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Old 09-13-2006, 09:47 PM
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One Wire Alternator Hook up?

I ordered a Proform, 80 amp, alternator stock number 66445.8N from mail order thinking it was a regular stock wire hook up but now that I have it it turns out it is a one wire hook up which I really did not want. They admit in the directions that it will not even charge the battery until you get to 2500 rpm. Car is driven normally on the street mostly in town. 350 engine. manual transmission

The directions say all I have to do is connect one 10 ga wire from the battery positive terminal to the battery terminal on the back of the alternator. This is a big hassled for me because my battery is located in the trunk.

Is there any way I can make my existing wire set up work with this alternator?

Should I keep this or send it back? Anyone have a good or bad experience with this type of alternator?

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Old 09-14-2006, 12:20 AM
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Doc here,

In my opinion, a one wire Alternator is a fine answer to space/wire problems on like a show roadster..but a bit impractical for a street rod..

In fact IIRC, They were designed for tractor operations..where the engine had no draw other than coil.. and was constantly running above 1500 RPM..

I recommend a Three wire..you have an option for a lamp, and Voltage sensing for the regulator..

But your choice there..

As far as Hook up..Is the "B" cable on your starter solenoid still hot with your remote starter system? or only when actually cranking? If so, you can run your fuse link and 10 gauge wire to that..and it will be "all good" ...

If your existing alternator wire has a "Hot At All Times" Wire on it..you COULD use that..the MAJOR draw back being..it most likely is under rated for the new draw..and if it is run to the rear now , IS in fact under rated..

either way if you run a wire to the trunk it needs to be 8 gauge or better for proper ampacity (assuming the car is about 20 feet long) ...and your worst case draw will be 80 amps with spikes up to 100 amps..

Doc
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Old 09-14-2006, 01:19 AM
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One Wire - Three Wire Read this and make your decision.
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Old 09-14-2006, 06:08 AM
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You can convert it back to a regular 3 wire by changing the voltage regulator if you need to. It may be less than the return postage !!
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Old 09-14-2006, 06:18 AM
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>Should I keep this or send it back? Anyone have a good or bad >experience with this type of alternator?

I have a one wire alternator on my '65 Impala and it's worked fine. They are self energizing, so yes, you do have to get the alternator RPM up one time after you start the engine in order to energize the fields, but once done it will continue to charge at any RPM just like a regular alternator. As for the hot wire, just hook it to the hot side of the solenoid on your starter. Give it a try, and if you don't like it you can swap out the regulator for the three wire set up as was suggested.

Bob
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Old 09-14-2006, 06:34 AM
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Doc here,

You can also change the pulley sizing to overcome the low RPM syndrome..

But if Remote Voltage sensing is required , you may still experience headlights that rise and fall at start / stop lights..

Doesn't sound like much...but there is a big difference to the battery state between 12.2 Volts and 14.4...If your going to be stop / go in traffic 90 % of the time with a high current demand..you may have problems.

A lot depends on your personal preference and driving requirements..

Doc
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Old 09-14-2006, 07:50 PM
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Will send Alt. back- have new problem

OK, thanks for all that information. I have read every post with interest. We have solved the connection problem, but Doc Vet says I may still experience trouble in stop and go traffic. Once I install this on the car you can not send it back so to avoid problems and have piece of mind, I think I will send this back and put a stock unit back on.

Also with this one wire hook up, would my amp gauge still work?

I have a new problem now as I just got my mini starter today. There are only two terminals on the side of the starter. My old stock starter had three.
I am using the old points type distributor with the Pertronix electronic conversion (because I would have to cut the firewall to install HEI) which means I still have the ballast resister, and the "R" terminal on the starter was being used, if I understand this correctly. The directions that came with the new mini starter say to use the optional "R" terminal Diode Kit P/N 600. They don't say what is involved with installing this, what it cost, or where to get one.

Anyone have advise on this issue? Thanks for the help so far.
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Old 09-14-2006, 09:06 PM
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Doc here,

Your amp gauge should work fine..

As far as the Diode kit, "R" terminal, (never used one..) but I assume it is a diode extending from the "S" terminal to prevent back flow from the secondary Ignition, to the Starter energize line .. so the starter doesn't try and start while the engine is running....(but I've been wrong before..)

You can do the same thing with a relay, just wire the coil to ground #85, and the power #86 to the "S" terminal, and the Center wiper terminal #30 to the secondary Ignition circuit..and the normally open terminal #87, to the battery.

You can also do the same with a Ford Type solenoid , should you happen to have one handy..

The way it works, when you hit start on the key, the starter energizes, and the relay fires, this closes the relay contacts and puts a full 12 volts on the secondary Ignition line..when you let off the key, the coil opens the contacts and the secondary ignition is then disabled.

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Old 09-15-2006, 11:55 AM
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OnNe wire alternator

I have a one wire alt. on my 35 Ford works fine. The only reason I'm changing back is that years ago going to Fla at 11PM my alt went out in NC Was back on road from gas station in 1 hour. I would have been in trouble trying to find a one wire.
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Old 09-15-2006, 03:36 PM
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I installed a 1 wire alternator in place of a 3 wire and did not have to use any new wireing. I just used the existing hot lead that ran to my alternator. Since it goes down to my Starter and bolts up to the battery cable there, its like running a direct wire to the battery. Doing it this way , you wouldnt need to run a new wire all the way to your battery.
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Old 09-15-2006, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mako68
I installed a 1 wire alternator in place of a 3 wire and did not have to use any new wireing. I just used the existing hot lead that ran to my alternator. Since it goes down to my Starter and bolts up to the battery cable there, its like running a direct wire to the battery. Doing it this way , you wouldnt need to run a new wire all the way to your battery.

Doc here,

If the remote starter is configured such as to remove all power to the local solenoid (Starter mounted) when The Key is relaxed from the Start position back to "Run" .. (and most are)..

Installing your Charging wire there, will result in dead batterys..as power will not be able to reach the battery from the local solenoid, and defeat the purpose of shutting power off on the long wire run from solenoid to solenoid (alternator powering the line from starter , rear to the remote solenoid).




If your 1 wire upgrade was one such as, 100 amp from a 63 Amp, (usual stock rated is 63 amp) Chances are that "Existing Wire" is way underrated for the "possibility" of maximum load that could be delivered by the Alternator..

If you didn't upgrade the Fuse link to match, (or install a new one , as not all were factory installed..) you may be courting trouble.

Please keep in mind , Wire Gauge and fuse protection devices are to Protect the WIRE and HARNESS from fire and meltdown..Not to protect the end user device..

If the total load is 110 amps the wire has the ampacity to support 75 constant amps, and a fuse link is 150 amps...The wire then becomes the fuse. and will do it's part by catching fire..

this is usually overlooked , or unknown to the up-grader, and never upgraded..The total ampacity of the wire MUST be slightly higher than the total draw for the circuit, worst case.. (not the other way around..) as well as the fuse protection device..

Doc
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Old 09-15-2006, 04:37 PM
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The original wire was 10 gauge, I figured that should be strong enough and there was no fuseable link in the origianal factory wire.
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