[racer_inboston05]

Great Post! I've used diluted phosphoric acid (concrete etcher sold at lowes ) to treat rust but always neutralize post treatment going over the area with a water wet shop towel first to get the heavy stuff (i will not use a scuff pad once i have neutralized since i believe that would rub in traces of acid into the metal. I wire brush and then use denatured alchohol over the clean raw metal, then I prime.

never used ospho but now I'm curious as to the content...I know that alot of acid treatments like ppg dx579 use phosphoric acid and light detergents in their mix, however the white phosphate film that is left MUST be rinsed off or you will HAVE adhesion issues.

[cobalt327]

Welcome aboard, racer_inboston05!

I'm sure you know the difference, but for those who might not- Be REAL sure that you are using dilute phosphoric acid and NOT muriatic acid (aka hydrochloric acid)- which is also sold as a concrete treatment/cleaner.

I'd even go as far as to say it's probably better to just use ospho instead of diluting your own phosphoric acid.

[deadbodyman]

I believe thats where people get messed up,by spraying over the coating without any prep it looks like clean bare steel .... I dont know about what you are using but when I'm ready to prime I just sand with 180 then wipe with a wax & grease remover ,its how I was taught years ago I was skeptical back then but that first car is still around after 25yrs and it really looks good...the next time I run down to Fla I'll have to snap a shot of it ,The guy and I became pretty good friends durring and after I did that car.
I've never used water...Does the stuff you use protect against surface rust for months ?
The phosphoric acid content in Ospho is 45% I'm not exactly sure what percentanges are of the rest of the ingredients...
Have you ever had any adheasion problems with what your using ???
I'm sure there are other products out there that work just as well but its like bondo ,when you find one that works just the way you want it you never switch unless you have too...
BTW,I was talking to a member on the phone this morning and when I said something about using wax & grease remover properly and I explained you dont just wipe it on ,he didnt know that ...it needs to be wiped off while its still wet or it does nothing ....I'm sure glad I caught that ...sometimes the simple things can be the cause of a failure or a problem....and easily overlooked when troubleshooting....

[deadbodyman]

Originally Posted by cobalt327

Welcome aboard, racer_inboston05!

I'm sure you know the difference, but for those who might not- Be REAL sure that you are using dilute phosphoric acid and NOT muriatic acid (aka hydrochloric acid)- which is also sold as a concrete treatment/cleaner.

I'd even go as far as to say it's probably better to just use ospho instead of diluting your own phosphoric acid.

OMG YES !!!!!! theres are many kinds of acid and I dont play around with any of them except citric (not to be confussed with nitric) ....It tastes pretty good....

[crownver]

Deadbodyman, did you ever get the video on treating heavy rust done? I've been waiting for that.

[deadbodyman]

No,Sorry ,I ve been a little to busy and have very few pics of it. most everyone wants to know about surface rust...I think your the first to ask...but I can explain it and the tools I use if you have something you need to do soon...

[crownver]

When you can. I've got every kind of rust known to man, so there's no real hurry. Thanks.

[racer_inboston05]

Originally Posted by cobalt327

Welcome aboard, racer_inboston05!

I'm sure you know the difference, but for those who might not- Be REAL sure that you are using dilute phosphoric acid and NOT muriatic acid (aka hydrochloric acid)- which is also sold as a concrete treatment/cleaner.

I'd even go as far as to say it's probably better to just use ospho instead of diluting your own phosphoric acid.

oh my, Thank you very much for having me in this wonderful place everyone!!!!

OMG yes, only PHOSPHORIC acid please! and I'm not sure what the content is of the top of my head but the instructions say to dilute 50% with water and water does neautralize it. and yes stick to brands that you like...

[200horse]

I have used this company for some time to remover rust tntrustremover.com its enviormentally friendly also if that matters. In the past the have given me some deals better than what they have listed on there website

[Chopper21]

Deadbodyman, did you ever have time for that video on heavy rust treating. I have a project with more than surface rust to deal with and could use some info...thanks. Also any thoughts on POR15, etching primer, and Lizard Skin...thanks Chopper21

[deadbodyman]

Chopper ,
The only products I use on metal is Ospho and epoxy primer..I never liked rust encapsulaters and theres just no need for etching primer,the ospho etches the metal.I'm not sure what lizard skin is..
Sorry to leave you guys hanging with the heavy rust vids I've been busy with a bunch of other projects and havnt even touched the plymouth for months but I'll make a special effort and get a vid posted in the next two weeks. I really need to get these front fenders done anyways.

[Jon]

Originally Posted by Chopper21

any thoughts on POR15, etching primer, and Lizard Skin...thanks Chopper21

These wiki articles may be helpful to you:

Ceramic insulation
Rust encapsulators

[Chopper21]

Thanks for the reply deadbodyman. Is the epoxy similar to a high build in that it seals of the metal to prevent any contamination/humidity? The Lizard Skin is a (2) part sound and heat control that comes in a kit with a spray gun to do the interior/firewall/trunk etc. have'nt used it yet but seems like a good idea with many of the cars that I work on....that is they leak...and regular sound deadener and heat stuff is like a sponge

[70 ElCam]

Good thread deadbodyman. I been getting ready to use some Ospho. Hope mine turns out as well as yours have.

[shine]

lizardskin is not a 2k product. it comes in 2 gal pals ready to shoot and cleans up with water.