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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2012, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
The 920's are one of the better prefered 76cc open chamber heads.
The turn out good when ported. Much better than the 882's. The ast cast ports are better and will turn out better, once ported.
A good 76cc head to start working with for a low buck blower motor.
I have a set here too that are almost done, for my blower motor project.
I just drill and roll pin the rocker studs on mine, when I port them.
The 920's actually turn out better than my infamous ported 305HO heads do.
Just with the larger low compression chamber. They need generous porting. 2.02 x 1.60 best for these.
For the supercharger you don't want to chave them any more than nessessary.
low cr is better.

No idea on the low oil pressure. What is the oil pressure at 2000 rpm with the engine fully warmed up.? That is what matters.
You don't need a lot of oil pressure at idle. As long as the oil light stays off and the lifters don;t tick its enough.

rev it up and read the oil pressure @2000-2500rpm. (warm engine)
At 2000 rpm it shows about 15 PSi, I'm actually not gonna panic too much about it, checking the oil shows it black, and super thin oil in it, so I'm gonna ditch all the lines and oil cooler, flush the oil, run some 20/50 and then see what it looks like. Zero knocks or tics at idle even with only 2-3 psi at idle....so on a side note, due to some budgetary concerns, I may not be able to swing the blower this summer, which sucks....but is reality sometimes...I suspect braces for my kid will take priority.....that being said, what I have laying around currently is the 920 heads on the motor now, a set of 882's with screw in studs and guide plates, 70cc chambers and 202/160 valves. I have a b&m 3000 stall, I have a performer rpm intake, and a Holley 750 or an edelbrock 650,. I will be picking up a set of 410's for gear. Help me screw something together that will at least be able to turn these giant Mickey Thompson's and run a decent number, and yah I now it shouldn't matter but something that sounds lumpy would be OK too lol....yes, I do have a comp mother thmpr cam sitting on the shelf as well as a standard thumpr, one was my mistake, the other a friends mistake....so.....what can I do with this junk and still have some balls?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2012, 10:53 PM
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OK, I will start at the top, I ended up with the 882 heads because they were a part of a deal, 200$ for the heads, as set of crane roller rockers, and a performer intake, a sent a buddy to get them,he payed for everything and is keeping the rockers and intake, I have the option of the heads at 100$, if I want them fine, if not he will keep and I'm out nothing....the thmpr cams, the smaller one I had in a 350 a couple years ago, it was put in broken in, and that was it, the timing cover had a small crack that was unknown at the time, so when i replaced that I simply went with more cam, and threw this on a shelf, its clean and looks brand new, the mthr thumpr someone traded me for a comp 268 I had, he wasn't happy with it, I had the 268 on the shelf,I'm not sure if the mthr thmpr is good or not, never checked, didn't care, was just trying to help the guy out, but I know his initial break in didn't go well so it may be hurt. I'm more then willing to look for 416 heads again or even something better, that's not an issue, I just won't go new if I'm going to try and save for a blower next year, I have no idea until I get the heads off what's in it for pistons, I was told its a 355 with "true"flat tops whatever he means by that, I will know when i get it apart. Yes they are Sports man pros....I'm told when aired down they hook....but never tried a set. If they don't, I have access to 31" Goodyear slicks on drag lights whenever I need them tho...I would like to stay in the 456 or 513 range to maintain some highway drivability.....so, all this to say, both sets of heads are junk for a NA build, assuming the motor isnt hurt, and has flat tops, find heads in the 64 or 58 CC range again, and go from there. The rest is straight forward, it already has longtubes, throw a decent set of used heads, 1094 head gasket, a solid lifter cam suited to my gear choice and my 3000 stall, the performer rpm jntake, the holley 750, modify the hei, and enjoy it while paying for HER braces and saving up or blower build next summer....
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
If you want to try the smaller thumpr cam for grins in that motor, with the stall and gears, degree it and move to a 100° intake C/L
.050" timing check points (checked using a solid lifter) 13.5 -- 33.5(intake closing point) 54.5 --6.5ex

227 241 @.050" 107° lSA 100° in 114°ex installed C/L's

Lock out the distributor mech adv system (full locked 34 to 36deg timing).
You can retain and use the vac advance (ported)
use a 4.5' power valve or 4" step up spring (eddy)

5.13++ gears. 3000+stall
So I removed the oil cooler and related lines and sht, changed the oil with 10/40 today, and let it get up to operating temp, now it shows app 15-20 PSi at idle, 10-15 in gear, no funny noises....so I'm gonna run 20/50 in the summer and not worry about it. I also have another set of 416 heads, my buddy is puling his 305 from his olds cutlass next month ans that's the heads on it, runs good, low mileage so I will really really go nuts with the porting this time, and use the springs, valves, and guide plates from those 882's I can buy for $100. 456 gear, the solid cam you reccomended for my vette, and my converter, and hopefully this whale will move half decent.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2012, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
What is the oil pressure at 2000 rpm? that is the critical spec.
A simple compression test will tell the general health of the motor too.
Should run good with those changes. Don't put 2.02's in the 416 heads. 1.94 is best.
You can block off the egr heat riser passages by filling with old melted down pistons.

Post the results when you get it done.
At 2000 its around 30 -35 psi.
No no, will use valves from the old 882 heads i pulled off the vette, stock 350, and use the guide plates and screw in studs and springs from the circle track 882's I picked up. The felpro 1205 are blocked at the heat riser....
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
At 2000 its around 30 -35 psi.
No no, will use valves from the old 882 heads i pulled off the vette, stock 350, and use the guide plates and screw in studs and springs from the circle track 882's I picked up. The felpro 1205 are blocked at the heat riser....
Although there is a shop in Montreal that is selling dart alum heads fully assembled for 950$, 200cc....so may do a little more researche and find out which heads they are and if its worth it.....they are only a couple hours away at the most. If they are legit, and 64cc chambers, I will run the 1094 head gaskets, and be coming back to you for much larger cam reccomendation to really use a big head like that.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2012, 12:22 PM
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TETE DART 350 CHEVROLET ALUMINIUM - Laval / Rive-Nord Moteur, pièces de moteur à vendre - Kijiji Laval / Rive-Nord
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2012, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bygddy View Post
Just got home, guy mailed this morn bout my vette. Came and saw, and straight trade....called my buddy with a tow truck, and off we went. 1940 chev sedan delivery,
Nice truck, but I'm sure you'll find it's not a "sedan delivery". It's a Chevy panel truck. Sedan deliveries were based on a station wagon body and chassis with a delivery door on the back, while panels were truck based on a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2012, 10:03 PM
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Nice truck, but I'm sure you'll find it's not a "sedan delivery". It's a Chevy panel truck. Sedan deliveries were based on a station wagon body and chassis with a delivery door on the back, while panels were truck based on a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck.
Yah, miss spoke....I did actually mean panel van, or truck...not sedan del.
Thanks
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2012, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
What is the oil pressure at 2000 rpm? that is the critical spec.
A simple compression test will tell the general health of the motor too.
Should run good with those changes. Don't put 2.02's in the 416 heads. 1.94 is best.
You can block off the egr heat riser passages by filling with old melted down pistons.

Post the results when you get it done.
OK, so it looks like I will be going with the Dart SHP 200's. This guy will match summit's prticingb on pretty much anything without having to deal with broker or shipping chargeS. They fit my budget and seem to have some decent flow numbers especially with a little port work. So using these heads, long tubes with 3" exhaust to single chamber flowmasters, 750DP, 3000 stall, and a 456 gear with a sticky 31" tires what would you suggest cam wise? I looked at the lunati 60104 but would rather go solid. They are supposed to be good to 620 lift and I'm not afraid to turn it to 6500 regularly...sooo....and no, replacing the convertrt for bigger isn't an option right now, with enough motor I'm told it should stall around 3200. Ohhh..and the previous owner had the truck scaled at the dump and it came in at 3670# ....better then I had hoped.....
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Buying parts that are for sale.

you need to try to avoid falling into the trap of collecting a bunch of stuff because it is easy or avaiable
and then adjusting your plan to suite the the parts.
You will end up with a much better result for the money spent by developing a good build plan
and then buy the parts that fit the plan. Even if that means waiting.
The local used-for sale Kijiji/craigslist part that does not fit your plan is not a good deal.

EG: buying a 3000 stall converter because it was for sale, even thou you wanted a more radical motor ( big cam duration/tunnel ram) that needs a converter with a higher stall.
Same with gears.
Heads aernt a "sale" item, speed shop in Montreal, dart SHP 200, Spent alot of reading time on the bullet for some real world testing and for the cash they seem to be the real deal. 465$ each, assembled, all American parts.....converter, yes....was a sale item off kijiji, but 2800-3200 is kinda where I wanted to be anyways, as for gear, I haven't bought yet, but was liking where a 456 puts me rpm wise at 100kph.....which for the amount of commuting I do is important. I get its a compromise, and nothing is free. Ultimately i am like anyone else, I need to be able to drive it, and am more then willing to deal with rpm, noise, heat, etc as long as it fits a reasonable budget, and is a brutal as i can get based on the above info....if I could afford it I would have more head, more cam, more gear, .....but I can't, so i want as much as i can afford lol. Soooo......still wanna help me pick a cam based on these heads, converter and gear? Lol
Dave
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Does this speed shop have Brodix heads?
Something to consider if you are going to buy speed parts
Ogdensburg, New York (serving Ottawa and Brockville area) | Ship to the Border

Lunati 60141
These cams need good springs Usually a "K2" spring package.
New Lunati Part number 30120741
Lunati Cam grind number CS V8 V276S10

"Jegs" Profiler "USA head"
JEGS Performance Products 514032 JEGS Small Block Chevy Cylinder Heads
Yah, he says he can get pretty much anything at roughly the same price as summit or jegs. I was looking at the IK200 as well....just haven't had time to read up on them much. I would be doing some minor port clean up and some pushrod pinch clean up regardless of which heads. I currently have a perfomer RPM but did promise it in the trade with the vette. So may have to find another, the professional products version seems popular, and I do have the 750DP still. Currently has long tubes to 3" collectors, will then be 3" back to 10 series flowmasters then out in front of the rear tires, one bend only and its a 45°. Gonna go check out the numbers on the Lunati 60141 you mentioned.
And I priced the shp heads, a lunati voodoo hyd with lifters, and the rpm intake, he quoted me 1520 taxes in.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:55 PM
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Good afternoon!! Lotsa good advice for you above this post. My take on this is for you to find a great engine builder as close to you as possible to set you up from start to finish to do exactly what you are after. Get it in writing if possible inorder to stave off any possible future problems.
If'n you "spread the work out" over a few places, none of them will step up and do you right when things go wrong.. Keep it all under one roof with the best builder as close as possible to you in the Ottawa area. Do your homework and ask, Google, and whatever else you have to do to ensure you a goin' down the right path. Believe there is one in the Monkland area who came in the Top 5 or Top 10 in the U.S. engine builder's challenge this year. Don't remember his name from the Hot Rod magazine but ...
T.
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Old 12-17-2012, 03:34 PM
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I have never seen your vette. Would love to see what you traded for that sweet panel !!
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:04 PM
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I have never seen your vette. Would love to see what you traded for that sweet panel !!
My vette was......lets say cosmetically challenged.....needed a rad support, headlight support bar, paint, interior, some brake work, bird cage......it was quick for what it was, real quick actually, and took all the abuse I could throw at it. I loved it, and will likely miss it come summer time, the panel is neat, but its a big cumbersom whale, and its sloooooow.....don't know if I will keep it or not yet, been through 5 cars in 3 summers so clearly I have no loyalty and little intelligence....and the fact that its pro street means unless it goes like 10's its always going to be a poser car lol....I dunno, if i can get it to run a 12 anything, and be reliable, without spending a fortune the I will likely hang onto it. Getting a heater for my garage for Christmas, and then following some f-bird advice with some of my own opinions will start ordering parts and maybe that will get me enthused to do something with it over the winter.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by opelitis5 View Post
Good afternoon!! Lotsa good advice for you above this post. My take on this is for you to find a great engine builder as close to you as possible to set you up from start to finish to do exactly what you are after. Get it in writing if possible inorder to stave off any possible future problems.
If'n you "spread the work out" over a few places, none of them will step up and do you right when things go wrong.. Keep it all under one roof with the best builder as close as possible to you in the Ottawa area. Do your homework and ask, Google, and whatever else you have to do to ensure you a goin' down the right path. Believe there is one in the Monkland area who came in the Top 5 or Top 10 in the U.S. engine builder's challenge this year. Don't remember his name from the Hot Rod magazine but ...
T.
Yah but that sounds expensive, and not much fun.....I absolutely love playing with motors, and have zero issue asembling stuff....I hate wiring, no idea how to do body and paint, but the junk I have screwed together has so far proven to be reasonably quick and dead reliable....and really, that's the best feeling ever.
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