You're a very confused guy..... You make things a lot more difficult than they need to be.
reread my post and do exactly what I outlined. No more no less.
No ..the vacuum advance when adjusted properly will only add advance when you are cruising at high speed on the hiway. about 10deg.
It will modulate between 0 deg and 10deg of vacuum advance based on varfing engine vacuum, engine load and throttle position, just like it was intended.
When set up correctly with correct diaphram spring tension and limit it will add little or no additional advance at idle.
Reguardless of if you use ported or manifold vacuum.
Do not set the vac can to add all the vac advance at idle.
It would then just stay pegged at all times and not do what its supposed to do. You don't want that.
You don;t need 48deg at idle.
Your cam is not big enough to actually require locked advance.
26deg base static initial is just right. No box retard/advance required beyond the auto retard cranking function, little or no vacuum advance at idle needed 36 total mechanical is just right.
reinstall the advance weights and springs and create a 10deg advance curve in the distributor. 10deg only. no more no less. It should start just off idle speed and finish 2800-3000 rpm. No faster no slower.
adding 10 deg of additional vacuum advance at high speed cruise is just right.
The additional 10deg of vacuum advance must modulate based on the engine load/throttle input.
If the vacuum advance is too agressive, it will knock as you roll into the throttle from cruise speed.
Try my method of hot starting. When its real hot kick it over with no spark count 1-2-3-4, then throw the spark on. It will fire instantly as soon as you throw the switch.. The first few cranks will not fire cause the air fuel mix is just too friggin hot and way over rich. Crank it over to get the crap that wont burn anyways out of the cylinders and new fresh combustable stuff in that will burn. Then make up some theory....
Of the 5 years now on this car I've been running locked timing and a switch to aid real hot starting I have never had to attempt more than twice to start it. It starts instantly first time 90% of the time.
If the starter does buck back instead of fireing up instantly ,, on the first attempt using my method do not try to crank thru it. Stop and do it again.
38deg is more than nessessary 99.9999% of the time.
Usually indicates the jetting is not right and or the timing pointer is not accurate.
Use the auto matic spark retard function only to aid starting.
If this won't work your starter motor got pooched by the header heat.
Get a new one and a starter wrap and a starter shield.
When the engine pushes back on the starter its because that cylinder misfired, half hearted fired, (incomplete combustion) Cause the air fuel ratio is not right. (too hot too rich) When the air fuel mix is just right ( fresh air and fuel drawn thru the carb and into the engine) and not overheated, the engine fires instantly without push back.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 06-01-2010 at 08:06 PM.