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Old 07-26-2011, 11:20 AM
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Orange Peel in Clear..?

I been reading alot for tips and ideas but haven't posted...

Here's a little background on my experience: I worked in a well known production bodyshop in my area for around 5 years, straight out of highschool some 15 years ago. The shop was divided into seperate areas, bodywork, paint and detail, so my experience is mainly in the body area. The project I've taken on went smooth until it became time for paint and here's where I somewhat lost.

I sprayed the entire car w/a Shop Line brand 2K primer. The primer went on smooth and wetsanded out beautiful.

Then I sparayed the car w/a Omni brand basecoat RED. The paint went on beautiful.

Here's the part where I'm scratching my head. The clear was done within the recommended 24 hour winow (actually about 1 hour after base was done) and the ENTIRE car came out in a heavily oranged peel look. The clear is also Shop Line brand.

I still have all the parts left to spray like bumpers, gas cap, etc, etc and don't want to go through the same troubles of having to wetsand all the orange peel out. I was hoping some advice could steer me in the right direction. Something has to be wrong b/c from what I remember sometimes the clear would come out so good all it took to get a customers car out the door was a quick polish...?

Thanks in advance for ANY input.

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Old 07-26-2011, 01:33 PM
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A lot of reasons for clear not to flow out real well,
usually gun settings and technique.
But the wrong temp range activator, and/or reducer
or reduction rate all play a part.
I find slowing down the clear usually gives a better finish,
so I usually use the slower even when it's not needed.
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:18 PM
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Ohhhhh man, after reading a few older "Orange Peel in the Clear" threads I really hope I didn't screw up by shooting the whole car and not doing a test panel first. The orange peel in my case seems kind of excessive. I already broke threw to the base on one panel trying to cut it down.

Thanks JC for your input. What do you mean by slowing down the clear...???

The gun I used to shoot the clear is a Cobalt brand w/a 1.4 tip. My buddy who works for the US Post office painting their trucks lent it to me. He said it was already adjusted for clear to just fill and shoot. It appeared to shoot quick, but cover well on some paper before I started spraying the car as long as I kept my movements fast paced so I didn't adjust anything on the gun.

I'm getting scared I'm going to have to re-block, re-mask and re-shoot the whole darn thing.
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Old 07-26-2011, 03:20 PM
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http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...your%20gun.htm

Any time you change brands of clear or even different clears you need to readjust your gun until it shoots wet and slick. We use various grades of reducers to adjust the "dry time" of the clear to suit our conditions. Slowing he cure rate allows the clear to flow out better.

Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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Old 07-26-2011, 05:31 PM
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I always tell the counter guy at the paint store to not put any peel in it.

Now that was no help at all for you, but this link will be:
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...your%20gun.htm
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Old 07-27-2011, 07:01 AM
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Thanks guys for your help. I've read alot in other threads about how a good gun is key. If I can't get the Cobalt special to work right the next time or two around I'm going to look into picking one up.

So I tried wet sanding this orange peel out by hand and it was taking me forever...!! I picked up a waterbug DA and some 1000 grit paper for it. My question is how far do I want to go in removing the orange peel..?? 100%..? I tried that on my roof and broke through. I've since slowed the machine down and been checking often. I'm not sure here b/c I've also never polished a car so I have no clue how much the buffer will remove if any...??

I'm looking at picking up a complete buffing and polishing set by Liquid Ice from Eastwood...??
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:46 AM
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I do my coarse 800-1500 grit colorsanding by hand. Put a piece of sandpaper in a bucket of water for about 20 minutes or so then wrap it around a firm surface or put it on a sanding block and proceed to sand, caount ten strokes and then dry the surface with a towel. let the surface dry thoroughly. Check the surface for even dullness, if there are tiny pinholes of a different color, you're ready to color sand with the next finer paper. The reason I say to count your strokes is so you have a guideline of what it takes to cut the peel out and not cut to the basecoat.
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:51 PM
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use a window squeege and work in small areas. when its flat it will squeege flat and dry. if there is still orange peel you will see the bumps when you squeege it. there is no reason to sand flatter than flat and risk hitting color.
you have to sand it flat. the buffer will just shine the orange peel.
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Old 07-27-2011, 08:39 PM
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Thanks for the help fellas...

I found this in another thread and if true, could very well be a major factor in my results being I threw on each coat of clear immediately working myself in a circle around the car 3x's... haha. Ohhhh well live and learn.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 Jaw Chuck
Urethane enamels will orange peel if the flash coats are not dry enough between coats (orange peel is caused by paint wrinkling as it dries), put less paint on with each pass and let each coat flash off for at least 30-40 minutes (depending on reducer). Make the last coat wet and the build coats a little drier. Make sure your fans are running in between coats to help evaporate the reducer out of the paint.

Don't rush to get paint on the car, a good paint job can take 8 hours if your doing multiple coats.
Another tip for anyone reading this as a rookie like myself encountering the same problem/s... I was overwhelmed by looking at the entire car in a giant coat of orange peel. Attack each panel one by one and I'm finding the car isn't sooo big after all.
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