Earlier Tech Post- Not FORD Specific
-MELLING TECH TIPS-
Originally Posted by Gene Neal 10-26-2003
Well, I would start with a manual gauge. Look along the side of the engine block and you well find a plug that goes in to the oil passage (make sure it is the oil and not the water passage) If you can't find one remove the oil sender unite and screw a flex line into it and attach a pressure gage (0 to 60 lbs.) to the other end. start the engine and check the oil pressure in this manner. You know at idle and then reve it up to say 1500 rpm. and so on. If the oil pressure is more to the liking or it has a big deference, then may be the sending unit is bad. Also it could have a small chip from the overhaul in it. And that would make for a faulty reading.
Here are a few other thing that I seen happen: New Short block and OLD oil pan. When the old engine let go it knocked the baffle plat lose in the oil pan. So they welded it back in place before they reinstalled it. After reinstalling the engine it would have oil pressure at idle and then when you revved it up and held it there for a very short time the oil pressure would full to almost 0! After about third. R/R of the oil pan they discovered that the baffle would hold the floating oil sump up when installed, just at the top of the oil level. At idle it would get enough oil to show pressure on the gauge, But at high RPM's. it couldn't keep up and showed a very low to 0 oil pressure.
This one was almost the same thing but it had a fixed oil sump pipe and screen. They somehow had bent the oil sump pipe up just enough that it would not pick up the oil and so it had 0 oil pressure. Someone said DID YOU PUT ENOUGH OIL in it? The answer ----Y! but then he put two more quarts of oil in the crank case, and it had real good pressure.
Any way just thought I would shear them with you. Check it out never know what will work! -------------------Gene Neal
You need to take a oil pressure reading at the filter boss (QUALITY MECHANICAL GAUGE) as this will read the actual oil pump output. The boss at the rear of the block is after the oil has gone through all the passages/bearings/lifter bores.
Have you contacted FORD RACING TECH?