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As a Moderator, I have watched this question with interest.....I guess no one knows for sure.....I sure do not...
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Definitely look at a few untouched cars, and a service manual, to be sure. Ford used that same valve body for a # of years. (The earlier ones had 2 additional ports for an inline res. valve to rear.)
To me, the third one (without master) looks most likely to be correct, with the inlets on either side of the wire. The front inlet might be supposed to be on the end (where driver's front connects), rather than top, but I see them both ways. I also usually see them mounted flat, with the wire coming out the side, rather than top. The other 2 just look wrong, both from the mounting rotation and line inlet aspect. Inlet lines wont normally enter from opposite sides, unless it is from either end (front and back of valve), which is not possible on yours. They either will enter from same side, next to the wire, or one next to wire, and the other on one end. Those two also have an inlet on the bottom, and outlet on top. This goes against gravity, and could make it more difficult to bleed all the air out. |
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The third one looks right to me.
I put a '67 MC on my '66 Mustang and a '70-ish prop valve. The third one looks closest to what I did. The switch on mine was pointing up, the lines went from the MC into the top of the block. I will try to get a pic of my setup for you tomarrow. It works fine for me, I just upgraded the MC to a dual for now, the Granada spindles are going on soon. |
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update!!!!!!!!!!!
i ran with the set up in picture number 3, as it made the most sense. it works great. just a foot note: i also bought the self bleeders from (help), man i had never used these things and i want to tell you they are great. i had the system bleed in less that 10mins. those things are awesome. i just used a piece of rubber hose over the bleeder valve and ran it into a coke can. no mess!!!!
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