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Old 09-03-2005, 07:32 PM
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over heating

i have a 65 nova that i just got or is almost done. it was a drag car when i got it but i kept the 400 in it. it is bored out .30 over with a 9.6 comp,forged aluminum pistons, 110cc chambers 2.25intake/1.88 exhaust,hydraulic roller cam,forged steel crank. but for some reason shes running hot around 250 or 260 depends on how hot it is outside. i put a new high flow water pump, new fan, 160 thermostat, and radiator 4 core. what else am i missing or is this normal the 400
it has right around 550 hp anything would be great thanks
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Old 09-03-2005, 08:04 PM
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I think you meant 402 big block. With 500 horses, It`s not likely you`ll keep it cool on the street. I`d use a 190 degree thermostat, this will allow the coolant to radiate longer in the radiator, I`d also add a couple of bottles of redline water wetter.
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Old 09-03-2005, 08:47 PM
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If you're not using a fan shroud I suggest you install one. It will make a big difference. If you're running 250 - 260 it won't last very long.
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Old 09-03-2005, 10:12 PM
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put a 190* thermostat in it , water wetter, and you'll be ok. 250 - 260* it'll be ok. what mixture water - antifreeze are you running in it? it should be like 50/50, and you should be ok. plus check to see what timing you have... if its too far advanced you'll over heat too. retard it a little and you'll be ok....
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Old 09-04-2005, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97Z28
250 - 260* it'll be ok
I STRONGLY disagree! Anyone with any sense starts to worry when the temp gets above 220. Although at 250-260 it may be OK for a while, reliability will go right in the toilet and you'll never know when it's going to come apart. Two things will kill an engine quicker than anything else, one is lack of lubrication and the other is excessive HEAT.
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Old 09-04-2005, 10:09 AM
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Thermostat

Make sure it is a good thermstat, especially with that high flow water pump. You need a high flow thermostat that is not effected buy internal cooling system flow presures.
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Old 09-04-2005, 10:12 AM
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X-Race Car?

Where are the timing events?
Initial, total and where is it reaching total, are you running a vacuum unit on the distributor?
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Old 09-04-2005, 11:38 AM
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you also might want to figure out where the block came from. most drag-only blocks had the water jackets filled up & sealed to make a stronger bottom end. remember, drag-only engines only had to run for at most a minute or two, including staging, putting around the to & from the pits, and the actual run.
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Old 09-04-2005, 11:53 AM
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1. Since you stated this was used for racing, make sure someone didn't do a partial fill of the block to stabilize it. If it is partially filled, good luck keeping it cool on the street. (looks like ser2real beat me to this one)

2. Change the thermostat to a high flow style as suggested. Anything from 160* to 190* should be fine. I'd go for the 180* to get the oil up to temp versus what a 160* t-stat would do (oil too cold will cause sludge). Disregard comments about holding the water in the radiator longer. That theory has been discussed here many times and it just doesn't seem to die. Read this if you are curious. Stewart Components

3. Make sure the internal cooling system is flushed until it is clean. Are you sure the radiator isn't partially plugged? If you can't tell, have a radiator shop look at it.

4. Make sure to blow out the radiator externally, removing all of the bugs and any blockage.

5. As mentioned above, a good fan and proper fitting shroud.

6. Are you sure that the water pump is the proper roatation (i.e., use std rotation for V-belt and reverse rotation for serpentine belt)?

As stated earlier 250* - 260* is too hot for this engine and will degrade its useful life. You need to find the problem and get it fixed. You should be able to keep this engine below 200* under most circumstances if the cooling system is functioning properly.
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Old 09-04-2005, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
I think you meant 402 big block. With 500 horses, It`s not likely you`ll keep it cool on the street. I`d use a 190 degree thermostat, this will allow the coolant to radiate longer in the radiator, I`d also add a couple of bottles of redline water wetter.

------also keeps the coolant in the engine longer, letting it get hotter. AMEN to Stewart link... read it

1) you gotta have more air flow.... period
2) you might need more coolant flow// check water pump drive ratio !!!!!
3) too slow of timing makes it run hot
4) you might need vacuum advance in the midrange

I'd bet money you still have a crappy fan or one improperly installed probably in a crappy shroud..... just guessing.....
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Old 09-04-2005, 08:01 PM
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over heating

thank you guys, i know that it has a crappy fan shroud for sure that came with the car. along with dual electric fans but changed them to a clutch fan im going to be putting pics here soon so u can take a look that it. im going to do a little more work with the timing and things that u suggested ill stay in touch
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Old 09-04-2005, 09:07 PM
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over heating

well im running a 60/40 mix for cooling cuda was asking if i have a vacuum on the distributor no its a mechanical advance dual point. as far as the timing goes still working on it do u think i should change the over to a vacuum distributor? ill get to guys later on everything else thank you
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Old 09-04-2005, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delsman
well im running a 60/40 mix for cooling cuda was asking if i have a vacuum on the distributor no its a mechanical advance dual point. as far as the timing goes still working on it do u think i should change the over to a vacuum distributor? ill get to guys later on everything else thank you

Not Yet..... K.I.S.S.
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Old 09-05-2005, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delsman
well im running a 60/40 mix for cooling cuda was asking if i have a vacuum on the distributor no its a mechanical advance dual point. as far as the timing goes still working on it do u think i should change the over to a vacuum distributor? ill get to guys later on everything else thank you
If you're driving it on the street I would suggest you go to vacuum advance. Chevy small blocks seem to be especially effected by the lack of vacuum advance and that might be part of your problem. Although you get fantastic reaction with mechanical advance on the street it will run cooler with vacuum advance.
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Old 09-05-2005, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centerline
I STRONGLY disagree! Anyone with any sense starts to worry when the temp gets above 220. Although at 250-260 it may be OK for a while, reliability will go right in the toilet and you'll never know when it's going to come apart. Two things will kill an engine quicker than anything else, one is lack of lubrication and the other is excessive HEAT.
Geez, no kidding huh. Can't believe he had it running at those temperatures. I would have a heart attack if it even climbed to 230* . I'd definately agree with xntrik, airflow is the key. Toss those dual electric fans(most likely crappy aftermarket fans like flex a lite) and go ahead and do what you said b4 by going to a clutch fan setup w/ shroud. You'll definately see quite a bit of improvement. Make sure your radiator fins are exposed as much as possible allowing air to flow through (such as extended mounting areas that are blocking the radiator, not the grill). Also, check if your waterpump pulley is the correct size like xntrik has said and not being underdriven. Otherwise, your setup seems ok. Keep us up to date on how you do after you switch to a clutch fan setup or whatever timing tricks you do. Gl
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