Ok, here's the debate of the century: 383 or 400 chevy!! Cast your vote and reason - Page 7 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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View Poll Results: What's the better motor?
400 SBC 214 45.63%
383 SBC 160 34.12%
Bore your 383, get a 388 22 4.69%
They're equally good street motors 73 15.57%
Voters: 469. You may not vote on this poll

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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 406 ss monte
there's a big difference between a mountain motor, & a top fuel motor. that has nothing to do with a 383 v/s a 406. i said if the two motor's are built identical , the 406 will out power a 383, just because of the bigger bore, & the 26 more cubic inches. i'm not saying a 383 can't be built to out run a 400, hell you can do it with a 283, but look at how much harder the 283 will have to work to do it. cubic inches means power. i'm not saying the 406 would smoke the 383 if their built identical, but it would have around 15-20 foot pound's more torque, & about the same in horse power.

1 hp per cubic inch = 26 more horse power right off the top

I see what your saying, and I agree, to an extent, and to an extent your right, the old school 383's werent ideal, then the 5.7 rod 383 came about and changed everything...then you can take the 383 a step farther and add 6" rods...

and if you tell me a stock rod 400 will out run a 6" rod 383 built exactly the same you are mistaken, now if you add the 5.7 rods to the 400 against a 5.7 rod 383 I see your point...

so yes I am going to disagree to an extent because there is more than 1 383 as there is more than 1 400...whitch ones we are speaking of make's a world of difference...

even if the 383 gives up cubes to the 400 a light (er) weight roatating assembly will rev quicker, reach its power curve quicker, so yes I could build a 383 to out run a 400 even if the same heads, intake, cam, gear, stall, carb, ignition, etc..were used...

this was my whole point, and with a 283 giving up a 100 cubes to a 383 there is no comparison, a 283 just to make 350 hp would proboly need to turn 8G, and a 383 will twist to 7 easily, build correctly, and the 400? yeah, but the weight of the pistons makes it not so easy...now if you use pancake pistons in the 400 then you would have something, but then again, you know there is a real world difference between a 383 truck motor and a race motor...

the 406 is an awsome engine no doubt, but it cant nessasarily better the 383 in all aplications...

with the prices of 4340 rods, scat cranks, (or eagle) and forged pistons, in either case you'll have a winner...

if you talk factory stock heads, rods, cranks, etc..then the 400 will most likely better the 383, but......when you add some aftermarket beef into the equasion then you not talking the same 383, or 400 so like I said before flip a coin and be happy with your choice...

if you build a 383 build it with 5.7" rods for the street, 6" rods for the track...

If you build a 400 build it with 5.7 rods stay away from the 6" rods and small base circle cams, in this senerio you may be limmited to cam choice...

and if your dead set on a 400 and you want a serious engine I strongly suggest an aftermarket block, more cubes, raised cam location and the 400 style block that can take advantage of large displacement...

A 400 likes a 17-18 degree head, and will make serious power, big bore short stroke, perfect for high RPM power..

In factory trim? the 400 is a truck engine limmited, undervalved and not a high rpm engine, but It only takes a few wise choices and some quality parts to get a monster...

thats all I care to add to this thread and if you ask me whitch is better, Ill say, if I build it? or if you build it?...lol...2wld4u

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 07:31 PM
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very well said. you are right about everything you said. don't think i've been trashing the 383's, i'm fixen to built one of them too.
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 08:10 PM
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I think its kinda hilarious that this pole was pretty even for a while between votes for the 383 and 400, but now that people are talking the 400 up, all the bandwagon people immediately cast their 400 vote. My thanks to everbody who had an original opinion on the subject...

K
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
and if you tell me a stock rod 400 will out run a 6" rod 383 built exactly the same you are mistaken, now if you add the 5.7 rods to the 400 against a 5.7 rod 383 I see your point...
Just curious, why does it matter if you use the stock 5.565 rods vs. 5.7 rods, why would the 5.7 rods make more power. I did not think that they made more power just that it was easier on parts. I am building a 406 right now and I would be great to know because my stock rods are good, and I have heard that the stock rods don't do to bad!

5.565 Rods

more 5.565 rods used

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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 10:32 PM
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The pistons will dwell a TDC longer with a longer rod. Longer rods reduce cylinder side wall loading, meaning less wear. Longer rods are like using a longer breaker bar, more torque.

If you already have stock length rods just use those. It is not really worth the extra $$$ to use the 5.7s unless you start out with them in mind. I bought mine with a kit that didn't cost any more money to have 5.7 rods added. Therefore it was worth it.
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2004, 11:53 PM
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Hello

How much more torque would you exspect from a 5.565 rod to a 5.7 rod?

Thanks
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2004, 12:08 AM
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It is hard to say. I wouldn't guess more than 10 hp.
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2004, 12:19 AM
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400 sbc's don't like high RPM's. I've seen Meany 400's spin bearings. The 400 is a great motor for a 4 wheel drive truck, but I'd take a 383 Stroker for a hot rod any day !!!!!!!!
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2004, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by z3pr
400 sbc's don't like high RPM's. I've seen Meany 400's spin bearings. The 400 is a great motor for a 4 wheel drive truck, but I'd take a 383 Stroker for a hot rod any day !!!!!!!!

This is inacurate a 400sb is no more likely to spin bearings than a 383 (assuming the same rod lenth....)
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2004, 01:52 AM
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I guess I`ll get in on this, my vote goes to the 400.
We built a 400, with the stocker 5.565 rods, a used set of trw forged 12cc dished pistons, ported camel hump heads with stock valves, the cam was 234 244 duration, a dual plane intake, a holley 800cfm carb, headers, 2200 stall converter, Stock HEI. All this in a 1979 GMC high sierra 4x4 it has 3.08 gears and front and rear posi traction, we had ran the truck for years without racing it, then we got word of another mud race track opening up in the area, so we installed a 3000 stall converter, tuned it up and went that weekend, out of the 5 races we entered over the next months we took 1st place in 3 of those races and placed the in the other 2. the 400 made a pure believer out of me, stall it at the line and when the light goes green let it loose, when you have four 36 inch tall mud tires all break loose at the line says your making some serious torque, and it held it`s own at 6000 RPM also. For a friend we built a 4 bolt 400 with 6 inch rods, edelbrock heads, flat top KB pistons, victor Jr, MSD ignition, 850 holley, headers, 4:11 gears, 4000 stall, and a comp solid cam with 260 duration and 555 lift. it was set in a drag race S-10, it runs consistant 6.50`s in the 8th mile, it makes a little over 500 horses and it hasn`t had any problems with the mains and it`s in it`s second race season.
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2004, 03:03 AM
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I personally think the 5.565 versus the 5.700 rod issue is abit overblown. Look at it folks! the difference is only 135 THOUSANDS of an inch! about 1/8th inch length difference. You put each one up on an angle on the crank and tell me if you can tell one is at less of an angle than the other. And the at tdc time is almost negligable too. Chevy HiPerformance did a torgue test on 2 identical 400's one with 5.7 and the other 5.565 rods and they were virtually identical , if I remember right. The 5.565 rod is a strong rod too. just use a proper selection method if you have a choice. get the engine balanced, use arp bolts and you are solid!
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2004, 06:30 AM
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This has been discussed at length on the board. THe rod length difference does not make that much difference. The angle facilitates more dwell and a more complete burn, and is definately not worth spending money on for the world of street motors.

K
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2004, 10:06 AM
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the use of longer rods means you can uses a shorter compression height piston, and unless your using a BIG dome this = less roatating mass whitch= a faster reving more reliable (to an extent) engine...so if you actualy gain a few ponies just by going to a longer rod think of this as a bonus...

It would be like switching a cast iron flywheel to a billet aluminum one...

lighten up that 400's internal mass and you may get a big surprise...

so yes....imo its worth the few extra dollars....

I like the 6" rod 400 example, and is directly the DIRECTION Im pointing...

the stock rod 400 example although quite impressive isnt really a good example because a 4 banger can turn loose 4 big tires in the mud, holding the rpm like the 400 apparently did just proves that yes it runs...a 5.7 rod 400 in the same situation would have brought the RPM up quicker, and held it at its peak longer...

thats what a "long rod" is all about in reality, you get all those cubes that rev's quickly, no more having to chase down those quicker smaller inch motors, now you can come out with them, and suck the paint right off thier car on the big end too...

thats why when I build a serious 383 its sporting 6" rods...
and makes power to 7500

I hope this helps understand my point of view, Im certainly not the smartest guy in the universe and im often wrong more than Im right, so If I am mistaken please do enlighten me..

2wld4u

P.s, yes, I voted for the 400, I want to build one, and thats why I chose the 400, the 383 to me will always be the greatest sbc stroker...

the 400 is the meanest big inch small block to roll out of GM's factories..it could have been better and now it can be better..


Last edited by 2wld4u; 05-24-2004 at 12:17 PM.
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2004, 09:31 PM
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Yep,I like a longer one also,but you do reach a point where you compromise your ring landings too. In the whole picture, 50 more bucks for a set of 350 junk yard rods is a no brainer to me,you are getting different pistons anyway. By the way,I have seen a lot of stock 400 rod failures,bearings,bolts,etc. And by the way AcesOver8s,what makes you think a 427 with the same heads,cam,manifold,etc would have a hope against a 454? I find that odd.

Z3pr,they are the same stroke,its a cut down 400 crank,is friction your concern?

Last edited by rifraf; 05-25-2004 at 09:31 PM.
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2004, 09:41 PM
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Hello,

But with 5.7 rods, don't the rods hit the camshaft, and to deal with that, don't you have to get a small circle base cam? That is why I am looking to use the stock 400 rods because I am worried about that. The other reason that I am looking to use the stock rods is because of this kit.

400 kit
Part number FEM-MHP138-311

Take a look guys and tell me what you think

Thanks

Trent
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