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I like PB Blaster as a penetrant, hands down. I'd try to level one side at a time (if the whole engine got wet but usually only a couple cylinders get it bad) and spray enough PB to cover the top of the affected piston(s). Let sit overnight, repeat for the other side/affected cylinders. Then 'rock' the crank back and forth, loosening it (hopefully) as you go. Quote:
Depending on the variables, you could get about 9:1 CR w/the 455 heads (80 cc chambers?), w/o milling, and w/a 'zero' deck. No matter, if it were me, I'd grab the 455, locked or not- as long as you have room for it. Was this a Toronado engine? I might have it mixed up w/another thread... |
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Well, insted of posting a picture since I cant figure out how, I will just send a link... http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLar...8&ImageIndex=5
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Right click on the image, click on properties, cut and paste the URL inside [img] and [/img].
I dunno, that engine looks wet. lol I hope not bad, though! EDIT- I wonder if anyone here (Joe) knows if that engine had "big" valves, like one suspect site says...
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Yea, It does. I still think its from sitting so long. And with this being canada with all the snow, Once it melts... you know where I am going. All the moisture and with the weeds and grass and such growing under the tarp. If you look at he picture the bottom of the engine is more rusty them the top. This makes me think that the rust on the bottom is from the snow and growth as I said and the top rust is from moisture age and just sitting for a number of years. After seeing the pictures what do you say?
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Being that you're in Ontario, That engine has been exposed to freezing temperatures and if there was enough water in a cylinder to crack a cylinder wall, it's toast. I personally wouldn't waste my time.
Bill |
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You'd pay he!! getting 450+ hp out of the 403. Especially with the whimpy main webbing. On the other hand, with the kits available for the 400 Pontiac, from the shops that I gave in post #12, you can make a, safe, 455, which would be stronger than a Pontiac 455 block, with about 550 hp. By "safe", I mean with just a .030 bore, and not have to worry about cylinder wall thickness. With a sonic check, you may find that it can be bored as much as .060, but that would be iffy for street use.
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Yea, these are some real expencive kits. I was thinking of getting a kit from this site that you showed me: http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/pontiac...rsionkits.html
The exact kit I was thinking of getting was Crank Kit Combo KSM-CK44551. This way I could use my stock rods and get some nice flowing older poncho heads and some forged pistons. I think thats about all right? |
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the rule of thumb I use is the more cubes the better , like you pointed out before there was something causing the Olds motor not to turnover , if the exaust pipes where removed and the valvetrain not relieved ( rockers backed off ) the moisture is going to come in thru the manifolds and then the exhaust valves and more than likely you will have more than one cylinder to deal with when it comes to rust , Being I am a Pontiac purist ( the engine should be the same as th car its in excepr for trucks) I say like Bill says do a 400 Poncho stroker ,But your should look for a pre 76 block as they do seam to be cast better ( cylinders walls are thicker and straighter and thicker main webs) but even a 400 punched out .060 with the right cam and intake and heads will make pretty decent power numbers my vote is Poncho .
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