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Old 06-29-2009, 07:11 PM
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Oil Pressure Question

All right, my sb chevy 383 stroker is ready to fire. I tried to prime the oil pump with a drill, spinning clockwise, and was seeing no oil come up thru the pushrods or anywhere that I could see thru the breather hole in the valve covers. The oil pressure gauge did not move when I turned the drill, so I installed a new gauge. The new gauge shows pressure, but does not drop to zero when I release the drill. Also, there is still no oil that I can see coming from the rockers etc. I also have a non bypass type adapter on the oil filter, could this be causing the problem? What's going on, and I'm praying to the Gods that be, that I don't have to yank this motor out!!

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...okeyfiremedic/

Thanks in advance,

Smokey

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Old 06-29-2009, 07:29 PM
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Sometimes it takes some time to get the oil pump to prime. I always put some heavy assembly lube, or bearing grease in the pump, if I am not going to be starting it up for awhile.

I take it you are using an old distributor, or a oil pump primer tool.
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:16 PM
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Yup, using a Moroso oil pump primer tool to spin the pump. I forget the reasoning but I was told NOT to pack the pump with grease, maybe because it is a high volume pump. Tomorrow I am going to get a mechanical pressure gauge to be sur eof things, just not real comfy with firing this thing up tonite!
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:07 AM
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Try turning the crank a quarter turn, then prime it. Some oil holes may not be lining up...
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Old 06-30-2009, 08:05 AM
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turn the crank a few degrees every few minutes while priming
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokey626
Yup, using a Moroso oil pump primer tool to spin the pump.
Below are two photos of oil pump priming tools. The one WITHOUT the collar is a Moroso.

To get oil to both sides of the block and into the pushrods you need to use the oil pump priming tool WITH the collar. Without the collar the oil will just get into one head and then flow back into the pan when it gets to the distributor hole. The collar has a groove in it to direct the oil around the collar and into the oil passage at the opposite side and then into the rest of the block, heads, pushrods, etc..

An easy method to do this without purchasing an oil pump priming tool is to modify an old distributor so that you can drive the shaft with your electric drill motor. The distributor housing will enable the oil to flow correctly.

You might also remove the valve covers when priming the oil pump to enable you to better view the oil coming out of the ends of the pushrods. At the RPM's of most electric drill motors, the oil will just dribble out.
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Last edited by Frisco; 06-30-2009 at 09:07 AM.
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Old 06-30-2009, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokey626
All right, my sb chevy 383 stroker is ready to fire. I tried to prime the oil pump with a drill, spinning clockwise, and was seeing no oil come up thru the pushrods or anywhere that I could see thru the breather hole in the valve covers. The oil pressure gauge did not move when I turned the drill, so I installed a new gauge. The new gauge shows pressure, but does not drop to zero when I release the drill. Also, there is still no oil that I can see coming from the rockers etc. I also have a non bypass type adapter on the oil filter, could this be causing the problem? What's going on, and I'm praying to the Gods that be, that I don't have to yank this motor out!!

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...okeyfiremedic/

Thanks in advance,

Smokey
Typical with hydraulic lifters, they have a metering valve that only allows oil to pass when the lifter is being cycled by the cam lobes. Turning the engine by hand might let a little pass, but consider that even at idle the internal lifter valve is cycling 250 times a minute for a 500 rpm idle, that's hard to duplicate with a wrench on the crank bolt.

Bogie
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Old 06-30-2009, 02:32 PM
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Thanks bunches Frisco, the one without the collar is what I have, I will pick up one with the collar just cause I love tools as much as my car! The motor is very tight, I can't turn it with a wrench unless I pull the plugs out, and if you look at the pics, they are a B**CH to get out and then back in!

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...okeyfiremedic/

Smokey
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Old 06-30-2009, 03:00 PM
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I did not know they sold one without the collar, and the only engine I think it would work on, would be a 3.8L Buick V6, with the oil pump in the timing cover.
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokey626
Thanks bunches Frisco, the one without the collar is what I have, I will pick up one with the collar just cause I love tools as much as my car! The motor is very tight, I can't turn it with a wrench unless I pull the plugs out, and if you look at the pics, they are a B**CH to get out and then back in!

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...okeyfiremedic/

Smokey
You are welcome. I had already looked at the photo album of your truck. Nice!!!

I prefer to prime the oil pump while the engine is still on the stand and just before installing it in the vehicle. Everything is easier to get to at that time.

You may get tired of the noisy gear drive. It is a popular addition though.

ENJOY!!!
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:16 AM
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Hi,
Don't put heavy grease or assembly lube in your oil pump before priming, use Vaseline,
Vaseline will dissolve in the oil, unlike the two mentioned previously.
Rich
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richard stewart 3rd
Hi,
Don't put heavy grease or assembly lube in your oil pump before priming, use Vaseline,
Vaseline will dissolve in the oil, unlike the two mentioned previously.
Rich
Hey Rich,

I agree Vaseline is an option, but I have no other need for it around my shop.

My preferred packing is Michigan Bearing Guard assembly fluid. If I am low on it bearing grease works just fine.

I disagree with you about it not dissolving with the oil. It will in the oil filter when the engine is up to complete operating temperature during the break-in procedure.

I have never had any adverse side effects, or failures, using either one.

Stephen
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Old 07-01-2009, 01:06 PM
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I've never used anything in the oil pumps of the engines I've built. They all have pulled oil and show pressure on a gage within seconds of spinning the pump drive shaft.
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Old 07-01-2009, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
I've never used anything in the oil pumps of the engines I've built. They all have pulled oil and show pressure on a gage within seconds of spinning the pump drive shaft.

I only 'pack' the oil pump when I know it will not be started for awhile. I prefer to have something in the oil pump to help prevent gaulding on startup, after it has sat for more than 3 weeks.

My reasoning is to fill the air gaps in the pump for a real quick prime.

I built 2 engines for a race team, and the spare did not get used all season. It was then installed as the primary race engine the following year.
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Old 07-01-2009, 01:29 PM
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Hi,
This is a picture of an oil pan from an engine that was rebuilt
(383) then detonation caused me to have to rebuild it again, it is not one of mine, I did it for a guy on this board, when I pulled the pan well you can see whats in there, molly lube, the grease & other stuff if your lucky will stay in the filter & be
discarded after running a short time, I personally don't use anything in the pump, I just prime it & it picks up oil almost immediately


http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/da..._s_383_098.jpg
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