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Old 12-10-2008, 02:00 PM
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Opinion on block #880 roller

I would like as many opinions as I can get about this block. It is a late model roller small block casting # 880. ( ZZ4 ) roller block.
I could go the dart, world, bowtie route. But eating bologna soup for weeks just doesn't cut it for me, JUST to afford a great block.
I wanted to build a 395 +or- cube engine. 3.875 stroke 30 over. I have a jig to drill and tap the 11* splayed caps, so they are in ( not line bored ) I plan on filling the block to 1/2 way up the pump holes. ( not tanked/cleaned yet).
Before I spend the time and money to tank, line hone, deck/bore and fill the block. I would like to get an opinion from others who may have puttered with large cube small blocks. I been there before, chasing good money after bad.
Not going to be a high HP engine. would be happy with 425 and 375 tq out of it. ALL below 6800. Happy springs and reliabilty is what I am aiming for.
I know the work involved. small base cam ect. cast iron boogers....
Please feel free to kick my post around I have thick skin...
Thank-you for your time
Racin4Pennies
P. Rucker

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Old 12-10-2008, 02:38 PM
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It's probably already got 4 bolt mains, don't know if there is enough meat in that area to add splayed mains, but for that HP I don't see a need. I used the same block in a 383 build, required the usual grinding at the pan rail and also some up by the cam area. I used a standard base circle cam and just clearanced the rods, didn't take much, if I had gone with H-beams instead of I-beams I probably wouldn't have had to do any at all, with a 395 incher you shouldnt need to turn it anymore than 5500 to get the numbers you are after. A good set of heads and the right cam and you'll have 450 HP without a lot of effort.
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:03 PM
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your going way overboard just for 425 horses. 2 bolt main caps are good to 500 horsepower. The block doesn`t need to be splayed capped to support that power level nor does it need to be filled.
I take every 880 casting block I can get my hands on. There great blocks. Factory roller cam and windage tray you can`t go wrong.
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:08 PM
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Thank-you for the reply. I should have stated it was a 2 bolt main. If the 3.75 stroke crank fit with out toooo many problems and extra .100 should be that hard.
Aluminum heads Coughprocompcough. with alot of work into them. bowl work unshroud the valves...
Kinda like chroming a turd.. still a turd BUT I DID the polishing!
I did a short look through the posts but not many came up with opinions ON the 880 casting block. cam is still in the idea phaze.
.638/.638
@ .050 252/260
seperation ??? 107
c/l 106 ALL roughly guestimated solid roller application, usual roller's 1.52's. using a rev kit. easier on springs/valves ( not needing all that open pressure )
670 cfm vaccuum sec. RPM dual plane
1-7/8 3-1/2 open with 18" of tubing.
I dont want to brag about the parts just flat tops CH of 1.250 .043 rings light tention oil ring... 6" rods usual h-beam.
I been putting together dirt track engines for years this is a tad out of my realm. I'd like to build a stealthy large cube engine only someone with an educated ear will know it is bigger than advertised.
355 VS 396 and alot of low end.
Sorry for the longer' post
again Thank-you for your time.

Racin4Pennies
Phil
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racin4pennies
I would like as many opinions as I can get about this block. It is a late model roller small block casting # 880. ( ZZ4 ) roller block.
I could go the dart, world, bowtie route. But eating bologna soup for weeks just doesn't cut it for me, JUST to afford a great block.
I wanted to build a 395 +or- cube engine. 3.875 stroke 30 over. I have a jig to drill and tap the 11* splayed caps, so they are in ( not line bored ) I plan on filling the block to 1/2 way up the pump holes. ( not tanked/cleaned yet).
Before I spend the time and money to tank, line hone, deck/bore and fill the block. I would like to get an opinion from others who may have puttered with large cube small blocks. I been there before, chasing good money after bad.
Not going to be a high HP engine. would be happy with 425 and 375 tq out of it. ALL below 6800. Happy springs and reliabilty is what I am aiming for.
I know the work involved. small base cam ect. cast iron boogers....
Please feel free to kick my post around I have thick skin...
Thank-you for your time
Racin4Pennies
P. Rucker
880 is the mid 1995 up to end of production Vortec block and is also used in the ZZ3 and 4. Found in 2 and 4 bolt versions. It's about the roller equivalent of the 010 block, in other words, pretty decent as production blocks go.

Your combination sounds well within that blocks capabilites. I think the big thing is whether it's capable of going to 6800 RPM versus having to go there and do work such as in a circle track car; then you need to worry about how long it can be kept together. I'd highly recommend a good internal balance job for those kind of revs. This goes a long way toward reducing bottom end stresses.

I'm not to impressed with small core cams as a solution to rod clearance in these engines. The Chevy cam was always a bit on the edge where resisting bending moments from the valve gear between bearings was concerned. The small shafts tend to emphisis this and when operated with stiff valve springs are known to break. I think the better solution is the capscrew style rod with the upper shoulder clearanced for the cam. These produce the least material removal for the most clearance and since this is an area of some distance from the parting line between the cap and shank the threads are seeing much less load so it's safer to remove material in the area with this design.

Bogie
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:58 PM
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Cool legumes... ( beans right?) I agree with you on the small based cam. Guess the cam gear set-up wont work?!? ( mad scientist laughter ) The rods I had thought of using were the H-beam style with the 7/16's through bolt 12 point head.
This is great! I have the thought of measure a few times, then cut and grind to fit.... I don't like to play follow the leader. If a top running car, jacks up the right rear after a heat,,, every one else does it.
Getting a few great opinions helps. Different states, different tracks they HAVE what is the best set-ups. All those in that area run what the top runners do. Akin to be stuffed into a cubby hole, only seeing a small window of what works.
I Paint my cars with house paint and a roller.. the 20 ft rule. Looks good from 20ft LOOKS good from the stands. See? What works for me wont work for some one else.
Getting a wide range of opinions from ALL over will help.
enough rambling, a new toy this forum stuff.
Many thanks

Racin4Pennies
Phil
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Old 12-10-2008, 04:04 PM
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With that much stroke a 2 bolt main will not work as we have seen this episode to many times with 3.750 stroke engines and have seen caps move in there registers and going to 3.875 your asking to much out of a 2 bolt main block. Its the added stroke that will make the caps move not the HP in this case.

Also have the block sonic tested before you do anything and do go by the coreshift as that is not a good indicator to go by!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here are some good links on caps
http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652566
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38173


Here is a pic of an 880 casting with splayed caps
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Old 12-10-2008, 04:13 PM
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CNC Thank-you. I have a set of 11* splayed caps for this block. I have a jig that was made years ago. Drill bushing and 7/16's nuts welded on the other side to tap the outer holes. I have yet to have the 'real machine work done. Line hone ect. This was a 2 bolt block.
Getting educated opinions, before I toss the block at the machine shop.

Thank-you!

Racin4Pennies
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