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Old 05-21-2004, 05:21 PM
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Old undercoating, remove or no?

I'm trying to seal up the undercarriage and was wondering about old undercoating. I've pressure washed it and sandblasted the trouble spots, but a good bit of the undercoating is still on the car. I've removed some and it's still tacky and is hell to get off, not dried out or flaky and the sheet metal underneath is gleaming. Is there a reason to remove this? I was considering just painting over it with my new rubberized undercoating with the rest of the undercarriage.

Post your thoughts please,
Pencilneck

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Old 05-21-2004, 09:03 PM
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if your going to re-spray it anyway, i would just leave it and spray right over it with the new stuff.
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Old 05-21-2004, 09:13 PM
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That's the plan...

Yeah, I figured I'd ask before just to make sure nobody else had a negative experience with doing this.

Thanks for the reply,
Pencilneck
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Old 05-22-2004, 05:37 AM
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well i have had some negative experience leaving it on... some of the undercoating tends to get hard and water can pass through. when i removed the undercoating (OMG what a mess!!!) on the mustang i was supprised to find large areas with rust under the undercoating, especially in the wheel wells and arround the rear frame..

id spend the extra 2-3 days and do it right.... but if you arent in a costal area like me you might not have corrosion under there...
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Old 05-23-2004, 02:22 PM
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Truth hurts...

Yeah, I guess better safe than sorry. I live in Louisiana, but I'm pretty far inland so salty air isn't a problem. You're right, I just needed someone to force me to do it.

Thanks for the posts,
Pencilneck
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Old 05-23-2004, 02:57 PM
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good luck, ive had luck with a small blowtorch and a scraper... but have also tried wire wheel on angle grinder (the mother of all mess makers!! ) and when i was almost finished i tried to shear some paint stripper on and it seemed to soften it right up, and make much less of a mess.

but you'll have to take a wire wheel to the old seam sealer and paint the underside with por15, epoxy primer or similar. and remember to re-seal all seams with polyurethane based sealer.

when you do the same to the inside if the bottom of the stang, be very generous with the sound deadener, and you'll really hear the difference when you are done (it will increase your driving pleasure immeasurably)

check this out before you are done too lowering seat
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Old 05-23-2004, 08:06 PM
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You betcha

I've already removed all the seam sealer and I opted for Eastwood's rubberized undercoating. As for the seat lowering, it would be nice but if I did that I probably wouldn't be able to see over the dashboard, unfortunately. I'm a bit on the short side, you see. When the car was original, I remember looking over the hood and only seeing the horizon so they may have to stay the way they are.

Thanks for the replies Deuce,
Pencilneck
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Old 05-24-2004, 04:18 PM
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I'm looking to do the same thing to my 66 stang. So it makes a big mess eh? what's the best/cleanest way of removing old oil and dirt from the undercarrige? What's teh best way for removing the old undercoating (you mentioned paint striper). Also deuce you mentioned having to por15 the underside, did you mean all of it? And this seam sealer where does it go? Right now i have a few spray cans of 3M rubberized undercoating good stuff or no?
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Old 05-25-2004, 07:06 AM
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I have been using a propane torch and scraper and slowly scraping the original undercoating off of my 87. Also had luck with one of those stripper discs on a drill. The wire brush on the angle grinder works too but it likes to just smear the undercoating all around rather than fling it off. Plus the wire bristles fly out and end up stuck in all of your clothes and skin.

The eastwood company undercoating remover doesn't work on factory rubber undercoating. It does a good job removing aftermarket undercoating but the factory stuff is way too tough for it.

kev
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Old 05-25-2004, 10:20 AM
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you don't HAVE to paint por 15 on anything, but when you have all the undercoating removed i just felt like painting it with something that lasts, instead of just respraying undercoating... but a box of rubberized undercoating cans would probably deaden the sound just as good as the deadener i added to the inside. as for the sealer, it goes in all the seams where welded panels overlap, to prevent water getting into the crack and causing corrosion
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Old 05-25-2004, 11:03 AM
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por 15

if this helps

i spent 3 weeks removing my old factory sealer-that was either soft and gooie,or hard and let water through,,,,i did the whole frame and body,,,,,

then i acid preped the same complete areas with pour 15's acid cleaner and prep.....then for another 2 full weeks- i neatly painted on 2 very heavy coats of pour 15,,,,getting into doors and every nook and crany-there is. and when i finished and still today-3 years latter-ifeel it was thee best step i added to my machine's durability....my proof of this takes but a moments glance-to see it is as new as the day i put it on.....and there isn't a hint of rust, or grime anywere on this daily driver

now the real kicker is---i spray on armor all -thick and wipe it down-about twice a year---and no dirt-oil-road kill-scum-or any other unwanted deposits--have ever stuck- with a simple washdown at a car wash or with my cheap presure washer,,,,,,and again the entire underbody--frame and all--once again emerges as bran new ,

this stuff works like no other underbody protector-ever made---it is truley amazing --once one gives it a honest try--you'll never use anyother thing-under your rigs,,,,,and it's also a good looking finished product...

but wear protective gloves-bibs-hats=face sheilds--or you'll be wearing it for weeks-untill it comes off with your skin.....

hope this will help someone-thats serious about underbody protection...cause it is alot of work-but worth every hour....

alaskan
john
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Old 05-25-2004, 11:12 AM
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The only thing I don't like about por-15 is that it doesn't take the topcoat well (if you are to topcoat it that is).

I used por 15 on my daily driver in some spots and topcoated over it. Within 3 months, the paint started to peel off. I did not use por-15 tie-coat primer though, but I still don't believe that the tie-coat primer will create a nice surface for the topcoat to adhere to. I'd hate to see my topcoat peel away after all that hard work. Thus I am seriously looking into Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. It is easier to apply than por-15, cheeper, and easily topcoated. Also I have read some test reports stating that it holds up better than por-15.

kev
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Old 05-25-2004, 11:40 AM
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don't use primer-don't use top coat---just acid wash an prep---and use the pour 15 in the red can= and it will never peel off---you did something wrong--or used the wrong application....

i cannot get mine off with hammers and chiels.....you really should rethink anything from eastwood--their more advertising then product..

good luck
alaskan
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Old 05-25-2004, 12:26 PM
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Yes I use the metal conditioner over the bare metal, then metal ready, then por-15. However I do not want por-15 as the final coat, I want my undercarraige sprayed the color of the car. However por-15 doesn't like to be painted over.

I have no problem with the por-15 flaking off. Like you said, I could chip it with a hammer and it still won't come off. However what flakes off is the paint that I applied on top of the por-15.

kev

Last edited by starquest; 05-25-2004 at 12:57 PM.
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Old 05-25-2004, 06:33 PM
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star q---sorry i did not know you wanted a paint over---i believe they have a nother top coat- that goes over the pour 15---so you can paint it----i have a quart can somewere--i'll try to find it an see what it says for you....if it will help....

good luck
alaskan
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