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Old 07-16-2005, 08:28 PM
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Old Body, New Running Gear

I have a '47 Ford PU that I want to take the body off of and put it on a late model frame and running gear. Does anybody have any suggestions as to what frame would require the least modification to my body to make look good?
Right now, I am leaning towards an early '90s Dakota PU with a V8 engine, but I am flexible at this point.
I appreciate your input.

Tom

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Old 07-16-2005, 08:38 PM
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What fits?

you may be able to use that Dakota..a Ford Ranger chassis may work for you or an S-10 may work..

The concept is fine it is just finding one that suits you and that is close to the correct width and wheelbase for your truck..

So I would suggest spending some time at the local pick-a-part or wrecking yard with a tape measure to see which option may be the best for you..

OMT
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Old 07-17-2005, 07:22 AM
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here is what you do...

To measure your wheel base...get a buddy to hold one end of a long tape measure...have him hold the end of the tape at the 9 o'clock spot on the rear wheel...you go to the 9 o'clock spot on the front wheel and see what the wheel base is.....now you have an idea of what wheel base newer frame you can use on your PU.


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Old 07-18-2005, 12:27 AM
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Frame Swap under early Fords can mean paperwork problems

32-48 Ford Passenger cars and 32-47 Pickups are registered by the frame number (VIN number). If you do a frame swap you must be sure to either stamp the correct numbers into the new frame or cut that numbered portion of the old frame out and weld it into the new frame as if one piece in the proper location. Without proper VIN number per the paperwork you have you will be unable to sell the vehicle, and if stopped and inspected, unable to prove ownership, and may wave bye-bye as the state wrecker hauls your car away to an impound lot.
Pickups are most easily adaptable to the frame swap idea since the basic pickup frame has remained basically the same for decades. The most important things to verify are wheelbase (distance from center of front wheel to center of rear wheel) and tread width (distance from center of right wheel to center of left wheel).
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Old 07-18-2005, 05:02 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I really appreciate the help. Sure wasn't aware of the VIN numbers on the frame - thought it was the engine numbers they tracked!. Where are they generally located?

Also, I have been considering shortening the bed, so that would mean I can use a shorter wheelbase vehicle. Any suggestions?

Thanks for you assistance!!
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Old 07-18-2005, 06:36 AM
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the vin # on the frame should be on the top of the passenger side frame rail in the engine compartment. Closer to the radiator than the firewall. You may need a wire brush to find it.

Gary
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Old 07-20-2005, 01:54 AM
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Hey Tommy,

First, the guys are right, be aware of the VIN# issue, it could come back to bite you on the butt.

Second, as per your question on what frame to use, take a look at any year Chevy S-10. Wheelbases are: Shortbed...108", Longbed...117", ExtCab...122". Width is 31 " at the front to just under the body (16" back from the front axle centerline), and widens to 40 " all the way back. The frame is boxed from the front to just before the rear rise (rear end hump). It will sit about 6"-9" lower than your stock frame according to the engine and body you put on it. It comes stock with IFS, pwr steering, pwr brakes, front discs, and after 93 or 94 it comes with rear ABS.

I just finished putting one under my 52 F1. Adjusted it an inch here, an inch there, no frame cutting. With new mounts, my 327 Chevy and TH350 trans w/9" output shaft bolted right in, no drive shaft cutting.

Something to think about...
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Old 07-20-2005, 05:54 PM
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I believe the stock wheelbase of a 47 Ford pickup to 112 inches.

You could shorten a long bed S10 (117 inches) or........shorten your truck (shorten the bed and move it forward) so as to use a short bed truck (108 inches)

.
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Old 07-20-2005, 08:23 PM
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new wine in old skins

Just a thought, you might consider using an Aerostar front end, as its a bolt in job similar to used in Camaros and Novas. Then fabricate your own frame rails from the stub. This is how stock stub late model racing chassis are built, and since you arent going to be racing it on dirt, there are a lot of details you could delete from your construction. I would use 2 X 4 X1/8th inch boxed steel for the frame rails. Finish off with an 8.8 rear end from a 4 liter Ranger or Aerostar. Its a gutsy rearend and would handle about anything up to about 400 HP, or more.
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Old 07-21-2005, 02:51 PM
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yeah i was gonna say maybe the width of the frame would be more important to match up than the length. i dont know but if he put a F-1 on a S-10 maybe that is a good thing to look into but i know they are just about giving away Aerostar junkers as they are everywhere, but i thought they were all front wheel drives. guess not. we have a 62 ford around here that the guy said "bolted right up" to a 79 Bronco frame, but, like my rig, they were and are, both 4x4 vehicles. i think i would definitely look into that aerostar deal, then if that didn't work, the s-10. in fact, maybe i will look into the aerostar front, if it's true that it unbolts, and see if i can make it work on my 40 chevy towtruck. my frame rails are like 26" wide but inside my tires is like 50", so that rules out my 73 pontiac as a donor vehicle, it's 56" inside tire to tire and the frame rails are just rediculously wide.
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