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Old 03-18-2012, 02:14 PM
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Here is the TDS for the ShopLine http://*********************.pdf

We have used a 1.4 and added 10% acetone and it went on without any problems. The dry dust you mentioned could have been due to being too far away or too much air pressure. This causing a dry overspray to land on top of the surface. It may have needed to be applied wetter. Also if it was real hot, this could be a problem too. I have never tried reducing it 50% so I am not sure how that would spray.

Clear coat used to be much easier to spray. To stay compliant with EPA the clears are higher solids. This means less solvents which it does not flow as well as the older clears. Most brands have been moving this direction.

The first thing that comes to mind when you say you had heavy orange peel with the clear is too low air pressure. If the pressure is too low, it will not atomize the clear coat into small enough droplets. This produces paint drops that are too big and will not flow out properly.

Another thing to consider is if you had the correct catalyst. Be sure to have overall for a complete.

Orange peel can be sanded and buffed out. This take work and time, but will remove orange peel or any dirt.

The only clear coat I use in Shop Line is 6700. Here is the TDS http://www.********************f

This is a European clear that seems to be the best clear Shop line has. I am not sure what the Omni number is to this or if they have it. You may ask your jobber about it the next time you buy clear. We use this clear or 2021 from PPG. We've had good results with these clear coats.

What clear and catalyst did you use?

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Old 03-18-2012, 02:28 PM
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Omni

The same thing happened to me. I not a painter either but gave it a try. It came out just like you said. With me it was all gun set up. I had to wet sand the entire car and had a friend come and show me as he painted. he ran a lot difference in pressure than I did. It came out great. Omni or shop line may not be the best but it ain't bad. Since then I done more painting and it has come out just fine. Sounds like it worked out in the end. good luck. Jan.
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:45 PM
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keep in mind you need a lot of flow for today's guns. i run 125 at the wall .
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 41 kustom
The same thing happened to me. I not a painter either but gave it a try. It came out just like you said. With me it was all gun set up. I had to wet sand the entire car and had a friend come and show me as he painted. he ran a lot difference in pressure than I did. It came out great. Omni or shop line may not be the best but it ain't bad. Since then I done more painting and it has come out just fine. Sounds like it worked out in the end. good luck. Jan.
it well all i can guess is that it was the gun or the product ive sprayed many cars with the same settings, just not that spacific gun. and that epoxy just baffeld the hell outa me and the best advise ive gotten was that it needed to be reduced more because the first time i sprayed it this year outa the same batch came out like snot and i had to do some fancy gun work to get it smooth. no sanding. and the 2k urethane cane out smooth as glass two coats and smooth as glass, the base coat came out smooth as glass. so we cant say that its the painter no runs nice even wet coats. the orange peal is noting its got to be wet sanded grapix applied and and then another four of clear, this time ill reduce the clear a bit and see how it comes out but im sure itll be smooth it was just a little thick and i thought origanaly that it should be reduced but i stuck with the tech sheet next time ill go with my gut. and eather way im wet sanding down to 4000p anyhow so if it does orange peal again its not like itll ever be seen like that any how. i always remember even the best painters that use 800 dollar guns and the best products, get runs, orange peal, solovent pops, lifting, etc. no ones perfect. and everything in life is a learning experiance even if youve done it a million times.
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by inkfreak1976
it well all i can guess is that it was the gun or the product ive sprayed many cars with the same settings, just not that spacific gun. and that epoxy just baffeld the hell outa me and the best advise ive gotten was that it needed to be reduced more because the first time i sprayed it this year outa the same batch came out like snot and i had to do some fancy gun work to get it smooth. no sanding. and the 2k urethane cane out smooth as glass two coats and smooth as glass, the base coat came out smooth as glass. so we cant say that its the painter no runs nice even wet coats. the orange peal is noting its got to be wet sanded grapix applied and and then another four of clear, this time ill reduce the clear a bit and see how it comes out but im sure itll be smooth it was just a little thick and i thought origanaly that it should be reduced but i stuck with the tech sheet next time ill go with my gut. and eather way im wet sanding down to 4000p anyhow so if it does orange peal again its not like itll ever be seen like that any how. i always remember even the best painters that use 800 dollar guns and the best products, get runs, orange peal, solovent pops, lifting, etc. no ones perfect. and everything in life is a learning experiance even if youve done it a million times.
You've got that right! I've got a saying I tell my students when something does not go right and they are discouraged. You show me a painter that has never had a run and I will show you a lier...lol

Anyway, no one is perfect, I was just trying to help you troubleshoot the problem by some of the most common issues I've seen, but you are right, no one is perfect and everything can be fixed.

Our favorite spray gun is Iwata Supernova, which is more expensive. However, we also use Sharpe Finex FX 3000 and have good results with that gun too. It is under $200. So you are right, you don't have to have the most expensive gun.

It seems like we had more problems with some of the Omni clear coats when clearing a complete. The European clear coat works well for completes and is the only clear coat I really like in the Shopline line of products that I have found. We do not reduce this clear and it comes out fine. However, I think we have reduced some of the other Omni or Shopline clears to help them lay down better.

Something else to think about is another brand. I do not like the base coats, but Martin Senior overall clear lays down well. Their base coats do not seem to match as well. However if it is a complete, then you should be fine. Martin Senior from NAPA, Shrewin Willimas, or Acme are the same product labeled different. I am not sure how this line of paint compares in price to Omni.

Good luck with your project. It sounds like you have a good idea of what to do so I'm sure it will be fine. Donnie
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:17 AM
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Try the spi universal clear or his production clear next time. Probably not any more than what your paying for your omni or other cheap clears you will never go back to them again.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by swvalcon
Try the spi universal clear or his production clear next time. Probably not any more than what your paying for your omni or other cheap clears you will never go back to them again.
this will probly be the last full paint job thatll ever use omni products on, maybe some small panel repair or some one that dont have the money for decent paint.
i think ill go with house of kolor paints next time, ive never had a problem like this with there products. there comperable with ppg's high quility products. and hok gives you the options on the tech sheets, and has a tech hot line to help with problems, that you can literaly get answers with in 20 mins. i used to hate hok untill i got used to them and after this i think itll be worth the extra money to go back.
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:25 PM
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Even with a house of kolor paint I would still use Berrry's Spi clear on it. I haven't used any House of Kolor paint for years. Use to use some back in the early to mid 70's and went down to south mineapolis and bought it right from Kos himself. He had a little custom shop just off lake st. before he went big time.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:00 AM
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up date,
started to color sand, its going well and sanding easy. im nocking it down with 400p and finishing with 600p. im getting it really smooth like glass.
but im needing some advise, im spraying a black race stripe on this thing and just for the stripe i want it to be a flat black. i got a quart of flat clear coat.
but im not wanting to color sand it because i dont want it to be shiny. i want it to remain flat. but i really dont want a tape line that can be felt. if any one has any idea of what im looking to do or has worked with omni flat clear coat, and knows how to do this please give me a heads up.
today ill be mounting doors and wet sanding the sides. and getting ready to lay down the stripe and if any one has any good advise on how to center stripes let me know. usaly it take several times for me to get it right so if theres any good easy advise ill take it. basicly im not sure where to measure from, or do i just pick a body line and and go with it. i know how to tape it off just need help centering it .
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