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Old 12-16-2009, 07:11 PM
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Opinions on best year/model of chassis to...

stick under my street rod project. The plan is:

I am merging a 68 International Harvester Travelall (like a Suburban) with a 67 IH Pickup to create a crewcab. Yes, I know that IH made crewcabs (called Travelettes). But I am doing a couple of things different and for this project, the grafting/merging of the front cab of the Tall and the rear wall of the pickup cab is a better route.

This sheet metal is going onto a 90's era GM truck chassis. I want to use the 141.5" wheelbase and either a 1500 or 2500 type 2WD chassis. The idea is to use virtually stock running gear on the chassis - I'm not going to spend the time or $'s at the start to bling out or modify the running gear. I'm going to focus just on getting the transplant to run. I will also use the donor truck to scavenge other parts off of like power window hardware, HVAC unit and controls, wiper motor, cruise, wire harnesses and so on.

So I would like to hear opinions on which year/series truck would be the "best" to buy in order to donate it's chassis. Here are my goals in order of importance to me:
1) 141.5" 2WD GM truck chassis w/V8 and auto.
2) Want the donor truck to have AC,PS,PB,PW
3) Want the best year from the decade - the fewest problems with the stock truck.
4) May want to lower the suspension 2-4 inches using simple aftermarket gear. But this will not be slammed or anything.
....... bonus points from here on out......
5) Would be nice if it had PD and Cruise too
6) Really nice if it already had rear discs
7) Don't really care but highway mileage over 15 would be great.

Are there any good or bad years? Why?

Here's a sketch of the basic look I am after.
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Old 12-17-2009, 02:19 PM
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88-99 Extended

I worked with GM for years and here is my take on this. 1988 - 99 extended will give you a 141.5 in 1993 the 4L60E was installed a huge improvement over the 700R4 and if you are going that new I would jump to 96 or newer to get OBD2 much nicer to work with and the amount of info that the computer gives is light years ahead of the OBD1.

Dale
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Old 12-20-2009, 11:16 AM
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Thanks - very helpful!
And what are the basic differences between the "1500" and "2500" models?

And I can go either an extend cab w/short bed or reg cab with long bed and still get the 141.5, right?
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Old 12-20-2009, 12:33 PM
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Stay with a 1500 (1/2 ton) than the 2500 (3/4 ton) it would be much easier to convert and lower. You are correct ext short or standard long 141.5 my bad.

Dale
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:05 PM
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Focusing on '93 or newer Chevy or GMC 1500 2WD with extnd cab or long bed. I have started window shopping on Craigslist and I realized that I could also consider buying a donor truck that has a 5spd manual tranny. Long term I don't want the manual trans but I have a '95 1500 Burb 4x4 with an AT that I could donate to the project.

Is there more involved in a AT/5sp swap than just the transmission itself? Drive line? Computer? Kickdown stuff?
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:06 PM
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Tradeoffs

Been window shopping. The first tradeoff that I considered was the one between buying an intact running truck or to try and buy off somebody parting out a truck. I've decided to stay with an entire truck. I end up with more stuff than I need but I start with a known configuration that runs and I can strip a lot more off the truck for bling and refinements. I also established my upper limit for what I was willing to spend which is $2k.

Now I am officially on the hunt and here are a couple of other things I have to contend with. In that price range there aren't as many prospects but there are a few. However numbers wise there are "non-ideal" models that keep tempting me. I could also consider buying one with a shorter frame or a longer frame than what I want. This would be more work for me but increases the odds I will find one for the right price. Since 141-143" is my ideal model (which is the extended cab w/short box), if I went with either a Suburban or a single cab with long box I would get the 131" wheel base but have to lengthen the frame, driveshaft and some tubes and cables. If I went with the crew cab or extended cab long box, I would get a longer frame 155" and have to shorten it.

Anybody have opinions on whether I should consider the non-ideal models and which of the two (longer or shorter wheelbase) would be the lesser of two evils?

I'm thinking that longer would be the better of those two choices. Better to take away material than to add it...
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:43 PM
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Never effin mind... somebody kill this thread and put it out of it's misery!!!


Seriously.... moderator intervention!
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Old 02-05-2010, 05:52 AM
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Sorry, we dont delete threads.........besides, the info may be useful to someone.....I am going to move it to hot rodding basics,.......


One thing though.....Since you have that Suburban, why wouldn't you just use that chassis?
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