[F-BIRD'88]

If you want to try the smaller thumpr cam for grins in that motor, with the stall and gears, degree it and move to a 100° intake C/L
.050" timing check points (checked using a solid lifter) 13.5 -- 33.5(intake closing point) 54.5 --6.5ex

227 241 @.050" 107° lSA 100° in 114°ex installed C/L's

Lock out the distributor mech adv system (full locked 34 to 36deg timing).
You can retain and use the vac advance (ported)
use a 4.5' power valve or 4" step up spring (eddy)

5.13++ gears. 3000+stall

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

If you want to try the smaller thumpr cam for grins in that motor, with the stall and gears, degree it and move to a 100° intake C/L
.050" timing check points (checked using a solid lifter) 13.5 -- 33.5(intake closing point) 54.5 --6.5ex

227 241 @.050" 107° lSA 100° in 114°ex installed C/L's

Lock out the distributor mech adv system (full locked 34 to 36deg timing).
You can retain and use the vac advance (ported)
use a 4.5' power valve or 4" step up spring (eddy)

5.13++ gears. 3000+stall

So I removed the oil cooler and related lines and sht, changed the oil with 10/40 today, and let it get up to operating temp, now it shows app 15-20 PSi at idle, 10-15 in gear, no funny noises....so I'm gonna run 20/50 in the summer and not worry about it. I also have another set of 416 heads, my buddy is puling his 305 from his olds cutlass next month ans that's the heads on it, runs good, low mileage so I will really really go nuts with the porting this time, and use the springs, valves, and guide plates from those 882's I can buy for $100. 456 gear, the solid cam you reccomended for my vette, and my converter, and hopefully this whale will move half decent.

[F-BIRD'88]

What is the oil pressure at 2000 rpm? that is the critical spec.
A simple compression test will tell the general health of the motor too.
Should run good with those changes. Don't put 2.02's in the 416 heads. 1.94 is best.
You can block off the egr heat riser passages by filling with old melted down pistons.

Post the results when you get it done.

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

What is the oil pressure at 2000 rpm? that is the critical spec.
A simple compression test will tell the general health of the motor too.
Should run good with those changes. Don't put 2.02's in the 416 heads. 1.94 is best.
You can block off the egr heat riser passages by filling with old melted down pistons.

Post the results when you get it done.

At 2000 its around 30 -35 psi.
No no, will use valves from the old 882 heads i pulled off the vette, stock 350, and use the guide plates and screw in studs and springs from the circle track 882's I picked up. The felpro 1205 are blocked at the heat riser....

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by bygddy

At 2000 its around 30 -35 psi.
No no, will use valves from the old 882 heads i pulled off the vette, stock 350, and use the guide plates and screw in studs and springs from the circle track 882's I picked up. The felpro 1205 are blocked at the heat riser....

Although there is a shop in Montreal that is selling dart alum heads fully assembled for 950$, 200cc....so may do a little more researche and find out which heads they are and if its worth it.....they are only a couple hours away at the most. If they are legit, and 64cc chambers, I will run the 1094 head gaskets, and be coming back to you for much larger cam reccomendation to really use a big head like that.

[bygddy]

TETE DART 350 CHEVROLET ALUMINIUM - Laval / Rive-Nord Moteur, pièces de moteur à vendre - Kijiji Laval / Rive-Nord

[1971BB427]

Originally Posted by bygddy

Just got home, guy mailed this morn bout my vette. Came and saw, and straight trade....called my buddy with a tow truck, and off we went. 1940 chev sedan delivery,

Nice truck, but I'm sure you'll find it's not a "sedan delivery". It's a Chevy panel truck. Sedan deliveries were based on a station wagon body and chassis with a delivery door on the back, while panels were truck based on a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck.

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by 1971BB427

Nice truck, but I'm sure you'll find it's not a "sedan delivery". It's a Chevy panel truck. Sedan deliveries were based on a station wagon body and chassis with a delivery door on the back, while panels were truck based on a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck.

Yah, miss spoke....I did actually mean panel van, or truck...not sedan del.
Thanks
dave

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

What is the oil pressure at 2000 rpm? that is the critical spec.
A simple compression test will tell the general health of the motor too.
Should run good with those changes. Don't put 2.02's in the 416 heads. 1.94 is best.
You can block off the egr heat riser passages by filling with old melted down pistons.

Post the results when you get it done.

OK, so it looks like I will be going with the Dart SHP 200's. This guy will match summit's prticingb on pretty much anything without having to deal with broker or shipping chargeS. They fit my budget and seem to have some decent flow numbers especially with a little port work. So using these heads, long tubes with 3" exhaust to single chamber flowmasters, 750DP, 3000 stall, and a 456 gear with a sticky 31" tires what would you suggest cam wise? I looked at the lunati 60104 but would rather go solid. They are supposed to be good to 620 lift and I'm not afraid to turn it to 6500 regularly...sooo....and no, replacing the convertrt for bigger isn't an option right now, with enough motor I'm told it should stall around 3200. Ohhh..and the previous owner had the truck scaled at the dump and it came in at 3670# ....better then I had hoped.....

[F-BIRD'88]

Then don't choose and or buy a camshaft until you have the cylinder heads in your hand.
is this a new aluminum cylinder head? Remember the SHP head is the cheap red haired step child brother of the Dart Platinum Pro 1 head. You get what you pay for.

Lots of really good heads to choose from in the $1000 price range.

www.brodix.com
www.profilerperformance.com

#3670 This car is a tank!

[F-BIRD'88]

Buying parts that are for sale.

you need to try to avoid falling into the trap of collecting a bunch of stuff because it is easy or avaiable
and then adjusting your plan to suite the the parts.
You will end up with a much better result for the money spent by developing a good build plan
and then buy the parts that fit the plan. Even if that means waiting.
The local used-for sale Kijiji/craigslist part that does not fit your plan is not a good deal.

EG: buying a 3000 stall converter because it was for sale, even thou you wanted a more radical motor ( big cam duration/tunnel ram) that needs a converter with a higher stall.
Same with gears. Same with cylinder heads.

If you want a 500hp performance result, don't buy 325HP parts.

You need to define your performance goals better, before buying parts.

One of the benefits of the long cold snowy Ottawa winter is you got lots of time to create a good plan.
A good Hot Rod build aways needs a good plan.

[bygddy]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

Buying parts that are for sale.

you need to try to avoid falling into the trap of collecting a bunch of stuff because it is easy or avaiable
and then adjusting your plan to suite the the parts.
You will end up with a much better result for the money spent by developing a good build plan
and then buy the parts that fit the plan. Even if that means waiting.
The local used-for sale Kijiji/craigslist part that does not fit your plan is not a good deal.

EG: buying a 3000 stall converter because it was for sale, even thou you wanted a more radical motor ( big cam duration/tunnel ram) that needs a converter with a higher stall.
Same with gears.

Heads aernt a "sale" item, speed shop in Montreal, dart SHP 200, Spent alot of reading time on the bullet for some real world testing and for the cash they seem to be the real deal. 465$ each, assembled, all American parts.....converter, yes....was a sale item off kijiji, but 2800-3200 is kinda where I wanted to be anyways, as for gear, I haven't bought yet, but was liking where a 456 puts me rpm wise at 100kph.....which for the amount of commuting I do is important. I get its a compromise, and nothing is free. Ultimately i am like anyone else, I need to be able to drive it, and am more then willing to deal with rpm, noise, heat, etc as long as it fits a reasonable budget, and is a brutal as i can get based on the above info....if I could afford it I would have more head, more cam, more gear, .....but I can't, so i want as much as i can afford lol. Soooo......still wanna help me pick a cam based on these heads, converter and gear? Lol
Dave

[F-BIRD'88]

Wait until you have the heads etc. One of the biggest mistakes people make is rushing out and buying a cam
and ending up with the wrong cam for the job. The cam choice is a critical element.
It sets the whole nature of the engine. and how the car "drives".

The Lunati street 401A3LUN solid cam is still a good overall choice for where you're headed.
Its a nice "street cam"
Something in that range is good. possibley with more lift or rocker ratio with the dart heads.
If that is your head choice then they will benefit form some port cleanup as all as cast heads do.
possible Crane F-280-2 cam #114681 (or a custom grind variation of it)
Crane F244/3454-2S-6 possibe single pattern version (crane custom grind)
Lunati solid Voodoo #60141 ( or Lunati custom grind variation)
With what you got (3000 stall) and the purpose I would not go bigger than these cams.
All need a good exhaust system.
use a performer RPM and 750carb

A street tunnel ram + eddy carbs can still work.

These Dart heads come with different spring packages.
"K1 K2 etc" K1 is usually the stock entry level diameter "hyd cam" springs.
Get the spring package that matches your cam choice.

A Voodoo Solid street roller would be cool. Lunati #60132

[F-BIRD'88]

The Edelbrock Performer RPM Dual Quad air gap induction system would be cool on this truck.
(custom tuned Edelbrock 750carbs and carb spacers)

[F-BIRD'88]

Does this speed shop have Brodix heads?
Something to consider if you are going to buy speed parts
http://shiptotheborder.com/ogdensbur...rockville-area

http://www.jegs.com/i/Lunati/638/60141/10002/-1
These cams need good springs Usually a "K2" spring package.
New Lunati Part number 30120741
Lunati Cam grind number CS V8 V276S10

"Jegs" Profiler "USA head"
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=1593012