[eric32]

Hello guys I have decided to redo my top half of my engine for several reasons and an ongoing issue that is unable to be identified by me, several mechanics who no there stuff etc and I don't need to post a history book here.Found oil on plugs again. Have had to many issues with world heads.

I am going to get a different set of heads to hopefully get my engine fixed and to run better for everyday driver. My engine is in a chevy s10 with a 350 turbo 2000 stall with 3.42 rear end. This is an everyday driver that is not being setup up for racing etc.

Ok here is what I currently have
350 sbc flattop pistons
gm zz4 208/221 474/510 lift roller cam (should I change cam maybe?)
Edelbrock eps performer intake
Hei ignition with performance
Holley 670 street avenger just put back on engine.

The cylinder heads I was looking at are RHS pro action 180cc intake runner cast iron heads and I will be using all the valves,springs, and other stuff from my current world heads on them.

Basic question I have not really heard about them and are they any good and reputable for good quality machine work and do these heads seem to go with my setup way better then my bigger world heads? My world heads have to go so hope any users out there or anyone who knows about RHS can give some honest opinions.

[techinspector1]

Originally Posted by eric32

gm zz4 208/221 474/510 lift roller cam (should I change cam maybe?)

I don't see anything wrong with this cam for a daily driver, as long as the static compression ratio is between 8.0:1 and 9.5:1 and you're happy with the effective operating range.

Originally Posted by eric32

Edelbrock eps performer intake

Pick up 35 hp by changing to a RPM. It won't hurt the bottom.

Originally Posted by eric32

The cylinder heads I was looking at are RHS pro action 180cc intake runner cast iron heads and I will be using all the valves,springs, and other stuff from my current world heads on them.

These should work ok, but if it were mine, I'd be looking at RHS 12407 (cast iron guides) or 12410 (bronze guides). I'm a big fan of smaller, faster intake runners on a daily driver with a relatively short cam like the ZZ4.

Part of your oily plug problem could be that the intake isn't sealing against the heads at the bottom of the port. Please read this.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...al_vacuum_leak

[eric32]

Thanks techinspector for the input I looked at the vortec heads but they are stating +100 size on the valves and I only have standard length valves in my current heads and I am wanting to reuse all my stuff. I will mostl likely use the 180 intake port runner heads with the bronze guides but I don't know why stating "100 on the valves when they are bare heads. Am I missing something here? My plugs have been dry for the last several months must have started just recently.


I took plugs out to check them and I put my holley 670 on so wanted to look at plugs before I went to tune wise and I was shocked after all work I had done on heads and vacuum gauge does not show a low vacuum reading which would indicate a internal leak. Looking inside the intake its very clean with no oil residue what so ever. Reading is 19 but very slowly at a snails pace won't stay there and will go down to about 16 when it sputters bad but when it will smooth out (when it rarely runs like that) it will be about 18 19 with the needle slightly fluttering since is does have a performance cam but as the engine will just spit and sputter horribly and can't keep a nice smooth idle regardless.

Spent 200 bucks at a very good garage and had engine hooked to a oscilloscope and ignition was just fine except coil had to be replaced but they could not find anything but engine is getting worse wise and won't idle very well. Spit and sputters pretty bad here and there and almost stalls. Might have to do a vid and post on youtube.

Two intakes have been off and on four times and engine had done this for the last two years plus with no improvement. Cylinder heads did have guide clearance on the loose side and that was all take care off with better valve seals and plugs where all dry after running for several months no issues.

There is no smoking coming out exhaust at any time or running acceleration etc. Too much more to list here but block was decked not to zero but about .015 was done which is pretty close but have never had any intake line up issues.
Eric

Eric

[cool rockin daddy]

Can't believe you are going to tear this engine apart AGAIN! Tune your carb.

Do you mean you need .100 longer PUSHRODS? Can't see why you would need longer valves.

[ap72]

It could be valve guides, could be a million things. I would NOT just start throwing. Parts at it though. If your mechanic can't find the problem find one that can. Its a LOT cheaper than throwing parts at it.

[eric32]

Well first thing its not a carb problem have checked that long time ago. I know how tune a carburetor maybe not like an expert like some guys on here but I do know basic setting and tuning but not going to go there.

I have had nothing but an ongoing issue with my engine having a bad sputtering at idle and over 1000 plus rpm that can not be fixed. Will idle but just barley stay running at times in drive and does not stay consistent and you can hear it as plain as day and I took it too a garage that has equipment to have my ignition tested and all they could find wrong was a weak coil changed that and problem still persists.

I have spent countless hours time and effort in trying to locate the problem with one thing after the other happening and getting what needed to be fixed done with the one issue yet to be solved. I had problems with oil getting on plugs before and tore engine out and valve seals where stupid umbrella kind which are not supposed to be used with dual springs but that is what world put on them. My fault for not checking this upon buying them.

I spent over 400 plus on getting all new guides put in my heads and better type viton valve seals and this was done but a very good machine shop in ohio called watson ruple racing performance and they do very good stuff and all was rechecked and verified before heads where put on.

Thought because of oil getting on plugs was causing erratic combustion and was figuring that was my problem. Engine seemed to be just fine for only a very short time then the stumbling started to happened and at a very slow pace but issue has gotten worse. Compression test has been done and all cylinder's come out even. Bottom half of engine seems to be in order but something is wrong with this thing on top end some how. No amount of tinkering with a carb is going to fix this cause its not that. Everything that can be checked has been checked outside of taking engine back out which I am going to do here in about a month.

Reason I ask on if rhs cylinder heads are any good is I am not putting any more cash in world product heads if I keep having issues with the ones I have. Yes I hate doing this but this is my main set of wheels and I don't have any more time and places to waste my money and they not being able to find anything. Sorry if anyone takes offense here but was just asking about heads I know its sounds stupid of me doing this but something has to be done.

My Dad is my main mechanic outside of what I can do and he know's everything pretty much there is to know about cars and has built many stock and performance motors over the years that ran very well. He has spent a lot of time with me trying to find out what is wrong with this thing and has left him and others on here trying to help me out with suggestions and nothing has been able to resolve the stumbling sputtering misfire type issue. Oil on plugs again is head related and that is once again another issue on top of this one.

Yes I wish it was something as simple as a carb problem or a vacuum leak on a hose but all that and more on everything has been checked. But that issue is somehow has to be tied into my cylinder heads and intake somehow. Well guys sorry to write a book but I guess you seem to want to know why.

Well thanks for help guys all your support over the last two years has been appreciated. I hope rhs heads are good but I am looking into maybe brodix iron killer series 180cc heads as well. To many issues with world products heads and am not waisting any more on them.
Eric

[cool rockin daddy]

Sell the whole engine. Buy a Vortec head roller motor, put manifold, carb, and headers on it. Perfect daily driver. Happy motoring.

[eric32]

Well your either joking or being a smartalec but either way that is funny Sorry to say the thought has crossed my mind but I don't want to get rid of whole engine, bottom is fine just something going on again with heads and guides or intake cylinder head alignment. Going to have to take engine out either way and will have to pull off and check and see and go from there. Believe me I don't want to do this anymore then I have to but I can't just leave it go motor would be completely ruined in short time.
Eric