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Old 05-14-2003, 10:27 PM
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Post Overdrive...

Has anyone ever used a gear vendor's OD?
Is it worth it?
I wonder if it isn't just cheaper to get an AOD.

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Old 05-14-2003, 11:36 PM
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I am considering one for my COE. They overdrive by 22%. Run about $2400.00 . You can split them between gears. so instead of 3 speed auto, you have a 6 speed. They have a good track record. I have studied up on the web consering them.
Just a matter of money for me. I have had 2 700r4 trans that both failed. They were cool while they lasted though.
2 penny`s from me.
Slider in wa.
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Old 05-15-2003, 05:00 AM
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The Gear Vendors unit is a HD version of the British Lay****-DeNormanville design. It's similar to the old Borg Warner OD found in many 50s and early 60s cars, but is hydraulicly controlled instead of electric. BW used a huge solenoid to put the trans in OD -- break an electric wire or have a connection come lose at an inoportune time... plus it usually had an automatic cut-in -- the GV unit can be manually controlled. I haven't used a GV unit, but have experience with the BW and LD units. GV actually bought a surplus of the units from AMC (they used them in 72-74 on their mid size Hornets) and converted them to mate to any transmission. They later acquired manufacturing rights and made the unit tougher. I've seen them used in big motor homes, so they will take a lot of punishment. The old BW units should never be used with first gear, the AMC LD units were wired to only work in top gear. The GV unit was strengthend to be used in any gear, including first (where it receives the most strain -- I wouldn't use one with first gear, but would split any other gear -- less strain if the vehicle is already moving).
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Old 05-15-2003, 01:02 PM
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I have a friend who has one behind a Turbo 400 in a 3500 series Chevrolet Dually. He pulls a 35 foot camper with it. He bought the truck used and has put 50 thousand miles on it with no problems. The truck shows 122 thousand on the odometer. We do not know when the GV unit was installed. He got the truck at a IRS sale.


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Old 05-15-2003, 08:36 PM
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Man i got to get one of those. I think i am gettinbg a neg-7 mpg!!!!
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Old 05-16-2003, 10:26 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by farna:
[QB]I've seen them used in big motor homes,QB]<hr></blockquote>

Cool. Could that work on my truck?
I have a '72 F-250 4x2 so there is plenty of room between the C6 and the Dana 60. It actually has 3 U-joints (one is only for flex) and 2 bearing rings.
I have wondered about putting a transfer case in backwards. Then using it's HIGH-LOW shifting to act as an O.D.
Of course it is a long shot, but maybe that wold work?
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Old 05-17-2003, 05:36 AM
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Yes ,they make them for your truck. Look up Gear Venders site. They make them for 2 and 4 wheel drive. they can be used on most of todays vechicles.
Spendy, but allmost bullet proff, from what i am reading.
Slider in Wa.
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Old 05-17-2003, 11:06 PM
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Yeah, but that is the problem. Right now Gear Vendor's O.D. costs more than my truck is worth.
Here is an idea, I heard that some new car tourque converters can produce a greater than 1:1 ratio.
As for where I heard this...I can't remember. #@!%
Anyone else heard of such a thing?
<img src="confused.gif" border="0">
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Old 05-19-2003, 04:57 AM
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Older mid 70s torque converters produce more than a 1:1 ratio, but they slip and casue a lot of heat. You only get 1:1 when the converter is locked up. Not a good idea!
But you do have another choice that's more doable in a backyard/home shop. Install another transmission behind the original. An old heavy duty three speed works best (small and cheap!). you can get one from nearly any 60s car or truck, back when three speed on the column was standard. This doesn't help you as far as overdrive, it is really an under drive. But you can put a very high gear ratio in and shift the second tranny out for high gear. Many who do this only use second and third in the three speed -- first and reverse can even be removed from the case. This prevents any unwanted shifts. Since 2/3 is on the same shift fork, only one shift rod is needed. I've seen people use a heavy duty cable mounted under the dash instead of a rod (auto shift cable with a knob mounted on one end?). You just need to see what the gear ratios in the tranny are (well, third is 1:1!) and plan your rear axle gear accordingly. This works great if you wanted to run a lower gear but have a stock high ratio (say you want to run a 4.11 but have a factory 2.73 or 3.08). Keep the factory gear and run the second tranny in second gear for the low gear effect, shift it into high for highway cruising.
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Old 05-19-2003, 01:22 PM
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Hmmm...I suppose that could work. I do have 2 drive shafts, since it is so far between the C6 and the 4.10 Dana.
If I put in a 2nd transmission, would the differential need to go to a 3.54? Or go in the other direction?
Too many gears, too much math!
Thanks.
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Old 05-20-2003, 05:04 AM
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Red, what axle ratio do you have now? Find your current low gear ratio by finding the ratios of your transmission, then multiplying by the ratio of the rear axle. Find the ratios with the second transmission by multiplying what you get by whatever the ratio of the second tranny is. I'd stick with using just 2 and 3 in the second tranny. In third the original ratios will be the same, so only 2nd (in the second tranny) will make a difference. You might need to go down to 3.08 or something like that!
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Old 05-20-2003, 11:33 AM
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Talking

I looked on google and this is the 1st site it came up with :
<a href="http://www.lightruck.com/dr_gearratios.htm" target="_blank">http://www.lightruck.com/dr_gearratios.htm</a>
It seems to be exactally what is needed as far as the numbers are concerned.
I'll run the calculations and see what it yeilds.
Thanks
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