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79monte 03-19-2002 12:53 PM

One for nos/and nos for all
I am looking for help from people with Nitrous Experience. Bad bow tie gave me an idea but I need hard facts to make my decesion. Here Is my engine
350chev,2 bolt main, .060 over, 9:5:1 compression, edelbrock performer intake. 600 edelbrock carb, Hydralic cam and lifters, cam is .450/.460, 1 5/8 headders 3 in collectors, 1.94,1.60 heads HEI ignition and 8mm wires. How much if any Nitrous could I use on this engine, Is it hard to install and if i do get it where can i get the bottle filled?
Thanks for the help in advance,

[ March 20, 2002: Message edited by: 79monte ]</p>

4 Jaw Chuck 03-20-2002 08:58 PM

Question #1-How much can I use?

As much as you want until you blow the head gaskets out of it, I would not use more than a 50HP or 75HP shot until you know what your doing. The critical part is the solenoids and the fuel pump, both have to flow large amounts of N2O and fuel and must be in top shape so you don't starve the engine of either at full load (kiss it goodbye). Use the largest most expensive fuel pump you can afford and use a pressure relief plumbed into the fuel return line to maintain your pressure, I can't stress this enough. Big fuel lines (1/2" at least) right from the tank (inside the tank too!) insulated N2O lines right to the carb (you do not want the stuff vaporizing before the nozzles). Once you have the entire system established and working properly with the smallest "pill", you can try the larger "pills". Put a gauge on every thing leading to the engine, oil pressure, fuel pressure, N2O pressure etc. The last thing you want is the fuel pressure dropping, the N2O pressure rising because it's hot outside and your oil pressure dropping at the same time (kiss it goodbye). Personally I like the bottle mounted in the front clip somewhere so the line length is kept to a minimum. A key point to remember is if one gauge is dropping or low, shut it down-it's not worth it even if you have to swallow some pride and lose a race.

Question #2-Is it hard to install?

To do it right means reengineering your entire fuel system and intake distribution if you want that 150HP shot. Ideally your engine should have forged pistons fitted on the loose side in case you detonate the motor at full load with a bottle that suddenly runs dry, freezes up a solenoid or any other million things that can go wrong. If you have cast or eutectic pistons and you detonate at full load-kiss it goodbye. In my opinion there no is half way to build a nitrous motor, sure there are many guys just buying the kit and doing it half-a__ed but they will get bit eventually. Seen it happen a million times. Another real important point is your HEI is basically useless at the kinds of cylinder pressures N2O can generate-think FRANKENSTEIN!

Question #3-Where do I get my bottle filled?

The local rod shop, medical gas suppliers, welding gas suppliers sometimes. Best to phone around and make sure your bottles are getting weighed while it is being filled. You should be paying by the pound not by the bottle. One last thing, buy the biggest bottle you can afford/fit it's the s_its having to refill every week and don't use it if you only have a quarter bottle left-refill!!

Message edited to be chemically correct

[ March 22, 2002: Message edited by: 4 Jaw Chuck ]</p>

79monte 03-21-2002 12:49 PM

you said the biggest most expensive fuel pump I can afford, what kind of pressure do you recomend for the engine I describded. As of now i have a Holley red electronic fuel pump and stock fuel system in my 1979 monte carlo. How much would you estimate that this renavation would cost. I dont plan on ever going past 6000 RPM and usually never above 5500 RPM.thanks
79monte :D

4 Jaw Chuck 03-21-2002 04:52 PM

A Holley red pump is a good start, buy another one and plumb it in parallel. Sound like overkill?, let me tell you why. You are going to be feeding an oxygen rich gas at high RPM, to use this oxygen you need fuel to compensate or it will go lean. You ever hear detonation at 5000 rpm? Of course not, at that rpm there is so much noise and things going on you will not hear it. If you run into detonation at this rpm with N2O flowing the engine will go lean and combustion chamber temps go through the roof. It always seems that they run just great until the hole appears in the piston. So this means you do not want the fuel pressure to drop at any time, high G loadings at launch can play havoc with fuel pickup so keep that in mind too.

Fuel pressure requirements have not changed but your volume sure has, thats why the dual pumps and big lines. Listen if all you want is an extra 50-75 HP you might get away with your stock setup-MAYBE! The problem with N2O is it is so easy to dial it up and get more more MORE! This is what gets most people into trouble. If you can restrain yourself and have a well dialed in fuel system then go for it. BUT your stock lines are not sufficient for anything but the stock carb. I recommend you upgrade the fuel system, the gauges, etc. if you want to be playing it safe with the minimum shot. It is not worth a blown engine to find out the hard way.

How much will it cost?, the sky is the limit. If the N2O system is $400 then add another $600 for the modifications to use it safely. If you do it right the first time then you can play with more N2O. Otherwise you will be stuck with a marginal system that can be brought down by something as simple as vapor lock. It really depends on how much, how fast, and how well built the engine is to take the added pressure. Don't be discouraged, just don't do it cheap-you will be sorry.

BTW rpm is irrelevent, high combustion pressure and temps are what causes the damage with N2O. Ignition and timing becomes all important with N2O so throw in a heavy duty ignition system to light it off when it needs it. That HEI won't cut it for long.

Message edited to be chemically correct ;)

[ March 22, 2002: Message edited by: 4 Jaw Chuck ]</p>

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