|
First you need to find out what "clip" you really have. Even if it is a stock Pinto-Must II. A novice would probably not get it right.
Back in the seventies, before Must II kits. I used to do the modified Pinto-Must II factory fronts. Cut and fit to old Ford frames and even a 1936 Hudson.
First problem is. Ford built the donor cars with thin sheetmetal front frame sections. To beef up an area they just spot welded more layers of sheet metal over the weak area. Then along comes Hotrodder and neatly trims most of this laminated rust/frame away. Leaving flimsy floppy front crossmember.
Next is mounting crossmember.. There is a factor called "anti-dive" calculated into factory piece when originally assembled. Also mounting the upper A frames in proper relationship to the main crossmember..Fabricating bolt/adjustment, mounts.
I rejoiced when the Must II kits came out. SAFER, heavier material and all the geometry worked out..
If you gotta go cheap.. Get the budget aftrmkt crossmember, the one with raw welds. Finish the welds yourself and use the stock Must II A arms and other items on the purchased crossmember.. You will be money WAAAAYYY ahead.. BEEN THERE!!!
EDIT= For larger rotors Use 78+ Malibu for 4 3/4 bolt pattern. Ford Granada or chrysler Volare rotors for 4 1/2" bolt pattern. You will have to swap around bearings but the right combination does come up.. Fabricate caliper mount or Speedway has different ready mades.
Last edited by BOBCRMAN@aol.com; 04-24-2010 at 05:35 PM.
|