[pi71]

ive got a 67 cougar with a 289, can i hook the one wire from the alternator to my starter solenoid (positive side) thats mounted on the inner fender or does it have to go to the battery, im assuming they are the same?

[busterwivell]

I'd hook it to the battery, that's the way I've done all of mine.

[docvette]

Doc here,

Connect a FUSE LINK or MAXI FUSE to the Battery side of the solenoid, then the alternator output wire to the fuse link.

This way, the links are out of the way, and free to burn up in case of overload, And accessible, AND the wire is NOT subject to Battery Corrosion and Loose cables.




Doc

[Holder350]

on my Chevette I use a 40Amp circit breaker.

(large speakers and small 60amp alts dont get along)

[docvette]

Originally Posted by Holder350

on my Chevette I use a 40Amp circit breaker.

(large speakers and small 60amp alts dont get along)

Doc here,

Your headed For a lot of "Replacement" / Reset Breaker Headaches...

A Breaker, unless Thermally based, will "Pop" at the Drop of a hat..like 42 or 43 amps...(Thump~) ..and you'll be resetting it..a LOT! Also it is probably under rated for the wire size you presently have, which is NOT BAD...but you get better performance if you close up all the "Headroom" you can..more current to the end user device, without the fear of the "Wire" being the weakest link in the chain..The more performance you get at the output!

If you use a Fuse link, or a MAXI FUSE..That requires Over current (Heat) AND time (seconds to minutes) in a Constant over-current situation BEFORE the junction opens..therefore you won't be setting breakers or Fuses every time you get a long segment of Bassy Thumps on the high power audio system..IF the draw on the line link it as close a possible IF not at the same draw..PLUS you have that "High Draw Buffer" without loss of protection.




Doc

[Holder350]

It is a thermal breaker which trips and reset automatic, under normal driveing with lights radio and winshield wipers going it stays on but if I crank the tunes my amp will trip it and it begins to pull off the batt only, my charge gauge drops to about 10V and know to turn the music down.

Is soon to be upgraded to a 100AMP.

Doc correct me if my thinking is wrong, is there any diffrance in the windings between a 78 and 108 alt? Or does the negitive diode set the amperage?

[docvette]

Originally Posted by Holder350

It is a thermal breaker which trips and reset automatic, under normal driveing with lights radio and winshield wipers going it stays on but if I crank the tunes my amp will trip it and it begins to pull off the batt only, my charge gauge drops to about 10V and know to turn the music down.

Is soon to be upgraded to a 100AMP.

Doc correct me if my thinking is wrong, is there any diffrance in the windings between a 78 and 108 alt? Or does the negitive diode set the amperage?

Doc here,


Toss The Breaker, Upgrade and be sure the feed wire is capable of MAX Supply current, (Peaks, not continuous) , and install a PROPER FUSE link or MAXI FUSE...

BY the time you get DONE screwing around with the breaker so it won't Trip on amplitude Peaks, you will have OVER FUSED the supply wire it is supposed to protect..then your headed for malt down and fire.

WHEN you upgrade, you'll have to do it all anyway, from the Alternator output back...might as well get a start on it now..

According to the GM~ac1 rebuild kit..there is NO difference between the 63 amp to the 100 Amp alternator..(look it up, It's your part number..one size fits all) however the Diode bricks become larger and sink more heat at the higher ampacity's..They list no 108 amp (for Chevy anyway..) and the divide line is the 12SI series, into the CS 130/140 Series..

Physical Attributes WILL change depending on it's application...(left, right, top, bottom..)but for the most part, the internals remain the same.



Doc

[Holder350]

yeah well thats easier said than done, the alt that I have has a special case on it and the only alt that I can get it a 63amp SOOOO the last 2 alts that have been put on have been 73's (that are MUCH cheaper) and I have simply changed windings, diodes, and armatures.

The negative diode (heat sink) is the only part that I can find that actually changes PN for the different amperage sizeings. My problem is really not that the windings are going. when I disassemble the alt they check out alright, so I'm thinking the diodes are burning out.

But my 40Amp breaker mounted to my alt case has saved me from buying ANY more alts . my feed wire is a #6 and is wired thru the fusible link directly to the bat, So I'm not realy worried about the wire burning out/killing the car.

Not drivein it right now but it was working like a charm for 6 months after install.

there is NOTHING worse than being stuck thumming a ride to the parts store, where you stand at the counter and rebuild you alt infront of the counter guy, who wonders why your taking apart this brand new "caprice" alt.