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Old 10-27-2012, 06:56 AM
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oil priming?

I have a newly rebuilt motor (350). I have the dist out ready to prime. I filled my oil filter and my other 4 qrts of oil, it wouldn't be a problem pouring it down the dist hole would it? Also how long should I wait till I start with my drill to prime? TIA, Dana

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Old 10-27-2012, 07:22 AM
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Yes, pouring it down the distributor "hole" is okay.

You can begin priming immediately. Make sure you have the correct priming tool. A Chevy needs a distributor housing "in place" to be sure both lifter galleries are primed. "Real" priming tools have the sleeve that simulates this.

Jim
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:44 AM
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pre lube

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Originally Posted by Mr. P-Body View Post
Yes, pouring it down the distributor "hole" is okay.

You can begin priming immediately. Make sure you have the correct priming tool. A Chevy needs a distributor housing "in place" to be sure both lifter galleries are primed. "Real" priming tools have the sleeve that simulates this.

Jim
take a old chev distributor. and cut off the lower portion,slid it over your tool,or use the shaft from the old dist,cut it off just below the advanc unit. grind the gear teeth off so it turns free of cam gear. be sure to clean you new tool be for use now you have a primer thatworks and lend to your frends,for a beer or other favour.we retirees have lots of tim short of cash cliff
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 39chevy View Post
I have a newly rebuilt motor (350). I have the dist out ready to prime. I filled my oil filter and my other 4 qrts of oil, it wouldn't be a problem pouring it down the dist hole would it? Also how long should I wait till I start with my drill to prime? TIA, Dana
The tool used is shown below. The red arrow is pointing to the part that connects the two lifter oil galleys on the Chevy V8.

Click on image for details of priming the oiling system of your engine.

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Old 10-27-2012, 09:35 AM
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Prime until the 1/2" drill motor slows down some.You don't want to over prime it washing out the break-in lube.
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:23 PM
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pre lube

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Originally Posted by 1Gary View Post
Prime until the 1/2" drill motor slows down some.You don't want to over prime it washing out the break-in lube.
pre lube when you are ready to fire up,at that time pre lube until tou get oil pressure and feal the releaf vave and see oil toall rockers,then lite her up,i use no grease or heavey oil on brgs just cover cam lobes with what is supplyed with new cam,it wont wash off till engine is running and warm,as cam lobes get lub from splash so prelube never reaches the cam lobes
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Gary View Post
Prime until the 1/2" drill motor slows down some.You don't want to over prime it washing out the break-in lube.
I've never had even a 3/8" battery drive motor slow down while priming an engine. I would simply have someone watch the oil pressure gauge, and also have the valve covers off to watch for pressure to come up, and oil at the rockers.

And considering the correct priming tool is less than $19 at Summit, I wouldn't take the time to tear a old Chevy distributor apart to build one. I use mine not only for priming, but also for indexing the distributor and oil pump shaft. I filed a noth in the top of my priming tool to match the bottom of the tool, so I can move the oil pump shaft and see where it's pointed by the notch in the priming tool.
Summit Racing® Oil Pump Primers SUM-901010 - SummitRacing.com
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
I filed a notch in the top of my priming tool to match the bottom of the tool, so I can move the oil pump shaft and see where it's pointed by the notch in the priming tool.
See, I learn something new every day. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 10-29-2012, 04:29 PM
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Don't what kind of oil you're using but you must have one helluva cordless 3/8 drill. I can sure feel my 1/2" corded drill slow down and start working when the oil pump primes and starts pumping. Every engine I've done feels the same way, takes a lot of torque to pump cold 30 wt. through an engine.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:03 PM
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Same here- the drill torques over in your hand as soon as the pump primes, like within 5 seconds of starting the drill. Definitely noticeable although nowhere near stalling it or anything like that, even w/a 3/8" drill.

BTW, the priming tool from Summit? ~ $26 to my door. Takes a few days to reach you, as opposed to taking an old distributor and converting it for $0.00 and 15 minutes. Just sayin'.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:19 PM
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Very slick trick, indexing the priming tool! Thanks! I'm going to go mark the top of mine now.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:41 PM
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Reg. the priming tool....x2, here's mine....cost $00. And even though it isn't a tight fit it works just fine in my big Cad
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 327NUT View Post
Reg. the priming tool....x2, here's mine....cost $00. And even though it isn't a tight fit it works just fine in my big Cad


Not to mention Summit doesn't carry a priming tool for the Cad, and I don't know anyone else who does, either.
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Old 10-29-2012, 08:28 PM
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I found that filling the oil filter and oil sump is plenty good enough. My 454 has seen 5 cams so far, and not because of them wearing out. There should be good pre lube on everything that moves anyhow, especially the cam, lifters, rockers, bearings, pistons, pushrod tips, etc. After the first 5 seconds oil pressure will jump to life anyhow and read 70 or more. I know, priming cant hurt, but Ive never seen a part covered in thick lube already, fail because it went 5 seconds without pressurized oil.
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Old 10-30-2012, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by cliff tate View Post
pre lube when you are ready to fire up,at that time pre lube until tou get oil pressure and feal the releaf vave and see oil toall rockers,then lite her up,i use no grease or heavey oil on brgs just cover cam lobes with what is supplyed with new cam,it wont wash off till engine is running and warm,as cam lobes get lub from splash so prelube never reaches the cam lobes
Yeah,but after 17 Super gas cars in twenty yrs(we where flip selling them)and then my suggestion being reinforced by a Engine Builder Mag article,I think my suggestion is on solid grounds.

Alternative Method to Pre-Oiling Tip
I respectfully disagree with the published tip on how to properly prime a new engine’s oiling system. Employing the method depicted will not only pre-oil the engine but, more importantly, it will serve to wash off all or most of the assembly lube that we carefully apply during engine assembly. We spend about $60 per gallon for assembly lube and we prefer that it remains where we put it for the initial startup. The label says, “Clevite 77 Bearing Guard is specially formulated with an extreme pressure rating to provide proper lubrication for internal engine components during assembly and the first crucial moments of operation on startup.”

I believe that continued priming after the oil pump is primed, the oil filter is filled and the main galleys are filled, will only serve to dilute and wash away the assembly lube from all the bearings and valve train. Leakage around the lifter bores will also wash away or dilute the cam lube on the lobes, lifter faces and bodies, causing increased likelihood of cam/lifter destruction of flat tappet cams upon startup. We feel that the assembly lube will do its designated task of keeping the engine internals lubed properly until full oil pressure and volume are attained.

Our preferred method and the method we instruct our customers to use for pre-oiling is as follows: Before filling the oil pan with the prescribed amount of oil, plus an extra quart for the filter and any cam break-in additive, premix additives into the oil in a clean container before putting the oil into the engine. The additive should be in the oil at the first instant of startup, not waiting until it mixes in the pan later, possibly leaving critical areas without protection.

With Chevy style oiling galleries, use an empty distributor housing or a commercially sold timing tool to seal the lifter galley on the passenger side before priming. Insert the priming tool, spin it, and you will feel it spin freely until the pump picks up oil and drags down the drill motor. (You prelubed the pump with bearing prelube before installing it, didn’t you?) Now continue spinning the tool. When you feel the priming motor drag down again, the oil filter is filling.

Now the critical part. When the drill motor is dragged down for the third time that indicates that the oil filter is full and the main oil galleries are also full. Now, Stop priming the engine. Any further priming will only wash off the prelube. I prefer allowing small bubbles of air in the galleries to washing off the prelube!

We didn’t come up with this priming method by accident. We assembled a long block and primed it for several minutes using the accepted method of the day. We then removed the oil pan and found only small traces of the assembly lube remaining on the bearings. Much of the assembly lube was also washed from the pushrod ends. We have been employing our current priming method and recommending it to our customers on all engines that we machine and manufacture for over 25 years with no problems.

There may be assembly lubes on the market that are for assembly only and that don’t contain extreme pressure additives, but I can’t think of a reason to use one. When in doubt, read the label or contact the manufacturer. There is more than one way to accomplish anything, but this method works for us.

Timm Jurinche

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Originally Posted by 1971BB427 View Post
I've never had even a 3/8" battery drive motor slow down while priming an engine. I would simply have someone watch the oil pressure gauge, and also have the valve covers off to watch for pressure to come up, and oil at the rockers.

And considering the correct priming tool is less than $19 at Summit, I wouldn't take the time to tear a old Chevy distributor apart to build one. I use mine not only for priming, but also for indexing the distributor and oil pump shaft. I filed a noth in the top of my priming tool to match the bottom of the tool, so I can move the oil pump shaft and see where it's pointed by the notch in the priming tool.
Summit Racing® Oil Pump Primers SUM-901010 - SummitRacing.com
Worked at the Tonn,NY Chevy Engine plant as a engine tester and also in the dyno rm.TDC on number one the oil driveshaft slot is front to back straight.

Might it be the oil pumps your using is the reason why your not feeling the drill slow down??.
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