I see in the GM assembly manual these things called "fillers". Over at the Goodguys I was able to see down into this area on a car and it looked like there were some dense foam pads at this spot. Is that all these "Filler" amount to, sort of a pad where the tack ("trim") strip screws to the body?
Next, it shows this measurement for the rear bow. It's extremely clear, 17 and 5/8 inches from the inside of the rolled edge on the rear bow to the center of the next bow. This is perfectly clear, make a stick that goes here to hold it and done deal, put the rear curtain in. That's how I see it at least.
But then they give this very elaborate directions for making a stick that would go there and it's adjustable! Why the heck would it need to be adjustable if this measurement is so defined and clear?
Trying to save money on a convertible top is a bad idea. Buy a good top and avoid the hassles that come with a cheap top. I have never used an ARO top, so I don't know if they're good or not.
By the way, I did find the header welt that was on my top, it had a piece of foam wrapped in vinyl. I am learning a lot on this top I'll tell you that! I am seriously going to be looking into getting myself a machine and trying my hand at the simply upholstery stuff.
I got my new top today and I am VERY happy with it. This is going to be much easier with the new top, I can see that right now.
When I pulled my top off there was some black cloth tape across the front of the header. And in the GM manual it says to put tape over the front of the pads. I am assuming this is to make an even transition from bow to pads. Is this what we are talking about?
That's probably a little overkill, but that will be fine. It's just to keep the top from rubbing on the metal header. You could also have glued some thin padding on to accomplish the same thing.
That's why I ask these stupid questions, overkill is MUCH better than not doing it good enough and it ruins an other wise perfect top. Understand I am perfectly clear that I may have a wrinkle or two that I can't get out or something but to put this top on and have some mistake where it tears or has some unsightly mistake that could easily have been avoided is what I don't want. I fully understand that it likely won't be perfect.
You don't give yourself enough credit, Brian. I bet it will be very, very good when you're done. You've made all the right moves, and asked all the right questions so far.
I am watching this project closely. Thanks for the tutorial. If Brian keeps asking questions and Dan keeps answeringh them the rest of us will learn something.
Ok, I had this image as I am out looking over this project how I would staple the curtain to the trim stick bolt it in but leave the bolts loose, way out from the body (they are an inch and a half long or so, that is correct right?) and then staple the curtain to the rear bow pulling it tight. Then when the trim stick bolts are tightened that rear curtain would be nice and taught. Well, in reading the GM manual they are saying to be sure to tighten that trim stick completely before stapling the curtain to the rear bow "Making sure all fullness has been drawn from the curtain assembly". I can't imagine being able to pull that curtain tight enough to make me happy, does it have to be pulled as tight as I am thinking or does that curtain need some a little "flop". I am picturing a drum skin, well I'm exaggerating a little but that is kinda what I was thinking.
I don't have any other cars to look at and this top has been off for so many years I forget how it was. But for that matter the top wasn't installed very nice so I don't know if I would want to go with how it was anyway.
So after that long winded question, in a nut shell does that rear curtain want to be real taught or not?
Brian, I am sure Dan will give you the authoritative answer but if I remember correctly that is why my buddy left the header bow up 6 or 8 inches when he stapled the curtain. When he raised the top that last 6 to,8 inches it pulled the final stretch into the curtain....I am only sharing what I think I remember and am definitely NOT the voice of experience.
The manual is right, you want the trim stick in place with the curtain stapled to it, and the bolts tightened before finishing the stapling of the curtain at the rear bow. You also want the frame locked down in front for this step. The rear curtain doesn't need to be as tight as a drum, but it should be good and snug. Just don't lose your bow height while you're doing the curtain. It's more important for the curtain to be snug side to side than it is from trim stick to rear bow.
Ok, here we go, I was getting ready to put the curtain in and double checked the bow height and found something odd. I had done a stupid thing when I set that height. I had put a big nylon tie to hold it from falling down and then put a tie down on each side pulling back on the bow to make it tight when I put the top pads on. The measurement I made wad in the middle, 20 1/2" off the rear moulding, and it ends up being exactly what the manual said to the second to the rear bow, perfect, or so I thought. My problem was one tie down was tighter than the other! So the bow was further ahead than the other though at the perfect 20 1/2" in the middle! CRAP!
I pulled the staples on the right side and found that it wanted to go back a little further. Anyway, I broke down and made the sticks to hold it just as the GM manual said, what an idea huh?
Ok, so here is my new dilemma. The center of the rear bow measures that magical 20 1/2" AND at each stick I get that perfect 17 5/8" from the manual, how beautiful is that. The problem is I still am getting different measurements of about 3/8" from side to side with the body. I am talking measuring from the edge of the door jamb to that piece of tape you see on the side of the rear bow. I marked it measuring up from the bolt so both sides are the same. I also measure from a point 15 inches from the end of that chrome moulding on the pinch weld right below those sticks and whether I measure from the moulding it's self or from below the moulding where the trim stick attaches I still get those same measurements though these may be even more than the 3/8" off.
It looks like the whole top is forward on one side that 3/8". The top fits perfect and goes up and down fine, is this 3/8" going to make a difference?
Let me make this clear, I don't think it will matter one bit. I can't imagine every guy who puts a top on making these measurements and being as anal as I am, but I have to ask being I am told over and over how important that 20 1/2" bow height is. :sweat:
I think I can get that pad on the right stapled back in though it isn't going to be over the top of the bow as much as it was being I brought that side of the bow back a little. I will also tighten up that left pad a little. What do you think?
You know what's funny Dan, I checked out the old top parts and that rear bow was further forward on the right side about a half inch! The bow raised up over the rear window on the right side.
By the way, there was one thing I went against your suggestion Dan. I decided to put the top well over the top of the trim stick stapling it on the back side as the factory did. I don't have a way to finish off the well nice sewing it or something so I decided to do as they did originally. This was a for sure once I saw a 65 LeMans the other day with a well screwed to the trim stick where you could see the trim stick. I figured I would fight with it over the top, what the heck I needed the experience right?
Well so far it ends up not being a big deal as you need to go in thru the trunk anyway to get to the bolts realistically anyway. At least I think I probably would have done that even with no well being it's nice and comfy laying in the trunk with a carpet pad as a pillow up by the pump motor. But anyway after removing it six or seven times it really isn't a big deal at all, I have gotten pretty good at it.
After I posted that I thought he might go postal, but hopefully he read the entire post.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Hot Rod Forum
2.2M posts
175.7K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to hot rod owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!