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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2011, 01:10 AM
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After wire wheeling treating and priming
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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2011, 01:16 AM
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I did a quick blocking to get a good idea where the worse spots were then hammered and straightened and applied polly putty because its thinner and will fill the pitts better than bondo.
Notice the spot I sanded to the metal in the last pic.
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2011, 01:25 AM
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If you want to do a quick adheation test just sand a spot to the metal and see how well it feathers back if you have an adheasion problem the featheard edge will break away insted of feathering nice and smooth.especially with 80 grit
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2011, 01:28 AM
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I guide coat my putty to make sanding a little faster and easier
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2011, 01:35 AM
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Top it off with more epoxy and its ready for sand and paint or if needed a 2k primer.One of the things I like about this SPI epoxy is you can also build it ,it just takes longer to cure than 2k's but it also a lot more chip resistant...The extra cure time is worth the wait for some jobs..
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2011, 01:42 AM
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Heres one a few years later being outside in the weather. Its still the same epoxy primer its just wet from the rain...
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2011, 08:46 AM
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Thanks - I was such a "freak" regarding treating bare metal that if I ever had small areas of sand through when doing bodywork, I'd wipe a little ospho on until I could get back on the job (sometimes not until following weekend) ... these would be the problem areas, I've learned my lesson. I'll use ospho once or twice for maintaining bare panels until I am ready to prime. I typically like to plan on shooting multiple panels at the same time as I have to plan my days around weather, neighbors, etc so the ospho helps me "maintain" some integrity until I can shoot. If the product is used correctly, it is a life saver for guys like me that take a loooong time to complete their project. I would like to use the SPI but I want to know for a fact how to correctly prep the ospho'ed metal before application. I use the PPG product because I know there are no issues with the ospho as it's basically the same as their green DX520 (phosphoric acid), and they instruct to scuff residue and shoot their epoxy primers over the prepped surface , gives me some peace of mind knowing there shouldn't be any compatibility issues here .......... I'd try SPI but they don't seem to condone and definitely don't recommend, acid preps .... while PPG does (DX520 and DP primers).
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2011, 09:13 AM
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DEAD, I love that car! Such a bada@@ rod!
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2011, 09:14 AM
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Dixie, don't fret too much about what SPI says about the acid. DBM has a proven track record for using both these products together. SPI products look appealing.
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2011, 09:39 AM
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i would suggest you call barry knives at spi before doing anything. or use another product and before using ppg i suggest you refer to the advanced refinish systems tech book. it clearly states to rinse after any of their metal preps. it also warns against applying etch too wet because of poor adhesion.
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2011, 11:00 AM
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Up til today I didn't think you could get Ospho in Canada. Just ran across this site. I'd searched before and came up with nothing.
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2011, 02:44 PM
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I will want to remove every friggin' trace of the stuff then, just to be sure but have yet to read exactly the best method. If someone could post the exact procedure it would be nice. I know DBM doesn't bother, only 180's and W&G remover then sprays. SPI site really doesn't give a step by step (obviously). I only use the stuff after a good 80 grit sanding, metal is clean, and then a fine wipe down with ospho towel in one hand and wet towel in the other, very little is used and laid on light, but does the trick. All panels will sit for days or weeks before I'm ready to shoot epoxy. I feel a red scotchbrite and garden hose would obviously do it - but it'll flash rust instantly here so ......
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2011, 04:26 PM
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Heres how I look at it ...
Theres absolutely no doubt that Ospho does a few things very well..
1) it removes rust
2) it protects bare metal from surface rust for many month while your getting ready to prime...
3) on good unrusted metal it cleans and etches

metal preps and conditioners got a bad rap so everyone just bunches them all up into a pile and says DONT USE THEM...I gotta admit these guys had me going and doubting myself ,maybe they were right ,so I did every kind of test I could think up and some that some others thought up then I did some test like the government does.In every single case my treated metal held the epoxy as good or better than metal that was just sanded and primed.If anyone can show me a problem ,Im all ears,but all anyone ever says is so and so dont recommend it or I'd rather prime rust or just prime right over the flash rust...I'm not saying its fool proof but it is pretty simple to use what I'm saying is:if you cant blast your rust this WILL work well too. even if you bring your car to a media blaster it'll have surface rust before you can prime it Ospho will protect it untill you can prime.
So If You have any doubts about the adhesion of your epoxy why dont you just sand the ospho off one panel and prime that one panel then move to the next? it very easy to see what was sanded because it looks much much cleaner then when sanded off than untreated ,sanded metal....Consider the Ospho a cheap EZ to sand off way to protect your metal kinda like rattle can primer but ez to remove with some sanding..its a lot cheaper too 15.00 a qt
Not every car gets tore down and put on a rotiserry and in a booth either and thats the only way I'd media blast a car Ospho is just right for everything else...I'm not going anywhere ,if anyone has any trouble using it just say so Ill help you get it right....
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2011, 05:11 PM
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i trust in the tech manuals and the mfgr recommendations. bottom line is you go by their system or you are on your own. acid must be neutralized by rinsing. each one of my tech manuals reads the same. using acid is nothing new but there is a right and wrong way to use it. use in a sheet metal shop to prevent rust and use for etch in a paint shop are two different worlds.
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2011, 05:35 PM
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I've heard that somewhere before.

FOLLOW THE TECH SHEETS! It's all right there.

Brian
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