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wireing delema
If you insist on keeping it mostly stock,look for a 6/12 battery and an alternator disguised as a genny. Run what you want on 6 volts,such as instruments amd guages,but everything else on 12 volts. Ignition switch should be 12 v and starter pedal will have to operate a spring loaded switch.Hope I haven`t confused you .I really enjoy helping fledgling rodders.
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Well, O.K., only I'm NOT a "fledgling rodder", I did get a chuckle out of that. Former Pro Bracket, then Super Comp drag racer, tri-fives since 67 (I've only had NINE 56 Chevrolets, plus a couple 55 and 57's), all my cars have been performance oriented, from a 70 340 Dart, to several Nova SS cars, a sleeper Nova wagon, 5.0 Mustang, even my truck has a stroker motor in it. My moniker, "junior stocker", is reflective of my current 56, a Sedan Delivery done up as a pseudo-Junior Stocker. Anyway, the 51 Chevrolet Business Coupe was supposed to be a simple, late 6 powered, stock trans/rear end, cruiser. But, my nephew wanted to do it up with a V-8 like his dad had in high school. I could'nt argue with that. The powertrain is done, and in the car; .030 over 350, R.V. type cam, a REAL Carter AFB (NOT an Edelbrock "copy"),one of my built Powerglide setups, 56 rear end with 4.88:1 Posi (from my collection). Trying to keep it looking stock AND old school, that's why the generator. But, this car has a simple wiring harness, ignition switch, separate starter switch, NO fuse block, recirculating type heater, no radio, no turn signals (were'nt required in 51); and I'm trying to patch together a workable solution that addresses the starter-HEI-electric choke, without making it look too modern. Anyway, I'll guess I'll have to take it directly off the ignition/starter switch (but it's not really a starter switch, just an on/off switch really-and then has a separate "starter" switch). I was looking for someone who has done the same sort of thing; maybe someone else will jump in. Thanks.
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should at least buy a new main harness, Chevsofthe40s.com sells reproductions... and add some glass fuses to a panel under the dash above the junction box that's there. to your main circuits, without them, the car could become a toaster quick.. other than that... you may be able to find a 12v Generator, and mod the regulator to work on 12v. otherwise, run a genernator.. I don't see why it wouldn't work that way
I have a '51 Fleetline, but mines stock 235/PG |
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Quote:
Although these cars don't have a fuse block, they do have inline fuses to protect those circuits; heater, lights, that sort of thing. The wiring harness is in great shape, so I'm using it, the wiring is also more than adequate to carry the 12 volt upgrade. Generator and regulator are already installed. This is a running car, that I have been using a jumper wire to hot wire start it. It's wired to start, with 12 volts coming directly off the ignition coil terminal of the starter solenoid. Of course, once the starter button is released (car started), it loses that 12 volts and dies. So, I guess I have to add another wire coming directly from the ignition switch. With the exception of the HEI, and later style Carter AFB with electric choke, this car looks right out of the early 1960's. I've posed this same question over on ChevyTalk.Org, of which I'm a member, and have'nt gotten the answer I'm looking for, yet. Thanks. |
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