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Old 04-21-2011, 09:58 PM
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OMG! This is going to KILL ME

Well I guess im an idiot. After a couple grand in a build motor for my 1993 full size blazer, got it in after 4 days of adjustments, im not fast but it looks good, the computer does NOT like my 1974 350 at all. I tried using the original throttle body and she is as rough as hell.
SOOOOOOO, here is the latest news from what the experts everwhere seem to tell me.

My computer will not register with what is going on and my throttle body will not give me enough umpg so........new carb, but wait, theres more.

If I change the carb, I must also change the dist, and coil. NO problem but but but but......If I change those my trany will not work. So, replace the trany or pay roughly 700 bucks for an after market TCU to make it work...

Any help out there to make my life, and pocket book less painful?

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Old 04-21-2011, 10:21 PM
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-534-202/ never used this or heard of anyone using it but I would check out www.thirdgen.org for questions on this. Is the cam computer compatible? What are the specs on the engine?
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:29 PM
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Ok, here is the latest

Well I went ahead and pulled the top off of the motor, took the old intake manifold from the original 93 blazer engine and bored out the center two of the intake manifold bolts so I could get the angle that the older blocks require. I decided what the heck, its only time.

I got it put back togather and it runs quite smoothe at idle but I have a few issues.

1. The original engine had to idle around 800 rmp or I would get a check engine light. The older, built motor has to run at about 1500-2000 or I get the check engine light.

2. It seams I had to retard the timing off of TDC to get it smoothe.

3 Heavy carbon smell

4. When I put it in gear it drops way down on the rmp and wants to die so I have to double foot it on stops.

5. It seams that unless the idle is way up over 2000 rmp my breaks are really stiff like there is no power breaks.

6. The motor has roller rockers, someting I am not use to and they seam to rattle when it is running. Is this normal?
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:53 PM
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sounds like you have a vacuum leak, use a can of carb cleaner as spray around the intake manifold gasket areas. If the engine revs up it means you have a vacuum leak.

FYI, marine engines and vortec engines do not use the center bolts of the intake manifold, other people that I know that has done this swap I tell them not to even worry about the center bolts and just silicone the holes shut to prevent oil from coming out of the holes.
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:58 PM
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roller rockers should not rattle, how is the engine setup right now.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crussell85
roller rockers should not rattle, how is the engine setup right now.
I'm bettin' he used an Extreme Energy cam. They're noisy as hell. Too much duration and/or a short LSA would explain the loss of brakes....insufficient manifold vacuum.
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:02 PM
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This build is not set up for a computer control truck! What you need is TBI Performance Parts and a chip burnt depending on the level of the build. First I send everyone Here www.fullsizechevy.com first to see what everyone else is doing with chevy trucks! trouble shooting problem fixing!
More to look at!
www.thirdgen.org
www.moates.net
www.tbichips.com
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
I'm bettin' he used an Extreme Energy cam. They're noisy as hell. Too much duration and/or a short LSA would explain the loss of brakes....insufficient manifold vacuum.
He says he doesn't have power brakes below 2000 rpm, wouldn't higher rpms create less manifold vacuum?

I am thinking his engine specs are top secret. Thenri, you will get better help with your problem if you give us a lot more information not just that it won't run

Good information gets good responses!
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Old 04-25-2011, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crussell85
He says he doesn't have power brakes below 2000 rpm, wouldn't higher rpms create less manifold vacuum?
1. I don't think he'd be on the brake pedal and the loud pedal at the same time.
2. As r's increase, a lumpy cam smooths out and makes more vacuum, referred to as "gettin' up on the cam".
3. I think this whole thread is a Chinese Fire Drill and I probably should not have posted in the first place. I'm just a post whore and can't help it.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:41 PM
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Fire drill?

All of your help is appreciated. I normaly do NOT work on my blazer, I save that for my jags but this dad burn thing has me stumped.
I have an issue getting a chip made because I am not sure how this was built. I purchased it from a friend who purchased it from one of his friends 6 months ago. It was running great when he pulled it and purchased it and he can not get hold of his friend who built it.
I tried the vaccuum leak idea using starter fluid and got no response.
As for the breaks, they do work well when the idol is high but not when it is low.
As for the idle, it barely runs at idle I have to keep pumping the gas and holding the breaks down when I am at a stop light but at that time there is no power breaks.
The noise may be the cam but I am not sure. I have had a couple of friend look at it who know more than I and they say it seems to be pretty masivly built. All bolts were removed and studed for strength. This means little to me but may help someone help me.
The engine came with a different intake manifold and I tried it but the engine surged a lot from 600-2000 rpm back and forth. Since I put the one that was stock on it it does seam better but not much power and I know this can not be correct.
I am almost to the point of getting a different trany, one that is not computer controlled, pulling the intake off and putting a 650 on it but I dont want to waste more money if I dont have to.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:49 PM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-07...-/220586289967

that is a stand alone trans controller.

now you need a hei distributor and a carb.

if it still dsnt idle or make vacuum i would say a smaller cam is needed.

we are not really sure yet if the cam is an issue as engines that dont run really dont have much vacuum to begin with
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:56 PM
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Nice

Thank you so much. I will order one of these and get a carb and change the intake AGAIN.

I do appreciate all of the help. I sure hope this fixes my baby.

I will keep you posted but im stuck until next week.
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Old 04-25-2011, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mud bros
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-07...-/220586289967

that is a stand alone trans controller.

now you need a hei distributor and a carb.

if it still dsnt idle or make vacuum i would say a smaller cam is needed.

we are not really sure yet if the cam is an issue as engines that dont run really dont have much vacuum to begin with
Are you sure that is a stand alone controller? Most controllers are more money even just to make an electronic trans a stick shift. To me that looks like something that controls the line pressure giving you softer or firmer shifts. I think thats just an add on for a factory computer controlled trans. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
1. I don't think he'd be on the brake pedal and the loud pedal at the same time.
2. As r's increase, a lumpy cam smooths out and makes more vacuum, referred to as "gettin' up on the cam".
3. I think this whole thread is a Chinese Fire Drill and I probably should not have posted in the first place. I'm just a post whore and can't help it.
There's been a lot of these posts as of late with guys with 4-6 post! truck problems! It just seems weird! I'm not on all the time so when I see one I send them where they can fine help and info! The other thing is if you not really in to the computer control and tunning thing You need to learn how it all work because if you don't your computer controled ride will never run right or pass smog! Second trying to go old school will never work well and all your doing is throwing money away! I will tell you this much if you don't learn a little first the computer control guys will not even talk to you!

Craig
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
1. I don't think he'd be on the brake pedal and the loud pedal at the same time.
2. As r's increase, a lumpy cam smooths out and makes more vacuum, referred to as "gettin' up on the cam".
3. I think this whole thread is a Chinese Fire Drill and I probably should not have posted in the first place. I'm just a post whore and can't help it.

I agree on the fire drill part. I got this great 350 from a friend of a friend and it's all rebuilt.... I wish I had a couple bucks for every problem I've heard that started out that way.
My bet is also that it has a huge vacuum leak (among other problems). Is the exhaust burning your eyes? That's from a lean condition.
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