[Blaster]

I would like any advise/opinions on completing this. I am mainly concern with getting the new piece in SAME location, because this a critical area for the door, front fender and hood alignment. Attachment #1 shows the old panel, and the recess area for the front fender and hood. Attachment #2 is a catalog picture of the outer cowl panel. Thanks for any input.....Blaster

[willys36@aol.com]

That does get a little confusing working in three dimensions. The first thing you should do is be sure the cab is not tweaked due the damage to that panel or other road scars. Take a lot of comparative measurements to be sure the cab is square and those dents ar the only problem. Next be sure the door an hood fit the body well. If they do, you replacement panel will go in much easier.

Assuming all above goes well, cut out the offending panel with an abrasive saw, saws-all, drilling rivets, etc., until it is down to clean margins. The new panel will need some massaging to get it to fit properly, guaranteed. Don't be dismayed when you first hold it up to the cab and it looks like it was made for a 2005 Nissan PU instead of yours. It will become obvious where you need to bend and hammer to get the thing to comply. Once you are happy with the fit, tack it in place with a minimum number of tacks. You will likely need to remove and install it more than once until are happy with the fit. Once it is hung in place, try the door and hood again to insure they fit perfectly. Don't rush this process. I find it best to come back the next day after a good night's sleep instead of rushing and welding it up after a 12 hour marathon day in the shop when my brain isn't that clear.

[Blaster]

Willys36, Thanks for the reply. Prior to disassembly the hood and fender was in alignment, the door gap at the front was slightly off (compared to the undamaged passenger side). What I gather from your recommendations: (1) it might be better for me to wait until I have the cab mounted back to the frame and pretty much assembled to facilitate fender, door and hood mounting for test fitting prior to final weld up? (2) take measurements of it (door to leading edge cowl panel) on both the damage and undamaged side for reference? (3) Plan on a long day or days......Again Thanks for your reply.

[willys36@aol.com]

Originally Posted by Blaster

Willys36, Thanks for the reply. Prior to disassembly the hood and fender was in alignment, the door gap at the front was slightly off (compared to the undamaged passenger side). What I gather from your recommendations: (1) it might be better for me to wait until I have the cab mounted back to the frame and pretty much assembled to facilitate fender, door and hood mounting for test fitting prior to final weld up? (2) take measurements of it (door to leading edge cowl panel) on both the damage and undamaged side for reference? (3) Plan on a long day or days......Again Thanks for your reply.

1) Definitely. The fewer 'sky-hooks' you need to use the better.
2) Definitely again. There is no substitute for lots of measurements in doing this type of work.
3) This is hot rodding after all!

[MARTINSR]

With out a doubt, you MUST trial fit the door (with it aligned properly). The fender is not a big issue. If you to all the way up resplacing the whole piece than the hood will have to be trial fit as well.

To do all this the cab has to be mounted on the frame with the rad support in place.


I personally would do his before you even start trimming the new piece. Then, after you have started fitting it, you could remove the door and tack it in place. Then hang the door again. Before the final welding you should KNOW the door will fit well.

Brian

[Blaster]

Just the type of info needed. I was some what nervous about posting this issue, because of being able to explain in writing my concerns. Thanks...