Originally Posted by ScF
One option rather than the long tubular spacer and drive coupling and such that you are going through would be to reverse the engine/trans, have the engine/trans/chaincase weight all forward of the rear axle and run a TM400 tailshaft housing with a short driveshaft to a differential (aluminum of your choice and flipped for rotation or don't know if a 4WD front differential has the correct rotation?) and your rear suspension. This moves the entire engine AND trans forward rather than just the tranny. Your limit to the forward setting is how much room you have and with the engine offset to the passenger side of the car you can basically center your tailshaft output and drive shaft. With your current 17" or maybe a little more you could possibly clear the front of the engine (now at the rear) with your independent drive shafts to the wheels?
Of course that means re-engineering all of the extension work that you have already done!! HA!HA!
It has been mentioned that there is a way to reverse the transmission output shaft rotation by swapping in some 400 series gears/parts into the THM425. But I haven't found anyone that has actually done it, just rumors so far.
I've looked at this many ways and with anything other than the stock rear-end your are adding length that I have no room for. 1/4 inch more and it won't fit.
A stock tail-shaft alone is going to cost several inches. I think most non toro third members are hypoid another big minus.
The other benefit of what I have is the engine is lowered 3.75 inches, that's HUGE when you look at handling. The trans is 1" higher but that is needed for ground clearance as the bottom of the 3rd member is 2" off the ground. Bottom line 200 lb trans up 1", 450 lb engine down 3.75"
Other big plus is the engine oil pan is in the clear and easy to remove.
On another subject I cringe to think of gears replacing that chain.
Turn the drive-train around if you think that's the best way, for me its clearly not.