[MARTINSR]

Next stupid questions.

This strip of material that goes across the top at bow behind the header goes into that bow and held with that strip of metal. Just how much of that strip of material should be caught in that strip of metal? Are we talking it needs to be buried in it with the excess hanging out the front of the metal strip? Or is just a half inch or so enough which seems like it would be, that strip is pressed in there sucked by the screws and I think if the material is caught at the back side of the metal strip and bow it should be good enough.

It seems like there is a little conflict between having the top back enough to fit at the rear and side flaps at the back of the quarter windows and forward enough to get a good bite on that material under the metal strip on that second bow. Sorry for the crappy photo I didn't see how bad it was until just now.



And I know we mentioned the zipper and just letting it hang but it seems that driving with the windows down and top up these zippers would be blowing all over damaging things. How do you keep them from doing that? Should they be stapled to the side trim sticks?



Thanks for all your help! From what the side rear corners look like before I staple it to the trim stick, I am guessing I will have the trim sticks out and re-adjusting those pieces and re-stapling about 62 times, yeah, I am thinking 62 times.

Brian

[DanTwoLakes]

Don't staple the ends of the zipper down. The zipper is a separating zipper, which means it's just like the zipper in your jacket. You can cut off some of the excess zipper on the end that is the opposite side of where you start zipping. You will need to put some stops on each side of the zipper tape to keep the zipper head from sliding off.

I can't tell what you're talking about in the first picture.

[Gringo]

Not sure what you are saying but I'll guess. That metal strip slides into that material and then is screwed down if it is a loop shaped piece. That lets it move back and forth a little. I wouldn't cut the zipper. I don't think they cause a problem. Hope this is what you are asking.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by Gringo

Not sure what you are saying but I'll guess. That metal strip slides into that material and then is screwed down if it is a loop shaped piece. That lets it move back and forth a little. I wouldn't cut the zipper. I don't think they cause a problem. Hope this is what you are asking.

Ahhhhh it's a loop? I will have to pull up one side of the top to install it! Damn this is one of those mistakes that could really screw you up. Luckily I haven't stapled or anything, only the side cables are holding the top right now.

I remember my top in the car this was torn off when I bought it so I don't know anything about it. A couple of convertibles I have looked at the top must have been installed and they had an ahh hah moment when they found that the strip of metal couldn't be installed because the loop was too far away from the bow top install it!

I will re-examine tonight. Thanks!

Brian

[DanTwoLakes]

Now I understand what you're talking about. It's supposed to be a pocket, and it should be no problem to push the metal strips in, no matter which stage you're at. You can always raise the top a little to put them in if you have to.

[MARTINSR]

Ok the rear valance has a double layer, I would think this double layer should be up over the rear bow to staple it thru that double layer. But then at the same time this sewn area looks like it should be at the end of the bow stapled so it can be hidden under the moulding. But they aren't lined up so is it simply staple it on the sewn area and the double layer of the valance simply goes below the rear bow and is not stapled thru?

[DanTwoLakes]

The double layer and that little seam at each end should be stapled to the rear bow, and then it will be covered by the wire-on. There will be little chrome tips to screw over the ends of the wire-on.

[MARTINSR]

I understand that but unless I am crazy, I will carefully look this morning, it looks like the double layer doesn't go up as high as the seam on each end.

Brian

[MARTINSR]

Well it's underway and not looking too good. It's looking a LOT better than I thought after pulling the trim stick out and repositioning the top about six or eight times. But It needs more and I am not certain if I will be able to get it much better, it seems kinda futile pulling it apart too many times more.

Brian

[John long]

Right now I know you are trying to remind yourself this is fun. Hang in there. Hopefully Dan can tell something from the picture. Do you have a picture from the bottom showing the relation to the dart sewn and the end of the double layer of material Brian?

John L

[MARTINSR]

I'll get one, I don't think that has anything to do with my problems. I do have that wrinkly mess right where the seam is sown that I was talking about at the top where the wire-on ends at, it's like I am going to have to gather some material and staple a placenta to hide under the wire-on tip. I stopped that project at about 5 last night and went to a house party at my sister-in-laws. We had a good time and now I walk up this morning with my back aching. That climbing in and out of the trunk and passenger compartment twenty times yesterday kicked my butt!

Brian

[John long]

I don't know much about tops but it looks to me like the dart sewn in the top should run to where the rear bow curves to go down. The top just doesn't look right to me. If that corner will not lay smooth, I don't see how the top can possibly go on wrinkle free. I know you have to be anxious for Dan to look at it.

John L

[MARTINSR]

By the way I know understand the importance of that rear bow location! I couldn't understand why it was such a big deal, NOW I understand! I figured that bow goes up and down, the top will fold up and down no matter if that bow was an inch forward or back, what is the big deal I thought. But you have NO ROOM for error being that second to the front how holds that loop of cloth on the underside of the top that limits where that top can go, that and the flaps at the quarter window rails that top simply has to be put in one very narrow area, VERY narrow, you have no room for error. The location of rear bow to the second bow is what is most important. The rear bow height is going to fall into place but that darn distance between the second and the last bow has GOT TO BE right on. When I went back and found that one side was down a little I corrected it and boy o boy am I glad I did! That little seam at sewn into the top at the end of the rear upper valance wouldn't have been anywhere near that bow! I would have to put the wire on below it, man would that have looked like crap. Actually I would have pulled it all off and done it over. But yes that is very critical.

Brian

[DanTwoLakes]

What does the opposite side look like? I assume it isn't as bad as the side pictured. It looks to me like the wrinkled side needs to be pulled tighter toward the front, but it's impossible to tell just from pictures.

Oh, BTW, that taking the trim stick off 8 times and trying again is why I don't staple the well on the back of the trim sticks. It just gets in the way. Is there a top installer anywhere near you, Brian? It may be worth your while to have a pro look at it.

[MARTINSR]

I haven't done the header yet so I can pull it a little forward. But this doesn't seem to matter on that rear side.

The other side is about the same Dan. I will keep plugging at it. You know the well really doesn't seem to get in the way at all. I thought it would bit it is no big deal at all coming from inside the trunk at least. If you were trying to do it from the interior oh heck yeah, that would be a bear. But from the trunk it really is no big deal.

Brian