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Old 07-10-2010, 05:08 PM
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Oil and temp gauge hook up?

I just bought my 66 El Camino and swapped motors from the 327 to a 454 and I am not sure about gauge hook up ? The car has after market oil pressure and water temp gauges that has sensors located in intake manifold and are electronic, however the 454 I believe the oil pressure was hooked up down where the oil filter is and used the tube type hook up ? Can I just cap the old line and buy a sensor the will fit the intake next to the dizzy ?

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Old 07-10-2010, 08:56 PM
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First of all, keep in mind that you HAVE to match sending units to guages.

If you're planning to continue to use the aftermarket guages, re-use the matching senders from the 327 into similar locations on the 454. If the thread on the sender is smaller than the hole, you can usually bush them up.

If you're planning to use the OEM instrument cluster guages or lights, order them to fit an engine that came installed in your vehicle. Some OE temp senders went into the cylinder head, and will read incorrectly (colder) if installed elsewhere, as they pick up a little extra from the influence of the exhaust.

If you want to add an additional mechanical oil pressure guage, you'll have to find another location, or add a tee. There is a plug at the front of the engine block on the driver's side for oil pressure.

Here's some pics:


This sender runs the OEM temp guage in the instrument panel. (C - N - H)

Oil Pressure Tee. Runs the factory idiot light as well as an aftermarket mechanical guage. I tee'd here because it's convenient and accessible.

Temp - Mechanical aftermarket guage. I expect the guage to read slightly hotter because of the exhaust influence.


Temp Switch - Dual (Cold Light / Hot Light)
I'm running forged pistons, and want a little reminder to let the engine come up to temp before putting a load on it. The hot light is, of course the typical "HEY ... check the dang guage!" reminder.

Guages and lights for everything. Just covering all of my bases!

Last edited by 66GMC; 07-10-2010 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 07-10-2010, 10:54 PM
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Thanks for pictures the top pic is exactly the same as small block has in front for temp and similar type in the back next to dizzy but has longer stem. I tried to remove and place on BB intake but surprisingly stem is to wide for intake ? I have a stealth intake so hoping I can find right one? Does brand matter in regards to gauge / sensor ?
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Old 07-11-2010, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckboy61
Thanks for pictures the top pic is exactly the same as small block has in front for temp and similar type in the back next to dizzy but has longer stem. I tried to remove and place on BB intake but surprisingly stem is to wide for intake ? I have a stealth intake so hoping I can find right one? Does brand matter in regards to gauge / sensor ?
I'm not sure I follow you when you say the "stem is to wide for intake". Can you shoot us a pic?

"Brand" doesn't matter so much as the type (light / guage) or the ohms resistance if we're working with a guage. Most electric guage senders usually have the resistance value stamped into them, and most temp switches have the temp that they "turn on" stamped into either the tip or the brass hex area. Some are also coded by the color of the insulator.



Line Code UNI
Part Number TS6469
Description Temperature Sender Gauge Switch
Product Features:Light & Gauge Type,Thread Size:1/2" x 14 NPT,Temperature Rating:72-88 Ohm Resistance At 220 Deg F

Here is the pic and specs for the temp sender designed for the factory guage on my 66.

=================================================

Line Code UNI
Part Number TS6625
Description Temperature Sender Light Switch
Product Features:Light & Gauge Type,Thread Size:1/2" x 14 NPT,Temperature Rating:TCS Terminal Off At 103 Deg F, "R" Terminal On At 243-263 Deg F

This is what is listed for the same truck with a light ... which surprises me actually. I wasn't aware that 66 GMC's even had a "cold light" option!
The specs were not given for the sender that I am really using, but I'd suspect that they'd be very similar.

Once you know what the specs are that you need, ask the parts counterman to show you the printed "Parts Illustrated Guide" which will show senders by type. All you need to do is to pick out ANY unit that has the right combination of resistance, pipe thread size, and hopefully ... electrical connector.

Of course the type of connector could be converted if necessary, and if the pipe thead is smaller than the hole in the intake ... you could use a brass bushing. (i.e 1/8" NPT to 1/2" NPT) The nit-picky best-case scenario is, of course, to find one with the correct thread so that the tip of the sender is right down into the coolant.
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Old 07-11-2010, 07:39 PM
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Tried to get info from senders but there trashed ! I could
make out VDO which matches gauge brand so I
think I will track back from gauges to compatible senders ? Thanks for info, since my intake will only have water temp opening I will look into getting sender for front side of BB ?
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:51 PM
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Have a look at these pics from Summit Racing.
I *think* they're what you're looking for.


VDO 360003 -- Oil Pressure Sender for Guage -- 0-80 PSI
It's 1/8" NPT, so you'll need to bush it up to 1/4 NPT to fit that hole in the block as pictured with my tee under the PS pump


VDO 323900 -- Temperature Sender for Guage (assumed 90 sweep) 0 - 250 F
This sender is also 1/8" NPT, but it does come with a set of 3 flush-mount bushings that are designed to maintain that proper depth that I had mentioned earlier.

HTH
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Old 07-11-2010, 10:04 PM
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Money ! Sweet is there any routing tips since pressure sender is close to headers
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Old 07-11-2010, 11:20 PM
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a couple of tips / suggestions ... "neat, tidy, reliable" mostly.

1.) Solder all wiring terminals, and heat shrink them. (Solderless connectors should be outlawed, IMO.)
2.) Keep the wires a couple of inches away from the headers.
3.) It's best to route them along with the rest of the engine wiring harness if possible, so that whoever (you, or someone else) will have just one path to follow.
4.) Wrap (or include) them in convoluted tubing or spiral loom to protect them from oil and abrasion.
5.) Secure the wiring loom with some of those nylon or steel/rubber loop retainers
6.) Make sure you leave a little slack to accomodate any engine movement (from torque), and you should be good to go.
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