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  #271 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 07:45 AM
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Thanks for posting the pics Mike.

John

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  #272 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 07:46 AM
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I gotta make this quick because I'm running late this morning...Brian you'll need those smaller wheels later on and for edging and tight spots I have a whole collection of wire wheels the problem you might be having is the bristles arnt stiff enough and the drill is too fast and just polishing the rusted spots...try slowing it down and really pressing it down into the pits...get the black out..but you wont get shiny steel on a lot of it ...,it'll be darker but not black...heres a pic for you to compare...to zoom in click the last pic then clic again you can see the pitts clearly thats ready for primer....if your trying to get it to look like new steel your wasting your time but whats NOT badly rusted sure looks like new steel...
John that rust mort seems to be working pretty well I dont know which is stronger the reason I prefer Ospho is because when I used it everything turned black even the good metal mabee I did something wrong back then it was over 15 yrs ago so I may have to revise my opinion of it....

That is exactly what I was thinking, they are pretty stiff, as they were the stiffest they had in that 1/4" mandrel driven wheel. They have stiffer ones with a 3/8" (or is it 7/16"?) for the small grinders I think. I don't have a single tool that uses it so I got the one I did. My only working electric is a MONSTER I use for the shrinking disc I don't even want to think about using for this. But I'll get myself the smaller electric, I need one anyway.

Thanks guys!

Brian
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  #273 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Thanks for posting the pics Mike.

John
I see it, and that is what I am getting if you look at what I have done. But damn it's still a lot of work, no magic yet. I am hoping Skyco comes out with a magic wand that takes away the rust, that's what I am thinking we need.

Brian

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  #274 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 11:40 AM
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You would not believe how gitty I am right now! A solution to this whole friggin thing just hit me! In the midst of working on this roof and having it kick my ever loving butt it hit me that I am more than willing to open up my wallet and have the floor and firewall sand blasted at the local blaster. But how the heck will I have it done, mark off the panels I don't want them to touch, ok, but I want the bottom of the floor done and how will I have them do that, roll the cab over to do it? Do the floor first, get it back and epoxy prime it, then bring it back for the rest? Then it hit me this morning, add a couple of braces of tubing up off the cart I made for the cab and bolt the cab to it leaning on it's back! WHOOO HOOOO, holy schimmolly what a great idea!

I'll do the roof and get it all welded on, then modify the cart to bolt the cab laying on it's back up off the cart. Put it on the tow truck over to the sand blasters, they blast the floor underside and top, cowl inside out, the door jambs, then I bring it over to the shop and epoxy prime the whole cab in the booth, WHOOO HOOOOO!

Back to your normally scheduled thread...........

Brian
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  #275 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 12:58 PM
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Okay DBM here are some photos like I said earlier at about the 50 min. mark. Notice my red shop rag turned bluish black. Years ago with a lot of rust treatments when it turned black you had this scratch it to make sure there was no rust beneath it. I don't see that anymore on the directions. You just can't beat white metal and a little zinc residue to combat rust. I take it a step further I seal it with an airtight seal followed by an automotive primer then paint. I call the double whammy.
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  #276 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pats55 View Post
Okay DBM here are some photos like I said earlier at about the 50 min. mark. Notice my red shop rag turned bluish black. Years ago with a lot of rust treatments when it turned black you had this scratch it to make sure there was no rust beneath it. I don't see that anymore on the directions. You just can't beat white metal and a little zinc residue to combat rust. I take it a step further I seal it with an airtight seal followed by an automotive primer then paint. I call the double whammy.
Looking good! Can't wait to try it.

Brian
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  #277 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:29 PM
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Ok Mike, I was going to stop by HF and get an angle grinder but you know how I feel about that place. So I went over to my REAL hardware store in town and the guy gave me a discount on a Dewalt 4.5 inch angle grinder for $49.99, so now I need to know which wire wheel.

One like this, super aggressive "knotted wire"



Or the little tamer one like this.



These suckers aren't cheap so I am asking instead of just buying blindly.

Brian
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  #278 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:34 PM
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I was just looking for some grinding wheels on line and came across a discussion on these little grinders and I was thrilled to see that the cheapies can vibrate a lot and guys switching to a quality grinder and it's gone. I sure as heck hate to save three dollars and 29 cents to work my body harder, it just isn't worth it!

Brian
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  #279 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I was just looking for some grinding wheels on line and came across a discussion on these little grinders and I was thrilled to see that the cheapies can vibrate a lot and guys switching to a quality grinder and it's gone. I sure as heck hate to save three dollars and 29 cents to work my body harder, it just isn't worth it!

Brian
yes, exactly! When my B&D dies I will get a better one, like DeWalt. I got a second B&D because I thought I made it leak grease by just using cheapie brushes that weren't balanced well, and this threw the rotating mechanism all out of balance and ruined it. But my second one is starting to leak grease in the same areas and I haven't used it that much. I've used expensive ones (like DeWalt) before and they are smooth.

Also, don't get the cheapie wire wheels because they aren't balanced well. And make sure the wire wheel you get is rated for the speed of your grinder, sometimes they're actually rated slower.
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  #280 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Ok Mike, I was going to stop by HF and get an angle grinder but you know how I feel about that place. So I went over to my REAL hardware store in town and the guy gave me a discount on a Dewalt 4.5 inch angle grinder for $49.99, so now I need to know which wire wheel.

One like this, super aggressive "knotted wire"



Or the little tamer one like this.



These suckers aren't cheap so I am asking instead of just buying blindly.

Brian
The bottom one will put your eyes out,,, Always use the top one..It will out last the bottom one hands down..
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  #281 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
yes, exactly! When my B&D dies I will get a better one, like DeWalt. I got a second B&D because I thought I made it leak grease by just using cheapie brushes that weren't balanced well, and this threw the rotating mechanism all out of balance and ruined it. But my second one is starting to leak grease in the same areas and I haven't used it that much. I've used expensive ones (like DeWalt) before and they are smooth.

Also, don't get the cheapie wire wheels because they aren't balanced well. And make sure the wire wheel you get is rated for the speed of your grinder, sometimes they're actually rated slower.
The better ones are CRAZY expensive like $28! But if that is what it takes, and more importantly if they last that much longer I have no problem with that.

Now mind you, I am as CHEAP as they come. But I have found being too cheap costs you more money!

Brian
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  #282 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 09:06 PM
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would you pay $28, just once, if it meant you wouldn't vibrate the **** out of your hands as well as potentially risk damaging your tool?
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  #283 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 09:07 PM
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would you pay $28, just once, if it meant you wouldn't vibrate the **** out of your hands as well as potentially risk damaging your tool?
HELL YES I would, exactly, ok I am sold. They had one attachment, "diamond grinder" or something like that. It's for grinding concrete and stuff like that. I guess it almost never wears out?It looks like solid steel and it's $70! The guy (who I know and trust) told me he has one and it's the cats meow.

Brian
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  #284 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2013, 10:58 PM
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A few years ago, my Skil 957 angle grinder died. I refused to buy a made in china grinder, and found a German company, Metabo.
I do not know if the link will survive editing, but here is is anyway.
Home - Metabo USA - Power tools built by professionals for professionals

I am really impressed with the 9" grinder I bought.
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  #285 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2013, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Ok Mike, I was going to stop by HF and get an angle grinder but you know how I feel about that place. So I went over to my REAL hardware store in town and the guy gave me a discount on a Dewalt 4.5 inch angle grinder for $49.99, so now I need to know which wire wheel.

One like this, super aggressive "knotted wire"



Or the little tamer one like this.



These suckers aren't cheap so I am asking instead of just buying blindly.

Brian
Thats tough to choose only one I'd have to say get both and see which one works best for YOU but get them at HF they're pretty good,I use them a lot......I gotta tell ya Brian I went with the HF grinder because I didnt want to ruin my good grinder,I tried the hf wire wheels and found that although they didnt last as long they did a good job and even though you can spend a lot more for wheels it dont mean they're going to be better ,look to see where they're made. Sometimes even though its a good name it might still be made in china...remember your working with acid so so you dont really want the best quality stuff you can get...BTW the red wheels look just like the HF ones and I dont have any problems using them at all.I kinda like them You still have my number so when you get out there give me a call if you have trouble..
its still a lot of dirty nasty work and by no means a mirical cure
the softer cups work great for getting the loose rust off when you run it over the rust dry at the beginning ...when I did the inside of my car It was so bad I had to have a couple drop lights so I could see...
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