[DanTwoLakes]

BTW, my gun that shoots the T-50 staples sticks out of the nose of the gun at least that far also, so I wouldn't grind it off. I have been using pneumatic staple guns for over 40 years, and have never shimmed one or ground anything down on one. My advice is to turn down the air pressure to the gun.

[timothale]

I've built schools in California and there is a specification on how nails and staples have to be driven too deep breaks a top ply in shear rated walls, and staples in cabnet hangers. we always had to adjust drivers and air pressure.

[MARTINSR]

Thank you Dan, I think it may be a way to go as others have done it and it makes sense when you think about it. So I will make a decision based on what I find when I cut down the pressure. I have also heard (you may have said it) to simply not push down hard on the material when you hit the trigger. Typically when I have seen these tools used you are pushing material together with pressure on the gun down on the material when you pull the trigger. This is how I was doing it on those first few staples. I remember hearing some where to not put such pressure so the staple doesn't cut thru the material, do you do this?

I know I can go out and experiment and I will do that tonight, I am just trying to get more info on how you guys do it.

Here is a photo of a 65 Impala I took at the Goodguys. This is obviously a poor example but this is that header welt you have shown me? I am pretty sure my old top had the wire on up on the header as I remember. I will dig thru my old top stuff tonight but I think that is what they had. Never-the-less, I want to use that stuff you have shown me. I can put the top on and add that later when I get it in the mail right? That is going to go, last thing over the end of the header once the top is all stapled in, correct?

Brian

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by timothale

I've built schools in California and there is a specification on how nails and staples have to be driven too deep breaks a top ply in shear rated walls, and staples in cabnet hangers. we always had to adjust drivers and air pressure.

'


I thank you for your input as well, the more ideas the better. I am just sorting this all out and that does make sense as well. Like I said, I have some decisions to make.

Brian

[DanTwoLakes]

That is an absolutely awful header welt. It looks like it was done with windlace sponge rod. The plastic extrusion is far better and neater. Yes, it can be put on the very last thing.

I've never had a staple gun that cut through anything other than one layer of vinyl, and that was because I put too much pressure on it.

[MARTINSR]

I'll add a regulator to the gun and try some different techiques to work it out. It could also be the junk HF tool too. But I will work on reducing it. It really HITS and did tear thru a few layers on the top pad I did the other night. Luckly it had to be un-stapled and pulled a little tighter anyway. So I am at a fresh meat area to try it again.

Thanks so much for the help!

Brian

[John long]

I did go to HF and bought the same gun you did Brian and like yours it also sunk the staple way below the surface due to the plunger protruding so far out the tip. I took Timathales advise and ground the plunger tip. Did the trick. I used my 22 gauge Haubold staples in the gun because the staples I bought at HF won't even fit it. It shot 2 at a time but worked great. I will get the right staples when I get back out. 20 dollars well spent.

John L

[MARTINSR]

Well, I installed the pads tonight and I believe all went well. There is one thing that is reassuring and that is that the old top was done so damn bad and I enjoyed that car and wore out the top. I guess it won't be any worse and it worked out ok. I put a regulator on the hose and that seemed to make all the difference in the world. Worked like a charm for me.

Brian

[John long]

You have to be excited about getting started. Keep the pictures coming. I have a 63 corvair conv in my buddy's shed. Who knows, might drag it out someday. Lord knows it needs a top.

John

[MARTINSR]

Oh heck yeah I'm excited I feel like a bad ***.

Brian

[DanTwoLakes]

Brian: Did you get pads for the rear corners that go from the rear bow to the tack strip on both sides? These are called rear quarter pads, and your car may or may not have had them originally.

[MARTINSR]

Dan, you scared me as I started reading your post because I cut a lot off those pads (about a foot). But there was nothing on the old top (I know, I can't really go by what those guys did) and in the manual there is nothing ever mentioned about it.

Brian

[MARTINSR]

Ok, next stupid question. In the manual they say to tape over the top of the front header covering up the end of the top pads. When I pulled the old top off sure enough there was a black cloth like tape up there over that whole top of the header. Would duct tape be ok for this or should I hold out for some cloth like tape? I picked up some black duct tape but will wait until you ok it. I am thinking I really need to get the cloth stuff.

Brian

[MARTINSR]

I just went out there and started fooling with the rear curtain. I have came to the fact that there is no way I can use this top or the rear window. The window is terribly lumpy and the top has scratches all over the inside, I simply can't live with this as cheap a bugger as I am I have to buy a new top with rear window.

Brian

[MARTINSR]

By the way I picked up some 1/2 stainless staples for the rear bow and find that the old ones were only 3/8" but it wouldn't hurt to use 1/2" I can't imagine. That tack strip material in the rear bow is much thicker than the others I am thinking.

Brian