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Old 04-08-2013, 07:50 AM
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optimal oiling for flat tappet sbc

I have a 1984 305 sbc that im setting up for road trips low rpm long drives some city mostly highway. I have 2 oil pumps, a high volume summit one, and a very lightly used oem mercruiser one. the merc one had almost 50 lbs pressure hot at idle whene the block cracked from not being winterized properly here in NY. I also have a trough shaped long windage tray, I have short flat one with no drain holes in it, and I have one from a vortec 350 that is long and flat with drain holes in it. looking to use the best parts I have. what do these differing trays do? which pump would work better? the clearances in the crank are tight. is there galley or drainback holes that could be enlarged to help strategically oil the cam at low rpm? how about porting the maincap oiling hole? is there more stuff I can improve home in the garage?

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Old 04-08-2013, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by s-10again! View Post
is there galley or drainback holes that could be enlarged to help strategically oil the cam at low rpm? how about porting the maincap oiling hole? is there more stuff I can improve home in the garage?
Not sure if any of it will amount to a hill of beans, but here are my thoughts.....
With tight clearances, I would run a stock pump. With a stock pan, I would run a stock pump. I don't want any more pressure on the pump drive gear than it has to have. Any windage tray you use will help to keep oil off the crank, but I'm not sure that's a good idea on an endurance daily driver motor. I would want oil flying everywhere to lube the cam. That's the only way it gets lubed, is from the crank throwing oil all over the crankcase. I might be interested in grooving the lifter bores, particularly if I were going to run a lot of valve spring pressure and increased revs. That puts pressurized oil directly where it needs to be and probably wouldn't account for more than a 5 psi loss of pressure if you did it correctly.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-5003/overview/
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:58 PM
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Im using the centra-lube lifters on my solid cam. Clean up drain holes in heads and front and rear of intake valley. Some guys will argue about painting but I have always used Glyptal to smooth things out. Stock pump will give you 35-40 psi which is plenty. A new pump is cheap, all things considered. (Sombody help me here, I cant remember the Melling number, you know, the one with the improved base, that wont brake off.) Use the windage tray with the drains, if it will fit in your stock pan. Dont forget proper break in and proper oil.
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:12 PM
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I think you're trying to fix something that aint broke. Well built small block ought to run 200,000 to 300,000 mile with no trick parts.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:35 PM
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I think you're trying to fix something that aint broke. Well built small block ought to run 200,000 to 300,000 mile with no trick parts.
I know your right but im an ambitional optimist. thanx for the insight.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:45 PM
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stock pump and port the main cap. porting the cap relieves a bit of stress on the pump and when done right can free up a couple of horses according to master builder david vizard. too much oil psi is not a good thing. I was blowing oil out of seals with a high volume pump and tight clearances. windage tray with drain holes.
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Not sure if any of it will amount to a hill of beans, but here are my thoughts.....
With tight clearances, I would run a stock pump. With a stock pan, I would run a stock pump. I don't want any more pressure on the pump drive gear than it has to have. Any windage tray you use will help to keep oil off the crank, but I'm not sure that's a good idea on an endurance daily driver motor. I would want oil flying everywhere to lube the cam. That's the only way it gets lubed, is from the crank throwing oil all over the crankcase. I might be interested in grooving the lifter bores, particularly if I were going to run a lot of valve spring pressure and increased revs. That puts pressurized oil directly where it needs to be and probably wouldn't account for more than a 5 psi loss of pressure if you did it correctly.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-5003/overview/
common sense physics are telling me that the windage tray would keep oil ON the crank and there should be more oil slung from crank scooping up oil from the tray that holds the most oil. there must be a concept im missing in there somewhere.
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s-10again! View Post
common sense physics are telling me that the windage tray would keep oil ON the crank and there should be more oil slung from crank scooping up oil from the tray that holds the most oil. there must be a concept im missing in there somewhere.
The windage tray just as it says. It prevents oil being scooped up and/or aerated by the crank at high RPM. Milodon actually makes one of the best, called the Diamond Scraper. It mounts very close to the leading edge of the crankshft and helps return oil to the pan. You are right though, oil is flung from between the rods and mains and is thrown up on the camshaft regardless of windage tray.
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:39 PM
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oil is flung from between the rods and mains and is thrown up on the camshaft regardless of windage tray.
Hopefully......
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:56 AM
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is a scraper different than a windage tray? I may be confusing part names. ive seen scrapers, I don't have anything like a crank scraper. the trays im talking about come inside stock engines and APPEAR to hold oil against the crank, far from a scraper which hugs the crank as to scrape off oil and shed it to the pan. ive seen those I don't have anything close to a scraper. im very confused here. this flat tappet engine will see hours of constant 1500rpm use, with and without loads. seems odd that the tray could stop oil from slinging off the crank if it is holding the spinning crank inside a lake of oil! why are there so many different sized trays?

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Old 04-12-2013, 08:42 AM
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I also have a suggestion if you are concerned with ensuring your oil has enough ZDDP for the flat tappet cam. Mobil 1 15w50 is formulated with additional ZDDP (1300 ppm, I believe) and is appropriate for use in an older engine.

There are other oils with similar ZDDP levels, but Mobil 1 often goes on sale at Advance Auto and the other strip mall parts stores, and that makes it much cheaper and easier to find than most of the alternatives. I only change oil about twice a year (don't drive my truck much), so I can always pick up oil whenever it goes on sale.

Bruce
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Old 04-12-2013, 04:33 PM
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Scraper mounts on the leading edge of the pan and helps clean oil from the rotating crank weights as they rotate. The windage tray, like I said in a previous post, prevents the oil in the pan from becoming aerated and picked up by the crank. It wont stop oil from being thrown from the crank onto the camshaft. I think you are worrying too much. Put a windage tray in it and a decent standard volume pump, use the right oil and drive it.
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