[texapache]

I have a 1959 chevy truck that has the original master cylinder. It has a front clip with disk brakes from an 80's model Camaro. The whole brake system needs to be upgraded, but my brakes were still working before storing the truck for 5 years. The brakes pedal travels all the way to the floor before the truck will stop. I thought that maybe I could bleed the brakes and it may start working again, but I have no help. I loosened the plug and attached a clear hose in a bottle of brake fluid and pressed the brake all the way to the ground. I never seen anything going in or out of the clear hose. The brakes are just as bad as ever. I finally gave up...and am seeking more information before attempting again. Am I doing something wrong....or is the master cylinder finally done from sitting up so long? Please help. I really want to get this truck back on the road...even if it is to the brake shop to get an upgrade!

[texapache]

additional information is the mc is located on the frame. I just happen to be reading a magazine that had this very article and it suggested to use a hand held vacuum pump. Looks like I'm going to have to hit up my neighbor!

[T-bucket23]

If it is a 59 it has a single master cylinder if it is original. You need to get that upgraded to a dual system. There are kits to accomplish this I am sure as there are a ton of those trucks on the road.
If the brakes worked fine when you parked it and now they don't, something failed. It is a sealed system and air should not be able to enter on its own. My guess is that original master cylinder probably has seals that have failed and can not hold pressure anymore.

If you need to change it it would be wise to upgrade.

[texapache]

Yes I agree... an upgrade is the best option.

[302 Z28]

You might consider getting some speed bleeders, they make the one man operation a snap.

Vince

[kc8oye]

i've had problems with those speed bleeders leaking before.. they work ok.

Since I started bleeding the brakes this way, i've had nice firm pedals.

if it's a new M/c. bench bleed it with the directions that come with it.

once everything is in the car, I use a clear paint mixing cup so it doesn't melt with the brake fluid..
put a clear hose on the bleeder, put the end of the hose in the cup.. pour enough clean brake fluid into the cup to cover the end of the hose.
open the bleeder
pump the snot out of the brakes.
but don't go crazy.. if you pump the m/c dry, you get air back in and have to start over again!

once you are getting clear brake fluid from the bleeder, close it and move on to the next wheel.

I don't know if it matters _that_ much. but every thing I've ever read on bleeding brakes always says start with the wheel furthest from the m/c and work your way closer..

on most cars that's RR, LR, FR, FL

[aosborn]

Start bleeding the brakes right at the outlet of the master cylinder. If you have adequate flow and pressure there, then move to the wheels. If not, then there you are, bad master cylinder...

Andy

[kc8oye]

good point for diagnostics there andy