[Impala 283]

I have a 67 Impala 283, Turboglide, stock, it was dying when I came to a stop so I replaced wires, plugs, Distro cap, rotor and timed it. In park it sets perfectly, when I put it in gear it falls out of time and runs worse that it did before I began the process, last time it didn't start at all, that was 3+ yrs ago. I thought about replacing the timing chain and switching over to and HEI or replacing the points distro with an aftermarket one??

I have asked a million people, no one seems to have an answer that I haven't tried yet.

Any direction would be greatlly appreciated.

Sincerely

Bob

a.k.a., Impala 283

[johnsongrass1]

Float levels?

[DoubleVision]

First thing I would do is throw the points distributor away and go with a HEI, make sure you run a 12 volt source to it, since it won`t run too well off the 6 volt source the points used. afterwards start the car and set the spark timing, then connect the vacuum advance to a manifold vacuum source, or one that pulls vacuum at idle, see if the problem persists, if so look elsewhere, be it fuel system and etc.

[Impala 283]

To DoubleVision and johnsongrass1,

Thanks, I also forgot to mention that I had the original Rochester 2barrel carb rebuilt also. I also thought it may be a fuel problem, maybe I should also go with a new carb and intake, any suggestions, I'm looking for something that will just get me from here to there in style, not looking to set any records.

Thanks again for the input.

Impala 283

[johnsongrass1]

The HEI isn't helping.

[BstMech]

Have you checked anything for proper operation/specs, or are you just taking shots in the dark?

Have you checked the float levels?

Have you checked the slop in the timing chain?

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Have you checked the condition of the points?

Have you checked the dwell or gapped the points to specs?

Is the choke sticking?

Etc....etc.?

There's a lot of things that will give the symptoms you describe. You'll be pretty pi$$ed when you go throwing a bunch of money at it for new carb/intake ect., just to find out it's something like a brake booster leaking and causing the idle problem.

You should check a few of the things mentioned and get back to us when you have a little more info to offer. It'll help everyone to help you better.

[jimfulco]

Does it still have the original timing chain & sprockets? The original cam sprockets were plastic & were prone do wearing out real fast.

[poncho62]

Check for vacuum leaks.........................

[docvette]

Hi Doc Here

Reading your post like, twice, Are you saying it runs ~OK UNTIL ~you put it into gear?

Then it does....??? Backfire? Stumble, no power??.....

I be thinkin' here...(here goes another Endorphin based headache......) If It does Idle fine in park....but won't run in any gear...look at the big Vacuum line going to the tranny, Should go to a modulator Valve...Maybe it's Demented. ...(usually though when the Diaphragms go, they suck tranny fluid into the induction system...Ergo, tons ~o~ White smelly smoke...)

If it's like, really hard to start,... runs like crap in a can ... and just gets worse in gear, and may or may not pull itself....I'd Be lookin' At the following...

Valves/Rings....Do a compression test...see if each Cylinder is up to spec. and all 8 within tolerance to each other...I.E. 6 at 170 and 2 at 100...Do the same test "WET" shoot a little oil in the Cylinders and note the differences. Any low or erratic Readings I'b thinkin' Bout some valves...

If that's KEWL... Look at the Valve timing...Has it Jumped??
In fact here, I'd just replace the Chain and Gears anyway...on an engine that old...Go to a steel Gear....(old ones were phenolic <---hope your troubleshoot is easier than tryin' to spell that word...)Chain has probably stretched and if not the problem...soon will be.

If that's like, All Good...Vacuum leaks... Check all hoses vacuum related and where they go to...You can get a little hand pump with like, all kinds ~o~ Goodies with it for pluggin' lines and general "Stuff" For about 15 Bucks at the local Auto parts store..fix or eliminate any leaks....

You Say You replaced the Rochester, Did you use a new baseplate gasket? and is the carb Tight to the manifold? and not warped....

Check the Intake Manifold Bolts For proper Torque (You can check it for leaks by ,If you can get it to run...Spray Carb cleaner around the Manifold To Head area and around the Carb to manifold Area, It shouldn't speed up or change at all.)

Failing Fuel Pump...
Usually these are go~no go items but some times they will not pull enough pressure to fill the fuel bowl in the Carb...Get a pressure tester and check it...

Contaminated Fuel...
If like , the car sat for 3 years you probably have something that resembles dirty kerosene with "Gators" in it...at least the gas won't have the punch it once did...dump it and put in new clean fuel.

You Say you "Tuned It up"

are the points set properly? Check them,

Is the Rotor Good, Clean and making good contact to the cap?

Is the Cap KEWL?, no cracks or anything inductive or metallic "sprayed" around inside it?

Are the Plug wires in the proper order? 18436572...?

Is number 1 on the cap..really number 1? And not 8 or 2 with the distributor slammed against one or the other stop?

Is the Coil Good (not failing under heat) has the proper shunt resistor, and is hooked up correctly?(the - goes toward the points...)

Is the Suppressor Capacitor OK and not partial shorting through it (I'd just get another, there only a few bucks)

The HEI is a good Bet, I'd do it even if it ran good..so you might just do that anyway...This will Eliminate all the tune up troubleshooting.

Well, That where you can start (like yeah, right got any more good news like maybe I'm gettin' a tax audit?) You should find the anomaly within one or more of those steps..

Hope it helps...
Let me know how goes the war..

Doc