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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2013, 09:21 PM
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well I guess I had my facts straight ,, the button I was referring to is just a temporary swith to prime the carb if it has ben sitting for extended time or maybe just ran out of gas ,it is not to be used each time you start it,just as a bypass ,but if tour manufacturer recommend something different I would probably use their advice ,,mine is hooked up llike I stated ,because if mine sits for a while it also leaks back and it takes a few minutes to fill my carbs
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2013, 09:30 PM
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Trying to get a clear picture.....

"Second one is connected to the ignition."
Is this wire connected to the coil? if so that's your problem.

"Third one is power from the ignition switch that activates the solenoid."
Is this wire going to the ing switch? This is the wire you need to hook to.

Here's the issue..... when the NC terminal is tied to the "I" terminal on the solenoid, it will provide juice in start.... the pump runs etc.... when the key returns to the run position, the solenoid disengages and the "I" terminal is isolated from the start function and pwr from the solenoid and the pump should not run......... except that the wire that runs from the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid to the pos post on the coil...... and there is a wire that runs from the ing switch to the pos post on the coil that supplies the coil with pwr in the run position...... result: feedback from the ing switch in the run position to the pos post on the coil, which is connected to the "I" terminal on the solenoid, which is connected to the NC terminal on the oil switch.

Solution: switch the oil press switch wire from the "I" terminal to the "S" terminal on the solenoid.

Last edited by EOD Guy; 05-23-2013 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 05-24-2013, 07:35 AM
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You have it correct. The lead to the oil pressure switch is connected to the terminal on the solenoid that goes to the coil, and that is where the feedback occurs. When I switch to the other terminal, I get feedback through the oil pressure switch once the car starts and oil pressure builds up that keeps the starter spinning with the key in the "on" position. This is a far more serious consequence and that is why I chose the I terminal.
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:32 AM
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elec fuel pump

use a bypas switch,hide it under dash. 2 reasons 1 use for a primer if vehicle not used for a long time between runs. 2 easy to inst use a push buton switch. 1 wire to ign,1 wire to run side of oil pres switch.

another way is use a older ford solinoid,2nd terminal was for full 12 volts to coil when solinoid engaged,when ign back to run no curent goes to the terminal.

BY pas is the best solution. cliff
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:48 AM
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Cliff, the bypass switch is a good idea and I will add one. I am using the older Ford solenoid and I get feedback from the ignition circuit to that 12 volt terminal that causes the pump to run in the ignition switch "on" position regardless of oil pressure, thereby defeating the reason for the switch.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2013, 09:14 AM
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This will help
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:52 AM
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lg1969, thanks for the diagram. That is the way I have the fuel pump wired, including the relay. My problem is with the connections to the oil sending switch. I cannot hook up the switch as described by Holley without getting feedback from my ignition system that defeats the purpose of the switch.
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:59 AM
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EOD Guy, after re-reading some of your earlier posts on how the oil pressure switch works, I am beginning to think that I have a defective switch. As I understand it, when oil pressure builds, the switch activates the "no" connection and deactivates the "nc" connection. If that occurs, then I should not get feedback through the switch to the "s" terminal on the solenoid that activates the starter. I will try to check the operation of my switch.
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:12 PM
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Problem Solved

I tapped on the side of the oil pressure switch and I was able to connect the "s" terminal from the solenoid - the one directly from the start position on the ignition switch to the "nc" post on the oil pressure switch and got no feed back when oil pressure built up. Must have been stuck. Everything is working as it should and the car starts & runs great, at least for now. I also put in the under dash primer switch just in case.

Thanks to EOD Guy and all the others who responded and helped me out. Glad I found this forum. You guys are the greatest.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2013, 06:00 PM
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Glad to help. You have proven once again what a well placed whack will do! I don't use a primer switch...... but I do keep a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end. My thought..... if the pressure switch ever goes south, I'll place the jumper on the common and NO terminals on the oil switch.
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:01 PM
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starter solenoid

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bird57 View Post
I tapped on the side of the oil pressure switch and I was able to connect the "s" terminal from the solenoid - the one directly from the start position on the ignition switch to the "nc" post on the oil pressure switch and got no feed back when oil pressure built up. Must have been stuck. Everything is working as it should and the car starts & runs great, at least for now. I also put in the under dash primer switch just in case.

Thanks to EOD Guy and all the others who responded and helped me out. Glad I found this forum. You guys are the greatest.
if you use the 12volt solenoid ther ar 2 small terminals1 is toactuate thr switch,the other is to feed 12volts to coil,once engin starts ant ign is to run position ther is no more voltage to the coll via the solenoid,coil gets power threw the egn and the the resistor at a lower voltage
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