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  #151 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2012, 08:07 AM
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I live in Portland, Or, and have been trying to get Ospho locally. I finally found it at a "Wilco", a local farm supply type store.

I will see how it works for me.

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  #152 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2012, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielC
I live in Portland, Or, and have been trying to get Ospho locally. I finally found it at a "Wilco", a local farm supply type store.

I will see how it works for me.
Whatcha workin on Dan C ? Take some pics if you can and post your results.
Nobody disputes how well it removes rust and protects metal against surface rust ,I guess the real question is the adheasion of the epoxy primer when Ospho is used, so take particular care when preping for primer..
BTW,just curious I assume you bought a qt ,how much did it cost at that hardware store...The prices seem to vary quite a bit from coast to coast.
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  #153 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2012, 09:51 AM
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I have been working on bits and pieces of old Datsun Pickups, the 521 model. The price I paid was $9.89 for a quart, and that was the real price. No sales tax here in Oregon.
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  #154 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2012, 07:23 AM
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Thats pretty cheap,I've seen it as high as 30.00 a qt
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  #155 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2012, 10:19 AM
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I have been doing some work with the Ospho. I think I an getting a good idea of how to use it in my situation.
It seems to work pretty good, like most produces with phosphoric acid in them. Is it better, I do not know yet.

About the controversy of using a acid type metal conditioner under epoxy primer. It appears with some primers you can, other primers you cannot, I think it boils down to this.
READ THE DATA SHEETS!
If you are using a primer with the word "etch" in the name, the primer probably has a acid in the primer, and problems may occur if applied over "conditioned" metal, without a through cleaning, or neutralizing, and sanding. By "conditioned" metal, I mean steel that has been cleaned with Ospho, PPG metal conditioner, Dupont metal conditioner, Naval Jelly, or even Coca-Cola, all these products contain phosphoric acid.

However, some epoxy primers may work just fine on Ospho treated metal. I have been using PPG DPLF, with 401LF hardener.
In the data sheet for PPG DPLF, is the phrase:
"chemical treatment or the use of a conversion coating will enhance the adhesion and performance properties of the finished system"

Below that, after a direction for aluminium, is the phrase:
Prime carbon steel immediately after cleaning.

But I am still in the remove rust stage. What I have been doing is using the Ospho, on some thinly painted surfaces with a fair amount if rust. The Ospho may have the advantage of not needing an immediate covering with primer. When I am ready to prime, sanding, or another treatment and immediate cleaning with the Ospho, or just "normal" metal conditioner.
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  #156 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2012, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Thats pretty cheap,I've seen it as high as 30.00 a qt
yup, I'm the one paid that.
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  #157 (permalink)  
Old 06-29-2012, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielC View Post

But I am still in the remove rust stage. What I have been doing is using the Ospho, on some thinly painted surfaces with a fair amount if rust. The Ospho may have the advantage of not needing an immediate covering with primer. When I am ready to prime, sanding, or another treatment and immediate cleaning with the Ospho, or just "normal" metal conditioner.
When I'm ready to prime I always sand with some 180(or a scuff pad for irregular surfaces),clean with W&G remover and prime.
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  #158 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2012, 02:24 PM
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Great info

I was looking around for info on rust treatment. I found this thread and read most of it. To bad the videos are gone. Did you get them loaded on YouTube? I will be trying this out on my '65 when I get back to it...
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  #159 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2012, 03:45 PM
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Hey DBM, you must remember me from a couple of years ago. O'm glad you're still atound on this forum. Just out of the blue I decided to Google ospho today and it looks like it's now available in Canada. Caswell Canada*::*REPAIR PRODUCTS*::*Ospho Rust Inhibitor*::*Ospho Rust Inhibitor
Is it the one I need, the same as in U.S.?
For the meanwhile I used naval jelly and it works fine. I think I use it similarly to how you use ospho. Only that I apply a really thick coat and leave it overnight or for a few hours. I don't keep it wet by spraying water on it. Then I remove all the residue (white film/sand-probably iron phosphate or rust leftovers) and reapply until all rust is gone. Every time I wire brush the area and reapply naval jelly. It removes all the rust 100%. Then I wire brush or sand the area and apply POR15 since the metal has already been etched by naval jelly (actually I use KBS Coatings instead of por). In any case I use por because I couldn't find an epoxy primer that was recommended to me on this website. So hard to find anything good in Canada.
Now if I order that ospho, what would be the difference in results that I get by using naval jelly? You said that you use it to remove rust but naval jelly removes it as well no problem.
So what you do is you use 180 sandpaper to sand the metal after all the rust is gone with ospho? Why do you use wax and grease remover after that? What's there to degrease if by removing all the rust and sanding the bare metal you already removed a thin layer of metal off the bare metal. Anything that might have been on the metal is removed/scratched off/ sanded away. I wonder if I'm missing something.
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  #160 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2012, 03:52 PM
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Hey DBM, your PM box is full...
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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2012, 04:51 PM
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oleg, you use a wax and grease remover before any painting operation. Even fingerprints will cause problems under the paint, the wax and grease remover (or just wipe with mineral spirits or paint thinner) removes every trace that could cause problems like "fish eye".
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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2012, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olegplanets View Post
Hey DBM, you must remember me from a couple of years ago. O'm glad you're still atound on this forum. Just out of the blue I decided to Google ospho today and it looks like it's now available in Canada. Caswell Canada*::*REPAIR PRODUCTS*::*Ospho Rust Inhibitor*::*Ospho Rust Inhibitor
Is it the one I need, the same as in U.S.?
For the meanwhile I used naval jelly and it works fine. I think I use it similarly to how you use ospho. Only that I apply a really thick coat and leave it overnight or for a few hours. I don't keep it wet by spraying water on it. Then I remove all the residue (white film/sand-probably iron phosphate or rust leftovers) and reapply until all rust is gone. Every time I wire brush the area and reapply naval jelly. It removes all the rust 100%. Then I wire brush or sand the area and apply POR15 since the metal has already been etched by naval jelly (actually I use KBS Coatings instead of por). In any case I use por because I couldn't find an epoxy primer that was recommended to me on this website. So hard to find anything good in Canada.
Now if I order that ospho, what would be the difference in results that I get by using naval jelly? You said that you use it to remove rust but naval jelly removes it as well no problem.
So what you do is you use 180 sandpaper to sand the metal after all the rust is gone with ospho? Why do you use wax and grease remover after that? What's there to degrease if by removing all the rust and sanding the bare metal you already removed a thin layer of metal off the bare metal. Anything that might have been on the metal is removed/scratched off/ sanded away. I wonder if I'm missing something.
SPI epoxy primer is available in Canada.
Give them a call and they'll give you contact info.

Do not use a POR type paint as your primer. If it peels of in sheets later, you'll be sorry.

Taking off all the black is good as there will still be rust underneath, on the heavy rust areas. Repeat as you're doing until all rust is gone and then use epoxy primer. Since the rust is gone, you don't need to use and "magic" paints as a base.
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2012, 05:54 PM
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I understand that but if you wire brush and sandpaper there is nothing left, no fingerprints, nothing. Then wipe it off with a clean towel. Not only that, but I also heard that if you use a paint thinner etc. it will leave a thin film layer when it dries which will cause serious adhesion problems.
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  #164 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2012, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olegplanets View Post
I understand that but if you wire brush and sandpaper there is nothing left, no fingerprints, nothing. Then wipe it off with a clean towel. Not only that, but I also heard that if you use a paint thinner etc. it will leave a thin film layer when it dries which will cause serious adhesion problems.
Use the wax and grease remover.

It doesn't hurt and you never know when the acid from your hands is not completely sanded off.

Is it a cost issue or are you looking for the best method?
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2012, 08:37 PM
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Not a cost issue at all, just trying to make it as simple as possible. Less steps, less chances of screwing something up. Does this wax remover leave any sort of film behind it? Do I need to rinse it with water? If so, it's an additional complication and I don't want to complicate the job unless it clearly affects its quality. For example if rust was removed near seams/crevices and I have to spray water to clean the wax remover than it can get inside and take days to dry.
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