[F-BIRD'88]

The Weiand 177 Supercharger Kit may seem like a big chunk purchase, but you get a huge gain in performance power and torque even bolting it onto the motor you got, without gears, etc etc etc. Out of the box big Bang for the buck that gets even better with upgrades.
The payoff is huge. You get a lot more of overall performance. The car will do a lot more, of what a performance car should do well,, better.

GLH and cruise.

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

The Weiand 177 Supercharger Kit may seem like a big chunk purchase, but you get a huge gain in performance power and torque even bolting it onto the motor you got, without gears, etc etc etc. Out of the box big Bang for the buck that gets even better with upgrades.
The payoff is huge. You get a lot more of overall performance. The car will do a lot more, of what a performance car should do well,, better.

GLH and cruise.

When i was a kid, well, late teens I had a buddy with a 50 merc, identical to the movie car from cobra, just more chop, it had a stone stock junkyard 350 with a 471 on it, it flew, and took 2 full summers of hard core abuse before it got hurt...I will likely yank the motor and trans out of this over the winter and throw some cheap forged pistons in it....then save my pennies until I can pick up a small blower...

[bygddy]

Went on my maiden voyage tonight, stops and steers amazing which was a suprse, tranny feels soft, motor is actually half decent feeling, feels peppy, dfidnt push it tho, has fk all oil pressure, so maybe just a guage, maybe something to do with the 5 feet of braided line and multiple oil filters, or maybe its empty, didnt check, or hell maybe its junk, dfoesnt smoke or knock tho, rear springs are soft, easy to fix tho, one casualty, very rough road and lost pass side headlight bezel, which sucks....anyone got one kicking around? Lol......

[F-BIRD'88]

You don;t need forged pistons. Just get the blower and bolt it on.
When its all set up correctly the motor does not detonate under boost, therefore the pistons are not stressed.
You can make huge power with stock pistons and 5 to 6psi boost without fear of the pistons.
Cast are fine up to about 8psi as long as detonation is avoided. Thats a matter of specific set up.

When its setup correctly the motor does not detonate under boost. Just smooth, reliable supercharged power.
Lots of mis understanding and mis information on these roots supercharged motors.
This stock short block will serve you for many years and make huge street power at reasonable boost levels.

Save the 22cc D dished forged 350 pistons for big boost 10psi +.
(TRW-speed pro. Probe)

i bet the heads that are on this motor are more desirable than the 882 heads.
The 882 heads are worth more to you $sold off$ back to the circle jerks.
They need these heads. You don't.

There are much better smoggers to use as a start point and you already know how to port them.

[bygddy]

OK, so it has 920 heads on it now, and why the hell would it have this? Guage reads real real low on oil pressure, no noises or knocks, but like virtually zero at idle....would the remote cooler and filters affect this?

[spinn]

Supercharging is the way. Been running boost in my c10 since july, and not one problem. It starts fine when cold in the morning. Fine in traffic to work. Im running 9+ lbs of boost, and shifting at 5200. Have added over 10k miles since july. Mileage didnt change after stuffing. It is a 305, 906 heads, and performer cam. You would never believe it.

Much misinformation on blown engines. They want to scare you away, because it is too easy to make big power. Stock small blocks can easily handle 6psi.

I have a couple horror stories, but they were shifting at higher rpm. Not considering normal limits.

[F-BIRD'88]

Originally Posted by bygddy

OK, so it has 920 heads on it now, and why the hell would it have this? Guage reads real real low on oil pressure, no noises or knocks, but like virtually zero at idle....would the remote cooler and filters affect this?

The 920's are one of the better prefered 76cc open chamber heads.
The turn out good when ported. Much better than the 882's. The ast cast ports are better and will turn out better, once ported.
A good 76cc head to start working with for a low buck blower motor.
I have a set here too that are almost done, for my blower motor project.
I just drill and roll pin the rocker studs on mine, when I port them.
The 920's actually turn out better than my infamous ported 305HO heads do.
Just with the larger low compression chamber. They need generous porting. 2.02 x 1.60 best for these.
For the supercharger you don't want to chave them any more than nessessary.
low cr is better.

No idea on the low oil pressure. What is the oil pressure at 2000 rpm with the engine fully warmed up.? That is what matters.
You don't need a lot of oil pressure at idle. As long as the oil light stays off and the lifters don;t tick its enough.

rev it up and read the oil pressure @2000-2500rpm. (warm engine)

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

The 920's are one of the better prefered 76cc open chamber heads.
The turn out good when ported. Much better than the 882's. The ast cast ports are better and will turn out better, once ported.
A good 76cc head to start working with for a low buck blower motor.
I have a set here too that are almost done, for my blower motor project.
I just drill and roll pin the rocker studs on mine, when I port them.
The 920's actually turn out better than my infamous ported 305HO heads do.
Just with the larger low compression chamber. They need generous porting. 2.02 x 1.60 best for these.
For the supercharger you don't want to chave them any more than nessessary.
low cr is better.

No idea on the low oil pressure. What is the oil pressure at 2000 rpm with the engine fully warmed up.? That is what matters.
You don't need a lot of oil pressure at idle. As long as the oil light stays off and the lifters don;t tick its enough.

rev it up and read the oil pressure @2000-2500rpm. (warm engine)

At 2000 rpm it shows about 15 PSi, I'm actually not gonna panic too much about it, checking the oil shows it black, and super thin oil in it, so I'm gonna ditch all the lines and oil cooler, flush the oil, run some 20/50 and then see what it looks like. Zero knocks or tics at idle even with only 2-3 psi at idle....so on a side note, due to some budgetary concerns, I may not be able to swing the blower this summer, which sucks....but is reality sometimes...I suspect braces for my kid will take priority.....that being said, what I have laying around currently is the 920 heads on the motor now, a set of 882's with screw in studs and guide plates, 70cc chambers and 202/160 valves. I have a b&m 3000 stall, I have a performer rpm intake, and a Holley 750 or an edelbrock 650,. I will be picking up a set of 410's for gear. Help me screw something together that will at least be able to turn these giant Mickey Thompson's and run a decent number, and yah I now it shouldn't matter but something that sounds lumpy would be OK too lol....yes, I do have a comp mother thmpr cam sitting on the shelf as well as a standard thumpr, one was my mistake, the other a friends mistake....so.....what can I do with this junk and still have some balls?

[F-BIRD'88]

Oil pressure. check with a good gauge after replacing the oil and filter.
Check at the oil port by the distributor on the back of the block. (full oil pressure)
Eliminate the remote filter, oil cooler and retest. Could be blocked-restricted.

Thumpr cam. Could have used that in your vette w the 3000 stall and 4.11's.
These cams work well when the motor is set up correctly for them.
Compression ratio, torque converter and gears, head flow, distributor recurve or lock out.

Making something of what you got. What yu got is a low compression ratio engine wiht crappy heads.
The 882's are crappy even when ported. The only value in those low flow restrictive low compression heads is the 2.02 x 1.60 valves and studs and guide plates parts.
Could be used on the 920's with porting to build a low cr blower motor.
could be used in a small chamber high flow (new bare castings or ported 58 to 64cc heads) perf head.
Reguardless of how you use the other pats the crappy 882 heads will result in lame performance, no power no torque.

You hav a bad habit of buying what is offered instead of what you actually need.
The 4.10's with a 31" tire would be fine on a supercharged 350SBC in your car.

For a N/A -cammed, built 350 and 31" tires you want a 5.38:1 gear ratio.
If you are going to build a N/A motor the 4.10's are not enough gear.
Again buying a bunch of parts that don;t work together. and or have very poor power potential, just cause someone offered them. (882 heads)

You will end up spending twice as much and get half the performance.

The thumpr cams can both work well but you need to use them in a real motor (10;1 10.5:1 compresssion
and decent head flow) for them to make power. They need gears and converter and flow!.

They will not work n a low cr motor with crap head and no gear (4.10's and 31" tires equals no gear.)
Do not buy less than a 5.13:1 gear for a N/A motor in this car with a 31" tire.

If the motor is worn out or wounded, then do nothing. Wait, get your kid his braces and save your money.
Just drive it as is. save your money and plan a good motor combo.
STOP BUYING odd, cast off used-crappy parts just cause they are for sale.
You will end up with 1000's of $$$S wrapped up in junk.

You need to find another set of the 305HO 4416 heads or other small chamber 58-64cc head to work with the thumpr cams. in your stock 350.. Low cr will not work.

[F-BIRD'88]

Why did you not mention having the thumpr cams when you had the vette and were asking about cams?
Are these cams new unused cams? what part numbers exactly?

They work well when the combo is right. Most people have no clue how to use them.

its a matter of combo and setup.

[F-BIRD'88]

The muthr thempr and BIG MUTHR THUMPR cam actually make very good power
when used in a high compression ratio motor with head flow and LOW restriction Exhaust!.
They need big gears and converter stall and correct distributor setup.
The engine must be able to rev up === valve springs and port flow.

High compression ratio = 's 10.5:1 for sunoco 94 gas.

needs 5.38:1 gears for a 31" tall tire and a 3500++stall

[F-BIRD'88]

31" tall pro street tires.

what is the side wall label? size and model name? some of these Pro street tires are very hard rubber compound
(last forever but have no real traction) The Mickey/Thompson Sportsman *PRO*'s and ET Street tires work well.

The conventional Sportsman tires have no traction. (They are designed for show-street cruising and long tread life, not for going fast) Some of the others are just as bad or worse for traction.

you need to determine what you got and the true effective loaded diameter. measured loaded radius x2.
(measure from the ground to axle C/L with the car weight on the tire.)

What is the measured weight of the car, with you in it? (race weight)

What pistons are in this motor?

[bygddy]

OK, I will start at the top, I ended up with the 882 heads because they were a part of a deal, 200$ for the heads, as set of crane roller rockers, and a performer intake, a sent a buddy to get them,he payed for everything and is keeping the rockers and intake, I have the option of the heads at 100$, if I want them fine, if not he will keep and I'm out nothing....the thmpr cams, the smaller one I had in a 350 a couple years ago, it was put in broken in, and that was it, the timing cover had a small crack that was unknown at the time, so when i replaced that I simply went with more cam, and threw this on a shelf, its clean and looks brand new, the mthr thumpr someone traded me for a comp 268 I had, he wasn't happy with it, I had the 268 on the shelf,I'm not sure if the mthr thmpr is good or not, never checked, didn't care, was just trying to help the guy out, but I know his initial break in didn't go well so it may be hurt. I'm more then willing to look for 416 heads again or even something better, that's not an issue, I just won't go new if I'm going to try and save for a blower next year, I have no idea until I get the heads off what's in it for pistons, I was told its a 355 with "true"flat tops whatever he means by that, I will know when i get it apart. Yes they are Sports man pros....I'm told when aired down they hook....but never tried a set. If they don't, I have access to 31" Goodyear slicks on drag lights whenever I need them tho...I would like to stay in the 456 or 513 range to maintain some highway drivability.....so, all this to say, both sets of heads are junk for a NA build, assuming the motor isnt hurt, and has flat tops, find heads in the 64 or 58 CC range again, and go from there. The rest is straight forward, it already has longtubes, throw a decent set of used heads, 1094 head gasket, a solid lifter cam suited to my gear choice and my 3000 stall, the performer rpm jntake, the holley 750, modify the hei, and enjoy it while paying for HER braces and saving up or blower build next summer....

[F-BIRD'88]

If the 2.02x 1.60 valves are perfect condition and decent. (Manley) you could buy a nice set of Bare PROFILER r
176 series heads or bare Brodix IK200 heads and install your valves etc and have a decent set of powerfull heads.

SBC 23 Degree Cylinder Heads

210 cc port 64cc for a 10.5:1 N/A motor 72cc for a low cr blower motor.
ONLY if the valves you got are in perfect condition.

Brodix IK200
http://www.brodix.com/heads/ik.php

Both these heads make for a very good base for a strong SBC.

[F-BIRD'88]

The sportsman pros do work well when pressured down and get better as some of the new tread is burned off.
They will work well for you.

Get your money back on the 882 heads. Not worth anything. "worst of the worst SBC heads" even when ported.
The 920's are a pre 1975 better choice open chamber 76cc smogger. (better, shaped and larger as cast ports, single heat riser, heavy casting, better when ported too)

5.13's can work with a 31" tire. (N/A combo) A (big solid lifter) cammed motor wants to rev.

Many of the flat tops piston eg: H345NP have a fubared compression height (1.54") resulting in a big piston to deck clearance
@TDC and less cr. .045" ++ deck clearance on a non decked block. something to look for before you tear the motor down.
Always measure the assembled deck clearance before tear down. Then you can measure the true pin height and determine the block deck height.

re: .045" deck height ...not such a bad thing when you want a low compression ratio blower motor.
blower friendly 7.87:1 with 80cc heads (deshrouded 76cc smogger heads) + .051" corvette gasket
Just use generous larger rind end gaps for high boost applications.