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Old 03-20-2005, 04:24 PM
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Orange Peel After Sandblasting

I recently restarted (for the fifteenth time) my car project. This is my first frame off restoration/build. I have a blast cabinet where i am using black beauty to clean my pieces. I have finished my upper and lower control arm cross shafts and some other smaller front suspension pieces. I used Duponts Variprime Self-Etching primer followed by Nason's 2k Hi-Build primer, I finished these smaller pieces with Eastwoods Detail gray. The gray is the color I was looking for , unfortunately the pieces look rough (like they have orange peel ) I don't necessarily mind this do to the actual visibility of these items. I am getting ready to do the upper and lower control arms, what I am worried about is I don't want these piece to turn out the same way... Now, I know I can grind away the "orange peel" or use filler to smooth the pieces, I was actually wondering if I etch prime and 2k prime these pieces and use the Dupont "Ful-Thane" 2k Urethane top coat on these pieces will the Urethane "flow out" to give a semi smooth/smooth finish? Will the pieces look the same as the stuff top coated with the Eastwood paint? Just to clarify the paint finish looks like "Orange peel" due to the years of grime and rust coming off of the pieces when I blast them. My finish coat does not have "Orange peel". I might be able to post some images if this is confusing...

Thanks for anybody's opinion...

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Old 03-20-2005, 07:31 PM
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Not sure exactly what your saying for sure.

The pieces will be pitted from years of weathering.Blasting with any type of aggresive media will also pit the piece as well.
I don't understand why,if your using a build primer, why you still have a rough surface unless your not building the primer enough.No,It won't fill up a "hole" but the pitting from blasting should be gone.
OR,
Are you saying the actual paint is o'peeling after shooting it?
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Old 03-20-2005, 08:44 PM
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I think what you forgetting is the 2K (I assume you mean urethane) needs to be "surfaced" once sprayed. If you prime it and then sand it smooth it should eliminate your problem.
Brian
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Old 03-21-2005, 11:04 AM
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The parts themselves have pitting. I guess it may be a combination of not building the 2k urethane primer and not sanding before top coating.... I was told that if you wait approx. an hour that you would not have to sand the 2k. I guess even if that is true, if I want a smoother finsh I need to sand these pieces. A buddy of mine did his frame, I remember all he did was had it blasted primed it with primer (not a build primer) and top coated it with an enamel. The enamel "flowed out" to look incredibly smooth. I guess I'm wondering if i'm going through steps that I do not need to. The Eastwood detail gray is a thin topcoat so I really was not surprised at the outcome. Will the Fullthane acrylic urethane act like the enamel did and flow out? The last paint I sprayed was acrylic enamel and that was over 10yrs now.
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Old 03-21-2005, 07:56 PM
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I personally would just use epoxy and then the Fullthane.
We just did a 59 P/U frame last winter this way and it look's beautiful,for a frame anyway. I'd be concerned using too much of a build up of anything on chassie parts,when it does chip,it will be a big one.Unless of course,it's a show dog.
And yes, you DO have to sand primer for a smooth finish.
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Old 03-21-2005, 09:10 PM
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2K is meant to be sanded/blocked. Just layering it on coat after coat to try and fill pits will build up the mil thickness too much and those parts will be prone to chip. For a smooth surface you are going to have to apply the 2K, block sand the parts, reprime and reblock until the surface is smooth and all the pits are filled.

Your other option of course is to use a lightweight body filler or 2 part polyester putty to fill the pits and sand smooth then etch and 2K, final sand and paint.

It takes a lot of time to detail these parts to look nice.
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Old 03-22-2005, 08:05 PM
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Fellas, thanks for your replies... It sounds to me like I need to prep my pieces with a little filler, sand them smooth and finish coat. From what I have read in other threads in this forum, I should probably switch to epoxy on my bare metal pieces, with a little 2k to smooth them more then finish coat them. I am not building a high point show piece by any means, I guess I'm just picky. Thanks for all of your input.
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Old 03-22-2005, 08:20 PM
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Listen, you are not "picky", you just want to do the best you can. If you have some real deep pits you may want to think about polyester primer after the epoxy. It will fill anything a skim coat of filler will.
Brian
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Old 03-22-2005, 09:08 PM
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Thanks for the advice... I guess I have to make another materials run to Napa where I bought my last supplies. I was talked into it by a friend due to his dad working there (His dad could hook me up...) he suggested the self etch primer with the 2k primer. From what I have been reading I wish I would have found this forum first. It looks like I really need to shelf the self etch and 2k until I get to the body panels... It sounds as if it may be more useful there. I think in the meantime I will get some DuPont epoxy. Do you recommend a polyester primer in the DuPont line? I'm asking about DuPont because a store almost right next to where I work just switch from Sikkens to Dupont and it is just to convenient... Again I do appreciate the information...
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Old 03-22-2005, 09:36 PM
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Ask their recomendation on products (and get back to us )
The Nason epoxy is a good product for the price.
Dupont dosen't make body filler's.But the jobber should carry some.
As for a poly-putty/filler,Evercoat's line of 2 part (putty & hardner) are VERY good products. I prefer their Metal Glaze.
Be SURE to message the tube of hardner well before using EACH time as it will seperate in the tube resulting in an improper hardening of the putty. Another thing,It will cure FAST,like 5 min.fast,so don't mix very much at a time and have your area ready for it. You can reduce the amount of hardner a little to make your working time a little longer if needed.
Pick up some plastic spreaders too. Just leave the residual putty gooped on them and as soone as it's cured,bend the spreader and it will flake off.Finish cleaning with some lacquer thinner and you can reuse the spreaders.
You can apply the putty ON TOP of the epoxy if you like(after it's cured,scuffing with some 80gt)as this is not a problem with adhesion.
Granted,This will cost you some $$$ Around $45/qt.for the epoxy & hardner and say $20 for the Evercoat,So get to know the jobber and his "buddy" price

Last edited by Bee4Me; 03-22-2005 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 03-22-2005, 10:14 PM
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I may be wrong but I don't remember DuPont having a polyester primer. You could get some from NAPA, part number 5190 is relabeled Evercoat Featherfill and 15205 is relabeled PCL.
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Old 03-23-2005, 07:22 PM
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Thanks for all the help and pointing me in the right direction... No doubt you will be hearing more of me...

Thanks again
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