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  #331 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Brian, I know its a bit early to say but whats your first impression of the master rust remover???? I also ordered some last week to try...
Is it actually removing the rust and does it prevent surface rust, it sounds like it does...
It sure looks like it works better than Ospho..
This one view is pretty impressive, but I have to do a lot more before I have a good idea of what it can do. But check out that floor where it dripped! I hadn't even noticed this until when I posted the photo, but DAMN that is silver metal down there!

Brian

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  #332 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
This one view is pretty impressive, but I have to do a lot more before I have a good idea of what it can do. But check out that floor where it dripped! I hadn't even noticed this until when I posted the photo, but DAMN that is silver metal down there!

Brian
Those drips do look impressive.

How about dripping some Ospho beside those and let it set until it dries? This would be a good test.
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  #333 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 01:33 PM
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How about in a double wall configuration like in a metal head liner? Do you reccomend spraying in the cavity and flushing it out?
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  #334 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Those drips do look impressive.

How about dripping some Ospho beside those and let it set until it dries? This would be a good test.
Ospho rust converter loses strength as it is used, so it may not be a fair test, if the masterseries rust remover is reusable over and over. If it is that type product you could leave a heavily rusted and pitted piece of metal submerged in it until all the rust is gone, even in the deepest pits.
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  #335 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 02:30 PM
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How about in a double wall configuration like in a metal head liner? Do you reccomend spraying in the cavity and flushing it out?
I don't know, but that is one of the fears of these acids, they keep right on working!

Brian
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  #336 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 03:18 PM
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There are several types of acids used for different purposes but phosphoric acid is rather mild for an acid, and I don't believe it will keep working after it dries. Hydrocloric acid used for tinning auto body solder could be another story. Just the fumes of that stuff will rust your most valued treasure.
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  #337 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 03:23 PM
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How about in a double wall configuration like in a metal head liner? Do you reccomend spraying in the cavity and flushing it out?
By all means spray the cavities and if you like you can flush it. In a lot of cases we just let the prep dry on its own. I have never seen a problem with the acid attacking the final finish coat or the primer. This particular product only contains phosphoric acid. As for cavities the eeci [extreme elements corrosion inhibitor]or Inner panel protector was designed for areas like this. We can also spray the silver primer or another primer in hard-to-reach areas within a engine cleaning gun. The ECCI has been a secret for a while. It was developed for bridge work in between the plates, it's highly anti-corrosive and makes an excellent seam sealer. I'll start a separate thread on this topic later.
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  #338 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevymon View Post
Ospho rust converter loses strength as it is used, so it may not be a fair test, if the masterseries rust remover is reusable over and over. If it is that type product you could leave a heavily rusted and pitted piece of metal submerged in it until all the rust is gone, even in the deepest pits.
A fair test is whatever works easiest is the one I want to use.
If the Master series is as you describe, I'll buy that. It's pretty simple really.

Hey Brian, can you do a test for us?
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  #339 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
A fair test is whatever works easiest is the one I want to use.
If the Master series is as you describe, I'll buy that. It's pretty simple really.

Hey Brian, can you do a test for us?
Heck yes I will be doing that.

Brian
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  #340 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 05:35 PM
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Hey Brian could you please hurry up the suspense is killing me, shouldn't take more than 10 min. to do a test LOL
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  #341 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 05:53 PM
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Hey Brian could you please hurry up the suspense is killing me, shouldn't take more than 10 min. to do a test LOL
Hold your horses for goodness sakes!

Brian
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  #342 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 06:17 PM
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Hold your horses for goodness sakes!

Brian
Hey Brian, Are you done yet?........
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  #343 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevymon View Post
Ospho rust converter loses strength as it is used, so it may not be a fair test, if the masterseries rust remover is reusable over and over. If it is that type product you could leave a heavily rusted and pitted piece of metal submerged in it until all the rust is gone, even in the deepest pits.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
A fair test is whatever works easiest is the one I want to use.
If the Master series is as you describe, I'll buy that. It's pretty simple really.

Hey Brian, can you do a test for us?
I'm innocent Pugsy, honest, I don't know anything about the mastercoat series, notice the key word is (if).
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  #344 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 06:28 PM
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I'd just like to say I was using this stuff before it was ever cool
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  #345 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Pats55 View Post
Hey Brian could you please hurry up the suspense is killing me, shouldn't take more than 10 min. to do a test LOL
It will take until it dries I believe.

Brian, correct me if I'm wrong but aren't those silver patches the result from the next day after the acid dripped and dried up?
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