Originally Posted by cliff tate
pre lube when you are ready to fire up,at that time pre lube until tou get oil pressure and feal the releaf vave and see oil toall rockers,then lite her up,i use no grease or heavey oil on brgs just cover cam lobes with what is supplyed with new cam,it wont wash off till engine is running and warm,as cam lobes get lub from splash so prelube never reaches the cam lobes
Yeah,but after 17 Super gas cars in twenty yrs(we where flip selling them)and then my suggestion being reinforced by a Engine Builder Mag article,I think my suggestion is on solid grounds.
Alternative Method to Pre-Oiling Tip
I respectfully disagree with the published tip on how to properly prime a new engine’s oiling system. Employing the method depicted will not only pre-oil the engine but, more importantly, it will serve to wash off all or most of the assembly lube that we carefully apply during engine assembly. We spend about $60 per gallon for assembly lube and we prefer that it remains where we put it for the initial startup. The label says, “Clevite 77 Bearing Guard is specially formulated with an extreme pressure rating to provide proper lubrication for internal engine components during assembly and the first crucial moments of operation on startup.”
I believe that continued priming after the oil pump is primed, the oil filter is filled and the main galleys are filled, will only serve to dilute and wash away the assembly lube from all the bearings and valve train. Leakage around the lifter bores will also wash away or dilute the cam lube on the lobes, lifter faces and bodies, causing increased likelihood of cam/lifter destruction of flat tappet cams upon startup. We feel that the assembly lube will do its designated task of keeping the engine internals lubed properly until full oil pressure and volume are attained.
Our preferred method and the method we instruct our customers to use for pre-oiling is as follows: Before filling the oil pan with the prescribed amount of oil, plus an extra quart for the filter and any cam break-in additive, premix additives into the oil in a clean container before putting the oil into the engine. The additive should be in the oil at the first instant of startup, not waiting until it mixes in the pan later, possibly leaving critical areas without protection.
With Chevy style oiling galleries, use an empty distributor housing or a commercially sold timing tool to seal the lifter galley on the passenger side before priming. Insert the priming tool, spin it, and you will feel it spin freely until the pump picks up oil and drags down the drill motor. (You prelubed the pump with bearing prelube before installing it, didn’t you?) Now continue spinning the tool. When you feel the priming motor drag down again, the oil filter is filling.
Now the critical part. When the drill motor is dragged down for the third time that indicates that the oil filter is full and the main oil galleries are also full. Now, Stop priming the engine. Any further priming will only wash off the prelube. I prefer allowing small bubbles of air in the galleries to washing off the prelube!
We didn’t come up with this priming method by accident. We assembled a long block and primed it for several minutes using the accepted method of the day. We then removed the oil pan and found only small traces of the assembly lube remaining on the bearings. Much of the assembly lube was also washed from the pushrod ends. We have been employing our current priming method and recommending it to our customers on all engines that we machine and manufacture for over 25 years with no problems.
There may be assembly lubes on the market that are for assembly only and that don’t contain extreme pressure additives, but I can’t think of a reason to use one. When in doubt, read the label or contact the manufacturer. There is more than one way to accomplish anything, but this method works for us.
Originally Posted by 1971BB427
I've never had even a 3/8" battery drive motor slow down while priming an engine. I would simply have someone watch the oil pressure gauge, and also have the valve covers off to watch for pressure to come up, and oil at the rockers.
And considering the correct priming tool is less than $19 at Summit, I wouldn't take the time to tear a old Chevy distributor apart to build one. I use mine not only for priming, but also for indexing the distributor and oil pump shaft. I filed a noth in the top of my priming tool to match the bottom of the tool, so I can move the oil pump shaft and see where it's pointed by the notch in the priming tool.
Summit Racing® Oil Pump Primers SUM-901010 - SummitRacing.com
Worked at the Tonn,NY Chevy Engine plant as a engine tester and also in the dyno rm.TDC on number one the oil driveshaft slot is front to back straight.
Might it be the oil pumps your using is the reason why your not feeling the drill slow down??.