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Old 05-23-2004, 02:38 PM
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One done fender---Not too bad

Hey guys,

Awhile back I posted a fender dilemna problem...well, here's the fender almost done. I totally hosed the first attempt which made the second attempt even harder.

If you notice the bottom of the fender isn't matching up with the rocker...it's not a big deal, it WILL. I just kind of mocked it up with a couple of bolts to see where I stood and I pushed it up into place and it looks good.

Now I need to go to the hardware store to get a few nuts that are missing...and I need to weld in the replacement brace.

http://hotrodders.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7072

thanks for the support.

OH BTW--just for future reference, I learned the hard way, you can't screw up the placement of this patch panel. If you put the patch over the existing and cut them both, regardless of how the original looked, you should be golden.

I mocked everything up like everyone said to do. I put the patch by the side, line up with the rocker, drew a line and cut. Well, when I went to weld the patch on the fender...the patch was not as wide as the cut on the fender, I came up short.

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Old 05-23-2004, 02:50 PM
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Looking good. Keep the faith.. It's amazing how sometimes you try so hard and think you've'e got all the bases covered and then everything screws up anyway.
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Old 05-23-2004, 11:40 PM
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Keep at it and you'll have it seemless in just a few hours. If you use body filler on that I'm gonna have to hurt ya bad!!
Keep up the good work. Always remember, you're in control, not the metal. Metal is stupid, just tell it where to go and it will listen.

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Old 05-24-2004, 12:30 AM
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it's lookin' good m'an.

think of what that would have cost in a shop. and most likely, they would have stopped right there and used filler. i would say you are the man, but right now, we're (I'm) in a 'screw the 'man'' mode, so how about "badas$".?

"metal is stupid." that's a good one. i might use that some time.

if'n you don't mind?
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Old 05-24-2004, 04:44 AM
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I'm thinking my metal must be deft. I keep yelling at it but it still don't listen.
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Old 05-24-2004, 09:24 AM
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metal may be stupid, but I'm stupider.

Randy, what else do I need to do? I HONESTLY thought I was close to done, this is by far the best I have done so far. how to get rid of the mig seam?
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Old 05-24-2004, 04:19 PM
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Sanding disk to remove the weld. Hammers and dollys for the rough work then shrinking disk to shrink the high spots. You will more then likely have to do the hammer/dolly and shrinking disk cycles a few times to get it to perfection.

I never seen the original panel, but it looks like your in command now.
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Old 05-24-2004, 06:15 PM
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Start by using a file over the weld seam. This will reveal the highs and lows. Bump up the lows with a dolly from the back side. You will just be tapping it from the back side very lightly. A magic marker coloring the surface first may help you if you have trouble seeing where the low areas are. keep bumping up the low spots until they nearly disappear. keep filing as you go to get rid of more of your proud weld. A grinding wheel at this point will leave you with thin spots. Work down the proud weld on the back side too, this will help you to get a perfectly smooth seam. JUst don't get into the surrounding metal, only take off the weld. You can do this with a 1/16" cut-off wheel in a die grinder. Go slow and you'll do fine. Once you have it very close, you can work with a slapper and dolly to further refine the surface. You may have to re-ink the area several times to get it, but progression should be fairly swift. When you get to the point you have almost no ink left after going over the surface with either a file or a block sander, you can run the shrinking disc over it to get rid of any over stretched spots. Remember what you learned the first time you went to Wray's, that will help you with the slapper and dolly work. The process is the same, although you aren't using a post dolly. Keep at it, you'll get it!

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Old 05-24-2004, 06:22 PM
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Looks good! Have been there/done that patch panel several times. I admit, I slum and stop metal work at the point you are and smear on some bondo.
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Old 05-24-2004, 06:30 PM
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hahaha I still need to make some slappers. I went through the hassle and expense of buying an oxy/acet setup + bottles + gas...and they've been sitting out back (the bottles).

I even have the springs. It's partially time, partially fear. I haven't played with a torch in a long time, and I guess even though I've read a fair amount on them, I'm still a little fearful that I'm going to blow myself up. I think it's better to be scared than to be foolish when it comes to these things.

Now Randy, here's a serious question on this...I laid a bunch of tacks and I'm using mig. I'm not exactly proficient with the torch, so I have some areas where the weld is un-poundable so to speak. Should I just grind this down? I mean, there's nowhere for it to go.

Willy's--you don't have anything to be ashamed of, you put together some hot rigs. I don't necessarily think that top-notch metal work is always the best route to go. It's very time consuming.
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Old 05-24-2004, 09:04 PM
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HUH??? Unpoundable??? It's not unpoundable. Use a hammer and dolly if that's what you have to crush the weld. It's not a big deal. This stuff is soooo easy. It's just like clay!! Just move it where you want it!

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Old 05-24-2004, 09:12 PM
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well what I mean is, when you have a valley from putting a bevel on the two pieces of sheetmetal, when you weld and you have a proud weld you have a place for it to go--right?

Well...say for example you just laid a nice thick bead in the center of a panel...you don't want to pound it down...I don't think..because I actually had a nice chunk of filler metal that had no place to go, I started pounding it, and it took part of the panel down with it (even though I had a dolly block firmly backing it).

So should I just hit these areas with a grinder?
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Old 05-24-2004, 11:04 PM
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geez, i bet Randy has a grip like a hydraulic vise.
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Old 05-25-2004, 12:36 AM
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unstable,
I'm not totally following you. The very best advice I can give you at this point it to take it with you next time you head over to Wray's. He can show you in two minutes what we can discuss here in two days. Then you can share that information with us here.

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Old 05-25-2004, 08:09 AM
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Randy,

I absolutely loath bothering Wray with personal crap when he's trying to get work done...perhaps I will though, suck up the embarassment and take it to him.

Just for the sake of running my mouth, I figured I would take another attempt at explaining what I was trying to say.

if you take a piece of sheetmetal that is 1'x1' and in the very center lay a bead...pointlessly, just to illustrate my point. Then you tried to hammer down on that bead, what's going to happen? From what I have seen, and using logic, it would seem that the bead would crush slightly, but at the same time, it would drop the surrounding metal down slightly because that bead has no place to go...know what I mean? This is what happened to me.

As oppose to having two pieces of 1'x1' sheetmetal, throwing a bevel on an edge of each and welding them together. then you have:

\/

with a proud weld directly over the top of the "V" so the filler metal actually has a place to go when you start hammering it. It will crush down into that void...know what I'm saying?

Well what if you went overboard and laid down too much of a bead...let's say for the sake of argument and illustration that you just drank a keg of beer, and thought it would be cool if you laid 10 beads on top of each other at that joint. You're going to have waaay too much filler there. right?

so you'd grind it down some...right?
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