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Old 10-30-2012, 09:48 AM
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I use Melling high volume pumps for all my Chevy builds, and nothing but Brad Penn straight 30 wt. breakin oil for new engines. I can watch the pressure come up, but I don't hear or feel the drill motor change on my Porter Cable drill.

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Old 10-30-2012, 10:01 AM
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prelube

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Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
I use Melling high volume pumps for all my Chevy builds, and nothing but Brad Penn straight 30 wt. breakin oil for new engines. I can watch the pressure come up, but I don't hear or feel the drill motor change on my Porter Cable drill.
toured the cat engine plant wher they build and test 200 engines pr shift,they pump in warm engine oil warm watter (30wt oil) start up give 1 or 2 min then take full power for 10 min, remove and paint .send to customer. along the assembly line i saw only standerd engine oil aplied to brgs etc as *** line moved. so in my opinion,put it together corectly,prelube and run. cliff
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:23 AM
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IMO the benefit in using a bearing assembly lube is when the engine won't be started right away. The thicker viscosity of the assembly lube keeps the lube in place longer than motor oil.

But I agree w/cliff that there have been a ton of engines started up w/o any damage after priming using nothing more than motor oil on the bearings at assembly.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:25 AM
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Honestly the first option for priming oil in a engine is to pressure fill it.They aren't that hard to build.If you build enough engines it is well worth it. We haven't built one yet,but do need to go that route.The test stands at the Chevy engine plant fills the engines that way.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:51 PM
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priming

I was priming and I got it up to 55, 60lbs of oil pressure after about 45 seconds. I heard I should do it for at least 2 minutes? I don't want to go to long because of wash off of bearings etc. Just like some of u talked about. Advise, thanks as always, Dana
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:08 PM
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That sounds right on for oil pressure. Over priming would wash away the pre lube but not unless you really go to town pumping oil. If you immediately put in the distributor and fire it after priming, oil will be there and it should establish pressure instantly when started. Without priming it takes a few nerve wracking seconds to register. Then rev it between 2000 and 2500 for about 25 minutes. Change oil, run softly for a whole tank of gas, dont let it low idle or drop below 20psi oil. If it does, oil is too thin or clearances are too big, or pump is going bad. After this nice long cruise, change oil again. Now it is fully broke in and ready for anything, but I still go soft for atliest another tank. This is coming from the hillbilly who dosnt prime oil but this procedure worked for me every build though. Lucas additive and stp zinc are youre friends.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:32 PM
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pre lube

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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
IMO the benefit in using a bearing assembly lube is when the engine won't be started right away. The thicker viscosity of the assembly lube keeps the lube in place longer than motor oil.

But I agree w/cliff that there have been a ton of engines started up w/o any damage after priming using nothing more than motor oil on the bearings at assembly.
think about what happens,you pre lube try starting your engine,it will have full oil supply even on the starter,so even if timeing is out stop correct ,you have full oilpresure within several revolutions.there is nothing wrong with assem lube,but i have witnesed to much of gresy over lay and no prelube the oil pump has to pump oil past the heavey greaslike material.which can delay it from primeing,oil pump must push air out of galleries be for it can pick up oil.any ways we are beating this to death,we wind up doing what we think works best. cliff
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