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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2012, 09:53 PM
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The manual is right, you want the trim stick in place with the curtain stapled to it, and the bolts tightened before finishing the stapling of the curtain at the rear bow. You also want the frame locked down in front for this step. The rear curtain doesn't need to be as tight as a drum, but it should be good and snug. Just don't lose your bow height while you're doing the curtain. It's more important for the curtain to be snug side to side than it is from trim stick to rear bow.

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2012, 10:28 PM
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Thanks so much Dan.

Brian
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2012, 12:57 AM
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Ok, here we go, I was getting ready to put the curtain in and double checked the bow height and found something odd. I had done a stupid thing when I set that height. I had put a big nylon tie to hold it from falling down and then put a tie down on each side pulling back on the bow to make it tight when I put the top pads on. The measurement I made wad in the middle, 20 1/2" off the rear moulding, and it ends up being exactly what the manual said to the second to the rear bow, perfect, or so I thought. My problem was one tie down was tighter than the other! So the bow was further ahead than the other though at the perfect 20 1/2" in the middle! CRAP!

I pulled the staples on the right side and found that it wanted to go back a little further. Anyway, I broke down and made the sticks to hold it just as the GM manual said, what an idea huh?

Ok, so here is my new dilemma. The center of the rear bow measures that magical 20 1/2" AND at each stick I get that perfect 17 5/8" from the manual, how beautiful is that. The problem is I still am getting different measurements of about 3/8" from side to side with the body. I am talking measuring from the edge of the door jamb to that piece of tape you see on the side of the rear bow. I marked it measuring up from the bolt so both sides are the same. I also measure from a point 15 inches from the end of that chrome moulding on the pinch weld right below those sticks and whether I measure from the moulding it's self or from below the moulding where the trim stick attaches I still get those same measurements though these may be even more than the 3/8" off.

It looks like the whole top is forward on one side that 3/8". The top fits perfect and goes up and down fine, is this 3/8" going to make a difference?

Let me make this clear, I don't think it will matter one bit. I can't imagine every guy who puts a top on making these measurements and being as anal as I am, but I have to ask being I am told over and over how important that 20 1/2" bow height is.

I think I can get that pad on the right stapled back in though it isn't going to be over the top of the bow as much as it was being I brought that side of the bow back a little. I will also tighten up that left pad a little. What do you think?

Brian


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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2012, 08:14 AM
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Your instincts are right on, Brian, it won't matter. If you need to adjust later you can, but it won't matter now.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2012, 08:51 AM
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Thanks Dan.

BRian
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2012, 10:05 PM
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Got the rear curtain in, WHOOO HOOO!! It's really coming out well thanks so much for the help!

Brian

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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2012, 10:06 PM
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You know what's funny Dan, I checked out the old top parts and that rear bow was further forward on the right side about a half inch! The bow raised up over the rear window on the right side.

Brian
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2012, 11:39 PM
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By the way, there was one thing I went against your suggestion Dan. I decided to put the top well over the top of the trim stick stapling it on the back side as the factory did. I don't have a way to finish off the well nice sewing it or something so I decided to do as they did originally. This was a for sure once I saw a 65 LeMans the other day with a well screwed to the trim stick where you could see the trim stick. I figured I would fight with it over the top, what the heck I needed the experience right?
Well so far it ends up not being a big deal as you need to go in thru the trunk anyway to get to the bolts realistically anyway. At least I think I probably would have done that even with no well being it's nice and comfy laying in the trunk with a carpet pad as a pillow up by the pump motor. But anyway after removing it six or seven times it really isn't a big deal at all, I have gotten pretty good at it.

Brian
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2012, 07:46 AM
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Brian: That is beautiful, but the zipper goes on the bottom..........


JUST KIDDING, it's perfect. It absolutely can't be done any better than that.
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Last edited by DanTwoLakes; 07-15-2012 at 08:44 AM.
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2012, 08:04 AM
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Be careful Dan. You will have him turning the car over.

John L.

It does look good doesn't it.
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2012, 08:42 AM
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After I posted that I thought he might go postal, but hopefully he read the entire post.
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2012, 11:48 AM
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Dan, you know me all too well. Ok, a story, you know you have to put up with a story when it comes to me. I was just trying to make a living with my little body shop and it wasn't easy being I am a horrible businessman. Anyway one day I was buffing out a car with my beautiful new expensive buffer and it stopped working. They had a recall sort of issue with the switch that they already had replaced for free. This cost me time and money and I was finally back to getting some work done. So there I am buffing when it stops, the damn thing stopped again! In my fit of anger (and I NEVER do this sort of stupid thing, mostly just yell obscenities) I turned around and BEAT it against the concrete wall that was next to me. Just one time, but during the swing in that direction I saw my heat lamp across the shop was out! I knew what this meant, a tripped breaker, but I couldn't stop my swing, it was in motion and slammed the buffer into the wall. I went and flipped the breaker and walked back to pickup the buffer and hit the switch, aaggggggggg was all it did, I had bent the armature. What a moron.

Brian
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2012, 11:49 AM
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Hey by the way I was asked on another thread about trimming off the extra stuff under the trim stick, there is no reason why you wouldn't do that right? It is hanging off down into the gutter I am thinking it should be cut off.

Brian
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2012, 12:12 PM
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Sure you can do that. It really isn't visible, and I wouldn't do it until you are sure you don't need to do any more adjustments, but you can trim it off then.
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2012, 12:17 PM
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After my re-adjusting the top pad after trimming it taught me a lesson. By the way, it isn't as perfect as it looks I did have to readjust the rear curtain up exposing a hole in the window above the trim stick! DARN IT, but I will be putting a small piece of thick clear plastic sticker over it to seal out any leaks.

Brian
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