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mikey'sf-85 07-28-2012 04:52 PM

olds 330
 
I need a lot of help. Brains fried. I have a 65 olds with a 330, Just completed a complete overhaul, new pistons, new cam, new rods, new distrubiter new cap, new plug wires, new carb. Motor will turn over and try to fire but will not run. Have retimed and check my timing several times, have plenty of fuel going to motor, its just will not run, any clue what i am missing? any thoughts on what i could be over looking?

FmrStrtracer 07-28-2012 07:09 PM

18436572 Counter Clock-wise?

Ive wired them wrong a couple of times.

Stock or adjustable valve train?

mike Crawford 07-28-2012 07:10 PM

I have seen people put the wires on clockwise and the rotor turned counter clockwise .

mikey'sf-85 07-28-2012 08:59 PM

olds 330
 
Ok I have tried that, i have made that mistake before too, solid adjustable all adjusted to crane specs for cam. have great compression. It tries to run just will not, hits on several cylinders just not enough to fire up. Does not back fire at all or belch back thru carb.

FmrStrtracer 07-28-2012 09:07 PM

Where is base timing set?

Did you degree the cam?

Is this the stock points distributor?

WDCreech 07-28-2012 10:56 PM

Is this a case of firing while you are cranking, but stops when you let the key off of start? If so, you're not getting juice through the resister wire to your coil. Been there done that!

Bill

mikey'sf-85 07-29-2012 08:34 AM

olds 330
 
stock points yes. have retimed cam also. Even had shop that did machine work for me come over and look at it, Chevy shop, but they build great dirt track engines. As far as juice, yes its a littlle screwy but it does maintain at least 6.8 volts at all time even when not trying to start motor as long as key is on.

mikey'sf-85 07-29-2012 08:36 AM

olds 330
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by WDCreech (Post 1578074)
Is this a case of firing while you are cranking, but stops when you let the key off of start? If so, you're not getting juice through the resister wire to your coil. Been there done that!

Bill

Yes little screwy but keeps voltage there at all times while key is on

lmsport 07-29-2012 10:14 AM

Should have 12V to coil when cranking. Run a jumper to the coil + from the battery + and try it.

mikey'sf-85 07-29-2012 02:22 PM

olds 330
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by lmsport (Post 1578167)
Should have 12V to coil when cranking. Run a jumper to the coil + from the battery + and try it.

I did and still get the same results,

painted jester 07-29-2012 03:10 PM

It may be the condenser? Just had one do it to me (brand new out of the box was bad) I was throwing fits and then put the old condenser on and it started !!! I was mad as hell!!!LOL

Jester

mikey'sf-85 07-29-2012 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by painted jester (Post 1578281)
It may be the condenser? Just had one do it to me (brand new out of the box was bad) I was throwing fits and then put the old condenser on and it started !!! I was mad as hell!!!LOL

Jester

If it was only one yea but there has been 3 new condensors and the old one that was on it when i spun a rod bearing and nothing changes, im beyond mad this car is getting the best of me, I will say I LOVE MY OLD FORD it acts up but still runs and this hand me down olds is a pain

FmrStrtracer 07-30-2012 09:13 PM

Is the resistor wire connected to the (-) side of the coil? It should be.

Have you rechecked the plugs?

Progress?

Rineholio 07-30-2012 09:40 PM

I believe you chucked the distributor in on number one exhaust stroke instead of compression. Pull #1 spark plug, put finger in hole, turn engine until you feel compression, when it's about top dead center check where the rotor is pointing.

mikey'sf-85 08-01-2012 05:32 PM

olds 330
 
No dist. is in proper place and wires are all correct, i was told to mix some fuel with 110 race fuel, it runs with a 2 to 1 mix ratio of high test and 110 race fuel. Thank You to everyone who responded it was driving me up a wall. Yes machine work was done and i guess we got it a little tighter than i calculated. But Thank You to everyone who posted.


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