Oil smells like gas 85 Impala - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:09 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: chicago
Posts: 48
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Oil smells like gas 85 Impala

Hey guys, I have a 85 Impala with a 305 and cc-qjet. I recently changed my oil about a week ago because it smelled like gas, and now it smells like gas again just not as strong as before.

I have an innovate a/f gauge that's reading around 15 so I know its not too rich. I also replaced a leaking mechanical fuel pump with the airtex brand for 16$.

What would cause the gas to mix with my oil?

Thanks,
Clint

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:14 PM
delawarebill's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: delaware
Posts: 1,237
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 62 Times in 62 Posts
fuel n oil don't mix well

well u really only have 2 places.. either the new pump is no good or your carb is leaking down and running into manif and into cyl and past the rings.. a pain, but maybe a compression test might say something..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:41 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: chicago
Posts: 48
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the reply
I actually did a compression test about 2 weeks ago and the whole driver side was the same @ 135psi and the passenger side was @135psi except #2 was 140.

I also can hear a faint drip right when I shut the car off, could the float bowl leak that fast after I turn the car off?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 12:45 PM
boothboy's Avatar
More bucks, go faster!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grass Valley, CA.
Posts: 591
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 164
Thanked 258 Times in 232 Posts
Q-jets are notorious for the well plugs leaking. Get the engine hot, remove the air cleaner, shut down the engine, hold the throttle full open and wait. After a little while you'll probably see a white vapor cloud coming from the carb. Leaking well plugs. Time for a rebuild.A lot of mechanics epoxy the existing well plugs but I never had any luck. They always leaked again. Here is where you can get o-ringed replacement plugs. Call them with your carb #. There is two sized plugs.
Carburetor Parts for Rochester Quadrajet, 4G, 2G & Carter AFB, AVS, Thermo-Quad Carburetors
Attached Images
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to boothboy For This Useful Post:
85impala (07-26-2012)
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:07 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: chicago
Posts: 48
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
Q-jets are notorious for the well plugs leaking. Get the engine hot, remove the air cleaner, shut down the engine, hold the throttle full open and wait. After a little while you'll probably see a white vapor cloud coming from the carb. Leaking well plugs. Time for a rebuild.A lot of mechanics epoxy the existing well plugs but I never had any luck. They always leaked again. Here is where you can get o-ringed replacement plugs. Call them with your carb #. There is two sized plugs.
Carburetor Parts for Rochester Quadrajet, 4G, 2G & Carter AFB, AVS, Thermo-Quad Carburetors
Wow thanks for the info, I'll try that soon and post back here with my results.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:20 PM
DoubleVision's Avatar
Not Considered a Senior Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Heart Of Dixie
Age: 40
Posts: 10,655
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 59 Times in 56 Posts
More than likely it's the fuel pump. While yes Quadrajets do leak down the majority of it evaporates when it hits the hot intake so not much makes it into the oil. In my experience in almost every case it's the fuel pump.
When you replace the pump make sure you pack the pump cavity with moly or break in lube, this will assure the pump is lubed and will do so until oil can make it's way down to the pump. After you change pumps you'll have to change the oil and filter again as if you leave it then it won't be long before it'll cause excessive wear and it'll be rebuild time.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:29 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: chicago
Posts: 48
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision View Post
More than likely it's the fuel pump. While yes Quadrajets do leak down the majority of it evaporates when it hits the hot intake so not much makes it into the oil. In my experience in almost every case it's the fuel pump.
When you replace the pump make sure you pack the pump cavity with moly or break in lube, this will assure the pump is lubed and will do so until oil can make it's way down to the pump. After you change pumps you'll have to change the oil and filter again as if you leave it then it won't be long before it'll cause excessive wear and it'll be rebuild time.
Cool, is there anyway to see if its the fuel pump?
Maybe unhook the inlet and wait for a drip?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 02:08 PM
DoubleVision's Avatar
Not Considered a Senior Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Heart Of Dixie
Age: 40
Posts: 10,655
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 59 Times in 56 Posts
Not really, when the fuel pump gets ruptured it just drains down and follows the curves into the oil pan. It cost about $15 for a new fuel pump so even if I'm wrong and I don't think I am your still not out much by replacing it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to DoubleVision For This Useful Post:
85impala (07-26-2012)
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 02:16 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: chicago
Posts: 48
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ok cool thanks for the help
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 11:44 PM
cobalt327's Avatar
WFO
 
Last wiki edit: Intake manifold
Last journal entry: 1980 Malibu Wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Atlanta
Age: 59
Posts: 5,037
Wiki Edits: 1616

Thanks: 128
Thanked 597 Times in 546 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85impala View Post
Wow thanks for the info, I'll try that soon and post back here with my results.
The newer Q-jets almost never leak at the well plugs. If they ARE leaking, the engine will either take a lot of cranking before it starts or will start then immediately stall until it's cranked or run enough for the float bowl to refill.

Below is what epoxy looks like after a brief exposure to gasoline. Marine Tex epoxy is supposed to last better but I've never used it to say first hand, and there are several types- Ruggles has info on Marine Tex if you ever wanted to try it (click on image for article on rebuilding a Q-jet):


And here's those cheesy little pads the rebuild kits include, before and after being installed for a while. Utterly useless:


The method that has the best track record for staying fixed (no rubber o-rings or epoxy) is to tap the plug holes for a threaded plug as shown below:



There's a chance the fuel pump diaphragm is bad as DV said. Or that the fuel pressure is too high (you need ~4-5 psi). There's also a chance the needle and seat isn't shutting off the flow. Or that the float has become fuel logged and that is causing the float level to be too high. One thing that will sometimes help is to use a carb filter (the one that's inside the fuel inlet housing that the fuel line attaches to) with the spring loaded check valve on it, not the type w/o the check valve- either will fit.

In any event, if the carb is allowing fuel to get into the engine when it's shut off, I'd want to be real sure this wasn't also happening as you are driving- if it is, the excess fuel will wash the oil from the cylinder walls and that leads to rapid ring and bore wear. You might want to pull a couple plugs to check them for having black dry deposits- meaning a too-rich mixture.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to cobalt327 For This Useful Post:
85impala (07-27-2012)
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2012, 11:54 PM
DoubleVision's Avatar
Not Considered a Senior Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Heart Of Dixie
Age: 40
Posts: 10,655
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 15
Thanked 59 Times in 56 Posts
I just took the SMI Quadrajet back off my truck's 4.3 V6 so I could fix the main wells. All I did was the same as I always do, remove the base plate and give each one a good smack with a hammer. Then I'll lay the carb on top of a bucket, fill the bowl with fuel then peek in to see if any fuel is dripping out. In every case I've did this thus far it's solved the problem. The SMI Quadrajet I have had the main wells epoxied but they still leaked so I used a wire brush to remove it then gave'em a smack with a hammer to seal them off.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to DoubleVision For This Useful Post:
85impala (07-27-2012)
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2012, 11:26 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: chicago
Posts: 48
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
The newer Q-jets almost never leak at the well plugs. If they ARE leaking, the engine will either take a lot of cranking before it starts or will start then immediately stall until it's cranked or run enough for the float bowl to refill.

Below is what epoxy looks like after a brief exposure to gasoline. Marine Tex epoxy is supposed to last better but I've never used it to say first hand, and there are several types- Ruggles has info on Marine Tex if you ever wanted to try it (click on image for article on rebuilding a Q-jet):


And here's those cheesy little pads the rebuild kits include, before and after being installed for a while. Utterly useless:


The method that has the best track record for staying fixed (no rubber o-rings or epoxy) is to tap the plug holes for a threaded plug as shown below:



There's a chance the fuel pump diaphragm is bad as DV said. Or that the fuel pressure is too high (you need ~4-5 psi). There's also a chance the needle and seat isn't shutting off the flow. Or that the float has become fuel logged and that is causing the float level to be too high. One thing that will sometimes help is to use a carb filter (the one that's inside the fuel inlet housing that the fuel line attaches to) with the spring loaded check valve on it, not the type w/o the check valve- either will fit.

In any event, if the carb is allowing fuel to get into the engine when it's shut off, I'd want to be real sure this wasn't also happening as you are driving- if it is, the excess fuel will wash the oil from the cylinder walls and that leads to rapid ring and bore wear. You might want to pull a couple plugs to check them for having black dry deposits- meaning a too-rich mixture.
Thanks, all that info helps greatly.
Im almost positive its not happening while its running because the air fuel ratio gauge is around 14>15 so almost all the fuel is being burned.

The car does crank for a little while before it wants to start, I hit the gas a little and it fires right up so I'm thinking its the float, those plugs or the pump.

I haven't had a chance to check anything out yet but hopefully I'll get a chance today
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2012, 11:30 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: chicago
Posts: 48
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision View Post
I just took the SMI Quadrajet back off my truck's 4.3 V6 so I could fix the main wells. All I did was the same as I always do, remove the base plate and give each one a good smack with a hammer. Then I'll lay the carb on top of a bucket, fill the bowl with fuel then peek in to see if any fuel is dripping out. In every case I've did this thus far it's solved the problem. The SMI Quadrajet I have had the main wells epoxied but they still leaked so I used a wire brush to remove it then gave'em a smack with a hammer to seal them off.
That's a few good ideas
Thanks I'll definitely try that
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2012, 02:28 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: chicago
Posts: 48
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Ok so I have a 86 olds cc-qjet I found in the garage, I'm going to do a quick rebuild, make sure everything is sealed up real nice then grab a banjo inlet and switch out the base plates because the throttle linkage is different.

Hopefully this will work but it's going to be a week or so before the banjo inlet and air horn gasket arrive in the mail
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2012, 03:26 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: chicago
Posts: 48
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 16
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I got everything in the mail and switched the carb.. when I pulled the carb the intake seemed dry and so did the fuel line and inlet. What was weird is the float bowl was dry and the needle was seated but I could still blow a tiny tiny bit of air through the inlet.(on the old carb)

Now I have to do an oil change and bend the fuel line so it can reach the banjo inlet

Thanks again everybody for all your help, I'll update soon once she's running
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
smells like gas after acceleration 1964 Oldsmobile 442 Engine 5 06-07-2009 06:30 PM
Smells like gas powerrodsmike Engine 3 08-05-2006 09:22 AM
exhaust smells like gas toddtheodd Engine 10 05-14-2004 02:58 PM
89 chevy 350 oil smells like the oil under the main caps. Jared Engine 2 10-24-2003 07:21 AM
smells like gas mshellw Engine 12 07-26-2003 03:38 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.