![]() |
|
|
|
|||||
|
One piece windows/56chevy p'up
Hi everyone, hope this is the right section for window help
) there is very little room to get into this area, but I am thinking of stinking my mig welding tip in there and just putting a small bead on each end (if I can reach it at all) to keep the rollers from slipping out of the end of the sash. But, this will make this more or less permanent and could be a problem if ever needed to be disassembled! I was hoping that someone would have some experience with this or a "better" idea... I must confess I have a 66 mustang/302/3 speed and it is much easier to fix stuff like this because the area to access is opened up much more! Anyway, thanks for the ideas/help PS: He went out and found this truck all on his own at 14 yrs old and purchased it with his own hard earned money and has paid for every cent (about 12K at this point although the truck was only $1500 with no motor or tranny) so it's come a long way baby in 3 yrs...and a lot of grass cutting and working as a busboy to get it done the old fashioned way! His truck: http://www.freewebs.com/gwstang/56truckpics.htm my 66 Mustang: http://www.freewebs.com/gwstang/ |
|
||||||
|
One ot the problems with a 1 piece window in any old car is the "balance" of the window is messed up when 2 bosses on the scissors travels through the horizontal float bar.
The old set up has the centering balance driving the weight of the window glass to the front and rear vertical track in an equalized fashion. Now that the front vertical is moved farther forward (how much depends on the vent window size) the rear boss and front boss on the scissors have much more pressure on the horizontal rail and it want to wander more. Most of the time guys go right to power windows and center the track and the problem goes away. The power track fix is as low as 145 bucks, depending on the track you use. The alternative may be a little more trial and error. Usually there is an anti rattle spring and washer on the scissor arms that hold the bosses tight in track. maybe an extra washer would help. As the horizontal track attached to the window glass has contour in it that is supposed to permit the boss only to move in a for aft direction and only allow the bosses to pop out then the spring is compressed beyond the farthest bottom position (into a install removal position). Depending on where the bosses pop out (anywhere or when in the full down position) adding a downward stop at the front and rear vertical track guide could help. or putting a little weld on the bosses of the scissor to thicken up the contour interference with the horizontal so it wont pop out mid travel. I think a stop screw added to the rear of the vertical track (a stainless pan head drilled in from the outside of the door frame, about an 6 or 7mm, with a peice of rubber on the inside) a couple peices of hose inside hose to build up the diameter and prevent window break on bumps is needed and an undersized washer and an anti-loosening acorn nut on the inside does a pretty good job. This way it can be removed if you want to take the glass out and will remind him to stop before over cranking it to the removal position. I would recommend front and rear be done, but if the rear only can be done as access to front may be a problem. Back only would help. JMHO Last edited by creativeinteriors; 08-04-2005 at 08:07 AM. |
|
|||||
|
Thanks for reply
Hey Johnnymopar and creativeinteriors. I think the good fellow above (creativeinteriors) did a much better job of explaining the dynamics of how it was and now how it is, better than I could. He's right, the window basically will just run right off the rollers, because the sash bar that rides on the rollers has no "stop" at this point. I did add a small screw in the rear to maybe stop it from rolling right off. Thanks for the great idea (creativeinteriors) for the electric window tracks. I have notice before that they have a one track system that just goes straight up and straight down on it. I may have to resort to this for a permanent solution. Thanks to all that replied...gary.
Last edited by gwstang; 08-05-2005 at 10:10 AM. |
|
|
| Recent Interior posts with photos |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| "Basic of Basics" Welding - How do I repair body panels? | Centerline | Body - Exterior | 29 | 06-18-2009 06:54 AM |
| Ford 1 and 2 piece fuel pump eccentrics | lluciano77 | Engine | 17 | 10-09-2004 10:58 PM |
| need some input on ford one piece to two piece seal conversion | 357ford | Engine | 6 | 10-08-2004 10:51 AM |
| 2 piece rear main seal | Brian Morency | Engine | 6 | 07-07-2004 11:54 AM |
| Were to find-2 piece valve covers | ALASKAN | Engine | 10 | 04-23-2004 10:40 AM |