 conventional oil. I am going to switch to syntech blend once I have more miles on the motor maybe. I have yet to use a thicker oil such as 20w50 but I am not apposed to using it but I don't like the thought of my oil having to take a bunch of time to travel through my engine to warm up and some times when i take it out when its cold out. I live in Ohio so weather plays part on what I use. I like my oil to get through fast espically since it idles at 1200 rpm and I don't just get in and drive I give some time for my oil to warm up and the parts to get to operating temperature at 2000 rpm. I know most people get in start it up and drive but I am old fashioned and like to warm it up before I take it out and get the rpm's up and load on the motor.

Eric
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Old 07-16-2008, 05:57 PM
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With the overlap of your "big thumpr cam", reversion becomes a big problem
at idle/low RPM. The excess residual dilutes the fresh charge causing the flame
speed to slow down, the result is incomplete combustion and excess liquid
fuel in the cylinder (that's what you are seeing on the plug threads). With poor
combustion there's not enough heat in the cylinder to evaporate all of the
fuel and burn it all in time. A quick fix is to run the engine at WOT under load
for a few seconds to build heat and clean it out.

Some of the more common fixes are to increase the idle speed a few hundred
RPM or to add ignition advance by limiting the centrifugal and increasing the
initial to get the total back where you want it. Lean out the idle circuits as
much as you can with out causing poor low RPM performance.
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