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Old 07-11-2007, 12:01 AM
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old column mount turn signal

I have a 40 chevy panel with a 1975 250 six cyl.I put the complete wiring harness in it from a 1973 chevy pu.I'm using the stock 40 steering column and want to use an old Guide column mount turn signal.How do I wire it?It has a power wire going to a flasher which is connected signal box,then 2 wires coming out,1 red 1 black.Would I wire these to the right turn signal and left turn signal wires at the 73 chevy wiring connection that pluged into the 73 column originaly?Its the plug connection thats about 3 in long .Tom

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Old 07-11-2007, 06:46 AM
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Those add-on handles came in different styles. If you only have a single input and 2 output wires, that means it had a dedicated filiment at each corner of the truck, just for signals. The 73 column switch had 4 signal wires coming OUT. One for RF signal & indicator, One for LF signal & indicator, One for RR signal AND brake, One for LR Signal & brake.

If you had multiple inputs on that old switch; for a flasher plus brake lights, as well as more outputs, then it could work like most older cars & trucks that use a dual-use wire(s) going to LR & RR. That's so one bright filament can be used for brake AND signal on either side.

I'm thinking that you may be able to use one of those trailer wiring converter boxes that allow use of a trailer with a single double filament bulb on a car that has 3 seperate filaments for rear lights(signal, brake, & tail). See if Docvette has an idea to save the 73 rear harness. I don't have a converter box diagram here to look at, to help sort it out.
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:44 AM
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Ok,I do have another turn signal swicth with more wires I just like the look of the other one.This turn signal switch has 6 wires ,Red, Yellow, Lt Blue, Green Wstripe, Brown.The flasher on it says 6volt,can I just plug a 12 volt in?And do'es anybody know which color wire is for what?Thanks Tom
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Old 07-11-2007, 11:32 AM
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Don't worry about the 6v, as those 6v switches handled more amps than a 12 will need. Just swap to a 12v flasher.

I am a little confused by you saying it has a flasher "in it"?

Normally, the flasher is under the dash, and the output wire from the flasher goes into the switch.

Then there will be a wire that comes from the brake light switch that gets power when the brake is on.

Then the 4 others go to RF, LF, RR. & LR.

The 2 rear wires will be dual function; they will be brake lights, until the signal is applied, then that wire stops being a brake wire and turns to a blinking wire.

The 2 fronts will be single function, only making contact on one of those as the handle is turned to RT; the other of those 2 will get contact when you switch to Left. These front wires will also feed your dash indicator lamps.

You need to sit down with an ohmeter to test each wire combination to sort it out. I do have factory wire diagrams for the 73 truck that I should be able to get color codes when you get ready to hook the switch up, after you figure out the colors on it.

Just a guess, but try the red as if it was a brake feed, then see if if you show continuity from red to only 2 wires with the signal switch in center. Once you ID the real wire for brake feed then work on the signal feed; you should show cont. from the feed wire to no wires until you switch the handle and then just 2 will show cont. with that feed(and one of those 2 should also be one of the 2 that were cont. with brake feed.
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:28 PM
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Thanks F&J,I do have the wire schmatic for the 73.Before I read your second post I did a Ohm meter check on the old turn switch.But I just barely get by on my electrical.There is a flasher conected into the old turn signal unit.There is a blk wire coming out of this which I figure is ground.Hooked one end of ohm meter to this and the other to the other wires,one at a time....Green wire with it switched to RT on signal 0.01 ohms ,Blue RT 0.01 ohms ,Brown LT 0.01 ohms, Red LT 0.01 ohms,Yellow had no change on the meter no matter were the signal switch was moved.I'm going to assume that the Green and the red are my LR and RR, possibly .What would the Yellow be used for ,would this be the brake feed?I'll try the Yellow as brake feed. Hope you can understand this.
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:40 PM
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Let me think a while on the tests,.... but for now, I don't see a need for a factory ground wire unless the switch has 1 or 2 tiny indicator lamps on the body of it.
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:43 PM
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Can you see which wire feeds the flasher? It would be a big help to be able to positively ID the wire that feeds the flasher. Is it a two prong flasher or 3......3 would need a ground wire to make it work; 2 prong does not need a ground.
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:21 PM
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Its a 3 prong.Using the yellow as the feed From 2 wires I get a reading with the signaler centered on both and a reading from one of the wires when switched to the left. and the other switched to the right.This must be my LR and RR?But the other 2 wires no change.Could the Flasher itself be bad? How could I test it?
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:12 PM
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I opened up the turn signal,the Yellow wire has a jumper to the other end of the junction block that the wires connect to.
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Old 07-12-2007, 06:30 AM
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A flasher, when not in use, usually has continuity through 2 of the prongs.(the 3rd prong should be a ground) When the signal arm is turned, the "load" from the light bulbs causes a bimetallic set of points to heat up and open, then cool off when the bulbs go off, to close. (That's the clicking.)

By reading the last 2 posts; I think you have found the 2 rear wires, but the test results make me think that the yellow is the brake feed. I say that because you have cont. to both until you turn the signal on, and lose one side.

If it is the brake feed, then the front wires would have no power.

Keep testing to find the signal feed. The built-in flasher may be the problem if you just can't find a feed that makes cont. with 4 wires for all four corner lights.

How does this flasher attach?, is it a can type, plug-in like a 1960s-1970s car?

If it can be removed, figure out which wire is what on the 3 flasher wires. One would be a hot all the time, from key-ON, or fusepanel. One would be a ground. One would be the blinking feed to the signal contacts.

That blinking feed needs to be found to see if it has cont. to the 4 individual lights.
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Old 07-12-2007, 09:08 PM
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Doc here,

I am assuming you have an old stock turnsignal switch, SINGLE filament turnsignal bulb (NOT shared with the brake lamps..not enough wires..)

IS this a Vibra~Plex turnsignal?

The Logic flow..Power to base of flash unit..in run only....power OUT of flash unit in run only....Power to the center wiper of the turnsignal switch in run only.....then select a side LRear or Right Rear....Power to the other selected side.

THE FLASHER MUST be 12 volt standard duty, and all bulbs must be 12 volts..If you have 6 volters in there , that's why it is not working.

IF you find it flashes too slowly, add the front grill lamps to them (if park lamps you'll need to isolate with diodes) to add enough resistance to heat the flasher properly, as they are set up you 4 bulbs not two..

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Old 07-13-2007, 10:03 AM
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The flasher is a can type.And it doe'nt show any power at any of the 2 of 3 prongs.Using the Yellow ,I put power to this.Got power to the Brown and the LT Blue with the signal switch in neutral and power to each one when switched to left then right,must be RR and LR but nothing at the other two wires which have to be the LF and RF,these 2 wires when switching the signal show 0.00 volts at one time on the meter the other time shows 0.05 or so.The flasher does not blink or flash at all.But I also do not have any power at the flasher don't have any bulbs in the system so theres no load,this might be the reason.WENT to the wrecking yard to maybe get 1 out of a truck an label each wire as I pulled it out.But the one I got was in a 60-65 chevy truck and has a factory plug ,its a Yankee.The wire colors do look like stock .I'll keep at it.Thanks
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Old 07-13-2007, 11:03 AM
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Yes, a can type flasher won't cycle unless it has a load on it, such as 1 or 2 bulbs. HD flashers sometimes need more that 2 bulbs to blink.

On that junkyard Chevy pickup; 63 was the first year of a internally mounted signal switch. That 63 has a different wire color ID than the 64-66. The 60-62 did not have standard equipped signals unless it was dealer installed, and I believe those 60-62 did not have a color wire harness for signals (as part of the dash harness)...and the 63 was first year for that.

I've seen some 63-66 that had a aftermarket switch put on when the original internal one went bad.

The "factory" plug for signals on a 63-66 would be a curved plastic part, not a rectangle.
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Old 07-13-2007, 12:01 PM
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Doc here,

Check the fuse for turnsignals FIRST...

NEXT , go to the flasher base..with a DVOM, Set for DCV, V X 20 or higher, measure the base pins..with the KEY ON..only one will have power..note that pin..

Isolate the pin going to the Switch.

Place a light bulb on that wire and ground the socket..

IF it flashes slowly, or hangs on..the circuit to the switch is whole..

NEXT connect the CENTER WIPER of the turnsignal switch to that wire..(Yellow???)

NEXT PLACE a bulb on either the LR or RR wires and GROUND the socket..

IF the switch is good, the bulb will light on the selected side and slowly flash, Do the same test on the other side..IF it does not power up or flash..toss the switch , it's toast..

If it does work, isolate the FRONT corresponding wires, TAP a wire for Dash indicator from each and run to the front signal lamps.

Yankee was a Cheap replacement for signals on trucks and towing vehicles in the 60's and IS NOT a stock replacement item..

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Old 07-13-2007, 08:17 PM
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Thanks for your posts F&J and DOC.I'm still working on it.But heres a funny.Thought it might be easier to use the Yankee switch out of the old chev from the wrecking yard ,dont know exact year of but the switch has the half moon plugs ,thought I could just match up wires and.....one side starts flashing with the handle in the center,move the handle and....can't remember what it was doing now.Start looking at the wiring ,which is black tape wraped,on the old Yankee ,looks kinda fat in 2 places,like a garter snake swallowed a couple things.there is really only 4 wires coming out of the unit,not 7 like is at the other end. At the bulges yellow was spliced to yellow and blue,green spliced to green and dark blue,white spliced to dark blue, purple spliced to black.Do you think I said Bad words?
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