The Ospho Solution..(rust removal) - Page 30 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #436 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 08:08 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,006
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 708
Thanked 1,076 Times in 959 Posts
The rust I am working with laughs at the wire wheel, the wire wheel "polishes" the rust, that is about it. I don't know what is so different, but it does next to no-thing.

Soooooo, last night I tried a number of different things experimenting on this roof. And believe me, there is a reason why I am doing it on the inside first, I AM leery about the acid BIG TIME as I have had a catastrophic failure in the past.

Here is what I did in five minutes (I timed it) with my speed blaster with close to zero "overspray" of media, cleaned it up in 24 seconds (or so ).



I used a paint stripper to see if there was something there in a small area right below where I blasted it, it did nothing. There wasn't so much as a hint of paint, no discoloration of the stripper, nothing. I then took my new grinder flapper disc and hit that area, yep,I could remove the rust with it but WAY too much heat if you ask me.



I then put the towel down soaked with the MS. I know I'm cheaping out with just a little paper towel but I did keep it wet.



After a half hour....you can see a clear line where the towel was.



I did another one..




And it gave a similar result. This was after scrubbing with the scuff pad and rewetting a few times.




And another..



And scrubbing....



I am open to different ways to solve this but I am looking forward to having the cab blasted and rolling it into the booth at work and epoxy priming it!

Brian

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #437 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 08:22 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: nj
Posts: 331
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 24
Thanked 22 Times in 19 Posts
Mastercoat metal prep is designed to remove light to moderate surface rust quickly and leave a zinc phosphate film to prevent flash rust until the car is ready for primer and paint which could be a matter of months. Mastercoat Rust Remover /Descaler is much heavier stuff for moderate to heavy rust. As I said earlier I spent 20 years at shows every other weekend, telephones seven days a week and I can tell you from experience more bubbles are caused from not using metal prep than using prep. When you wire wheel rust off panel there still rust there and it will come back to bite you if you don't neutralize it with a prep.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #438 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 08:27 AM
shine's Avatar
SPI Thug
 

Last journal entry: some progress
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: bluff dale texas
Posts: 2,640
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 168 Times in 138 Posts
speed blaster with the recover bag sucks. takes way too long. outside without the bag it would go faster . i had one for years that i used on jambs and places you just couldn't sand . one of the small siphon jobs would do it quick . if you decide to have it blasted brian be sure they do not use sand of any kind. it promotes rust .
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #439 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 08:36 AM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
Believe in yourself !!!!!!
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: In My Shop..
Age: 49
Posts: 9,999
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,141
Thanked 491 Times in 365 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pats55 View Post
Mastercoat metal prep is designed to remove light to moderate surface rust quickly and leave a zinc phosphate film to prevent flash rust until the car is ready for primer and paint which could be a matter of months. Mastercoat Rust Remover /Descaler is much heavier stuff for moderate to heavy rust. As I said earlier I spent 20 years at shows every other weekend, telephones seven days a week and I can tell you from experience more bubbles are caused from not using metal prep than using prep. When you wire wheel rust off panel there still rust there and it will come back to bite you if you don't neutralize it with a prep.
Well not always true... I built a truck in 1995 and today sitting outside under a roof top Still look's the same as it did when it came out the paint booth...So that isn't always true... Other then this truck being dirty,,, It can go straite to a show today,,, Every repair made to this truck was still as good as the day we built it..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #440 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 08:44 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: nj
Posts: 331
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 24
Thanked 22 Times in 19 Posts
Apparently you must do excellent work and have luck on your side.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #441 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 08:48 AM
Too Many Projects's Avatar
A few muscle cars & a Corvair
 

Last journal entry: continued
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Stillwater, MN
Posts: 440
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 48
Thanked 207 Times in 168 Posts
Brian, have you done any research on rust converters ?? They chemically change rust into an inert material that stops the rust process and is paintable. I have been doing this for several years on my projects with good success. From what I've seen of your rust issue, it's minar and would be done in 10 minutes with a converter. I'm not dismissing your dilligence or desire to be "rust free" but even blasting will leave small particles of rust in pits that WILL return over time. The converter eliminates that.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #442 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 08:50 AM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
Believe in yourself !!!!!!
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: In My Shop..
Age: 49
Posts: 9,999
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,141
Thanked 491 Times in 365 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pats55 View Post
Apparently you must do excellent work and have luck on your side.
I wouldn't call it luck...I have way more bad luck then good luck..

Do it right the first time or don't do it at all is my way of thinking... Never had to use any acid to build a car.. And never plan on using it..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #443 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 09:25 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: nj
Posts: 331
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 24
Thanked 22 Times in 19 Posts
In 1996 what primer were you using and what state are you in?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #444 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 10:18 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,006
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 708
Thanked 1,076 Times in 959 Posts
Of course there are a lot of factors in why things rust, why they fail, and so on. Hell, I have all the sheetmetal to this truck out in the back yard. It was primed in lacquer primer and painted in lacquer paint back in 1979! It's been sitting in the back yard for 20 years un-covered and there isn't a single bubble or rust spot showing! The chrome grille, it's all rusted but I don't believe there is a single spot of rust other than along an edge or something where the primer and paint got thin. The moulding down the center of the hood has rusted through for some reason, but the rest of the hood looks good, just seriously faded lacquer paint.

For that matter, I have an old vintage gas pump out back that was sandblasted and primed in urethane "Tint Prime" from S-W 20 years ago, 20 years in the weather, again, not a spec of rust or failure showing other than the primer loosing color and turning to chalk.

When I strip the paint off am I going to find the metal all rusted, I sure as heck don't think so, if it was after all this time it certainly would be bubbling or something.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #445 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:10 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: nj
Posts: 331
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 24
Thanked 22 Times in 19 Posts
Climate has a lot to do with it. The older primers had components not available today. Move your truck to Webster Florida at the end of two years you probably wouldn't recognize it. I would put out displays with old pitted rust, that had not rerusted in years. I would leave them out overnight and be there be a new layer of rust the next morning. For me if all the major paint companies recommend metal prep,with all their experience ,and technical know-how, and research and development I'll go with their recommendations.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #446 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:12 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,006
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 708
Thanked 1,076 Times in 959 Posts
Like I said, a lot of factors.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #447 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:16 AM
shine's Avatar
SPI Thug
 

Last journal entry: some progress
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: bluff dale texas
Posts: 2,640
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 168 Times in 138 Posts
but when all the major paint companies recommend rinsing the acid off while wet you ignore that. there is nothing wrong with metal prep but to leave it to dry and paint over is not recommended by the major paint companies.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to shine For This Useful Post:
NEW INTERIORS (08-01-2013)
  #448 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 11:34 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: nj
Posts: 331
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 24
Thanked 22 Times in 19 Posts
For the hundredth time follow the data sheet ,damp rag in one hand, dry rag in the other. In 30 years I never had a problem with metal prep. About 15 years side-by-side with Capt Lee in a booth that I don't remember any issues with metal prep or Rust away.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #449 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 12:06 PM
NEW INTERIORS's Avatar
Believe in yourself !!!!!!
 

Last journal entry: 41 WILLYS FRAME
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: In My Shop..
Age: 49
Posts: 9,999
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,141
Thanked 491 Times in 365 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pats55 View Post
Climate has a lot to do with it. The older primers had components not available today. Move your truck to Webster Florida at the end of two years you probably wouldn't recognize it. I would put out displays with old pitted rust, that had not rerusted in years. I would leave them out overnight and be there be a new layer of rust the next morning. For me if all the major paint companies recommend metal prep,with all their experience ,and technical know-how, and research and development I'll go with their recommendations.
You must not know how things are in in LOUISIANA.. I don't have to put that truck in FL to test what I test.. By air here,, I can spit in the Gulf of Mexico.. I'm 55 miles north from all the salt water I need... So it's been well tested my friend... We used PPG back then and ALL body filler was done With RAGE...

As far as rust goes... We watch it happen within Hrs here..
You won't sell me any acid, So no need wasting your time trying..Have a good day..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #450 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2013, 12:12 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: nj
Posts: 331
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 24
Thanked 22 Times in 19 Posts
Well if PPG worked so great why would you consider changing? Let's get one thing straight you and I'll never agree on anything as for selling you anything I don't sell stuff anymore the rest of family does. I couldn't care less if you use acid or not. Have a great day
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 4 (0 members and 4 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Muriatic Acid Rust Removal 11echo General Rodding Tech 22 10-08-2012 10:23 AM
secrets of surface rust removal revealed Randy Ferguson Body - Exterior 178 09-24-2011 09:36 AM
Rust Removal Tips Riot Racing Body - Exterior 13 10-14-2009 05:46 PM
Rust Dissolver versus Rust Convertor? 66GMC Body - Exterior 9 11-06-2005 05:48 PM
Rust removal trick(maybe?) oldred Body - Exterior 4 06-27-2005 01:16 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:03 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.